|
|
Part IV : ATV Basic Maintenance : Radiator , Water Pump, Cables , Levers , Switches , Batteries , Head Light and Tail LightsAug 12 '00 Write an essay on this topic.PART IV GENERAL VEHICLE MAINTENANCE: This will be the final part to my series on ATV maintenance. In my previous parts I have discussed all the major maintenance that should be performed on an ATV to ensure both accurate running and adequate safety on the riders part. I will finish off with some very basic maintenance tips on topics that were left out of the original three segments. RADIATOR AND WATER PUMP: For those of you with machines that are liquid cooled there is yet another system that will need maintenance performed on it. This system is the cooling system and consists on a radiator ,hoses ,water pump and antifreeze. This system is used to aide in heat distribution of the engine and helps keep it running at tolerable heat rates. Basic operation of the system is that the water pump usually located internally in the crank case rotates a small fan looking device within itself. The Device then pushes anti freeze from the radiator into the head of the engine. The head of the engine has holes in the side of it and the anti freeze passes through those chamber absorbing the heat of the engine. The anti freeze is then pumped back into the radiator where the fins of the radiator attempt to disperse the heat and cool down the anti freeze once more. The process continues constantly while the machine is running. The first thing that you should do is always check that the radiator fluid is full within the radiator. Improper amounts of fluid could potentially if low enough cause the engine to overheat. Check all hoses ( in most cases 2 and an overflow) for cracks , holes and leaks. If any of these things are present replace the hose or hoses in question. If fluid is observed coming out of the top of the engines head or around the water pump area than more than likely you have a defective gasket that will need to be replaced. Defective gaskets can lead to lose of anti freeze and compression. Where bad enough gaskets they may cause the machine not to start. About every other month carefully clean the radiator. If the engine seems to be over heating constantly but everything else checks good than it is possible that you have a bad water pump. IF the pump is not spinning than the antifreeze is not being moved or cooled. It is just sitting there heating up like boiling water. Bugs and debris can build up on it and in effect cause the heat dissipation rate to suffer. Thus the more garbage on the radiator the less it effectively cools. Remember there are two side to every radiator. ****WARNING**** never take off the radiator cap when the machine has been running. Pressure builds up as well as heat and when the cap is removed and the engine warm the anti freeze could potentially squirt out of the whole and cause burns. CABLES: Cables are the most commonly over looked aspects of ATV maintenance. However since cables are used to operate your brakes and clutch assembly (where applicable) they are a major part that should not be ignored. Cables should be inspected for damage periodically. Torn cables will allow moisture inside and could potentially cause the cable to seize up due to rust. Cables that are torn or the sheathing is scraped off should be replaced to avoid this. They can if still operable be temporarily "bandaged" for a short time. If a cable is literally broken and you only have either your front or back brakes and not both, Do not neglect this and only use the one working set of breaks. This could lead to physical injury and should be replaced immediately. Cables are relatively inexpensive when it comes to parts in the ATV world and if they are broken the part the are connected to does not function. Lubricate your cables with approved grease before every ride. Make sure that you use an applicator that allows you to stick it in the cable and spray some down inside. The more preventative maintenance done here the longer your cables will last you. And nothing is worse than being out on a joyful sunny after noon ride and your clutch cable breaking. LEVERS: Levers should get equal attention as the cables that are hooked to them. Your brake , clutch, gas, and choke levers are all important features that you need to operate your machine. Take care to lubricate these as well. This will allow them to move more freely , thus minimizing the stress that your hands will endure trying to move a half stuck lever. If these levers become so built up with grime or to dry they can in fact bind up on you and either not fully release or never fully depress. This could in turn lead to costly repairs in the future. If the clutch lever and cable stick the clutch may never fully engage or disengage. This is similar to riding the clutch and will eventually burn out the clutch on you. The you will have to replace the clutch. If the brake lever and cables do this, again they will either never fully engage or disengage. If they never fully engage the machine may or may not stop when you expect it to. If they never fully disengage then the brakes are ever so slightly , but constantly on prematurely wearing out you pads or shoes. If the gas lever sticks , well I don't really have to explain this one to you guy do I? If the choke lever sticks than the choke could either like all the rest not disengage fully causing the machine to run to rich and possibly causing constant stalling issues. Or never fully engage the choke thus causing problems with cold weather starting. SWITCHES: Most modern ATV's come equipped with numerous switches and gauges. Switches are used to operate lights, motor on/off position , chokes(possibly) , motor start(electric), and some even control the shifting of the machine with today's advances. These switches are a little bit harder to maintain as they are electrical. However in most cases they are accessible or can be disassembled. Switches are normally hollow within the enclosures that house them except for the required circuitry to run what ever device they are associated with. The ATV manufactures do not always do the best job at insulating these housings so that moisture and debris cannot enter, thus a internal build up of moisture and garbage can occur. About once every six months you may want to open the housing and clean out an residue within. Use a cleaning solution such as spray type isopropyl alcohol that will evaporate. Clean any oxidation or rust off of electrical solder connections brushing softly and carefully with a wire brush or sand paper. One tip that I know sounds crazy but seems to work really well in the applications I have tried it with is as follows. Open the housing that contains the electrical circuitry. Apply a thing cost of clear silicone on the side of the circuit board that exposes the soldered joints using a small piece of plastic. Do not apply this to thick or it will be a pain to work with at later dates if need arises. Also carefully apply it to the holes where the box mounts around (usually the handle bars) and remount the box. By sealing the unit with the silicone more moisture and debris is prevented from entering the housing. In turn this slows down the damage the elements potentially play on the circuitry with in. ***WARNING*** be careful as you are playing with electronics and could potentially damage something by doing this wrong. BATTERY: For those of you that have machines with electric start and they are powered by small 12v batteries usually located under the seat, here are some basic battery tips. These batteries are small and do not hold much of a charge. Although you could potentially have a good battery for 2 -3 years, I suggest taking the battery to a local shop or garage at least once a year and have a load test performed on it. The test when done will tell you the batteries approximate life span. ATV batteries usually have the wires that go to the starter connected by a bolt that screw down into the batteries terminals. Just like the switches above only more so in this case the battery is prone to moisture and debris damage. If the battery terminals become to corroded from the battery acid and electrical current passing through , it could potentially cause the machine not to start. These terminals can however be cleaned. Check periodically to see if a mint green colored build up is starting to form on the posts. When it does remove the screws holding the cables on the battery and replace them with new, they are cheap and easier to replace in this case than repair. Then use a wire brush carefully to remove the build up on the surface of the post and the best you can on the threads the screws thread into. ATV batteries much like cars over prolonged usage can become depleted of battery acid with in the cells. This again can cause the machine not to start and the battery not to hold a charge. But this does not necessarily mean the battery is dead either. There are normally little six plastic bolts colored yellow across the face of the battery. These are removable and within lies the battery acid. If the acid becomes low the above situation can occur. Replace the fluid with in with battery acid refill kits you can obtain at the local car parts store. If you want to be cheap you can use water in place of the acid but mind you the water can freeze in cold temperatures and eventually yield the battery garbage. One last tip on batteries that I have for you is that when they are new and you first apply the cables to them , take something like spray paint (any type) and after the connection is made and tight, spray the bolts cable and posts. This helps to seal the connection and slows the rate of corrosion as well. There are actual products sold for this purpose in particular , but I did not see any difference between them and standard spray paint. ***WARNING*** Battery acid can be potentially dangerous and cause burns and death if ingested. Wash thoroughly when done and take care to avoid getting it on you(wear chemical resistant gloves) HEADLIGHTS AN TAILLIGHTS: Not much to say here , if your lights are out replace them. As you know they can cause you to have difficulties seeing in the dark without proper lighting. Also the lights are there to allow other riders to be aware of your presence. If they don't work another rider may be almost on top of you before they realize you are even there. One down fall to a 2 stroke machine with no battery. If the machine is off so are the lights. If it dies on the trail in the dark you are simply in the dark, so if you are in this situation with this type of machine, I suggest packing a flashlight with you when you are riding at night so you do not get stuck in the dark. CONCLUSION: A well maintained machine will provide both years of enjoyment as well as safety. Most people will not adhere to all of the guidelines I have set forth , but for those of you a little less experienced in this matter I hope to have opened your mind to things to check and answers to possible problems or concerns.  |
| Read all comments (1)|Write your own comment |
