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I feel so usedJun 06 '00 Write an essay on this topic.I've spent the morning reading wonderful reviews detailing the tricks and tips for getting the best deal on a used car. All I've read discuss dealers and car lots. For many of us, this advice doesn't "do it"–we buy privately. Perhaps we do so because prices tend to be lower (and more fluid) in private sales, or perhaps we're in the market for a specific make and model that isn't commonly found at dealerships. So I'd like to share my tips for getting the best used car for the money in a private sale. Know the Blue Book value! This gives you a starting point, a rule of thumb for haggling. Ask to see where the vehicle is usually parked–look for evidence of fluid leaks. Check to see if the car has been running recently–a warm engine is a red light! The owner may be trying to mask a serious problem, such as bad rings or valve stem seals. Ask to come back when the car is cool. You're looking for blue/bluish-grey smoke from the tail pipe upon startup. A warm car isn't going to give you an accurate idea. If the car cold starts with a puff of blue smoke, walk away. Repairs may be very costly, and a smoke belching vehicle isn't going to pass Emissions testing. Also look for white, cloudy smoke emitted from the tail pipe–this can be indicative of a coolant leak. While coolant system problems are common in older vehicles (and usually inexpensive to repair, provided they're caught early), it only takes one serious overheating incident to warp heads, crack the head gasket, etc. Ask if the vehicle has ever been in an accident–look for evidence of crimping, dents, or folds in the body. Ask WHY–why is the seller selling? Ask HOW the vehicle has been used! Is it a "to work and home" vehicle, or has it been used for frequent long distance travel? Drive it–alone–ask the owner for the keys–trade your own keys and leave your car if necessary. You need to have this car to yourself. Why? A bunch of reasons. Drive that car out of the owner's sight and pop that hood!–know what you're looking for. How does the engine look? Is there a heavy coating of burned oil? Is there a coating of oil on the inside of the hood? How does the air filter look? Excessive dirt or oil can indicate a problem. Check the oil–is it thick, black, nasty? Could be indicative of a less than stellar maintenance history. Is it milky or cloudy? You've got gasoline in the oil–not a good thing. Is there yellowish gunk around the oil cap? Coolant leak to the oil. How about the transmission fluid? Is it a nice burgundy, or is it more brownish? Are there metal flakes in the fluid? Brownish transmission fluid with metal flakes could indicate a future of expensive repairs. Slide beneath the car–how's the oil pan? Any obvious fluid leaks? While you're under there, how do things look? Is there a lot of corrosion? Any obviously new parts? Drive like crazy–okay, don't wreck it, but check it. Brake hard–any pulling? Do the brakes squeal, grind, or "stutter?" Are they mushy or overly soft? Accelerate hard–any hesitation? Lugging, bucking? Take a few hard turns–any clicking, clunking, grinding, or snapping/jerking of the wheel? Again, any of these things could be indicative of costly upcoming repairs. Drive at varying speeds–is there a shimmy or a wiggle to the front end? Could be tie rods–a fairly cheap fix at home, but a potentially costly repair in a shop. Drive in varying traffic situations--from highway to bumper to bumper. Use your ears! How does that engine SOUND? Does it purr like a kitten, or does it seem to be missing a beat? Does the car vibrate heavily at idle? Any rattling noises? Sound like there's a Coke can full of socks in the manifold? How a car sounds can really clue you in when it comes to mechanical problems. Pay close attention. Drive long enough and far enough to know how hot the car runs–I didn't do this with my truck, and wound up with a truck that is prone to vapor lock when it heats up. Ever spent 4 1/2 hours stranded on a dirt road in the mountains of Idaho? I have. Drive on a variety of grades–don't just drive around the block. Find some nice, steep hills. Does the vehicle lose power on a steep grade? Does it buck? Do you find yourself wondering if you're going to "make the grade," even though you've got the accelerator to the floor, and you're in the lowest gear possible? Look for another vehicle–this one's likely got problems you don't want to buy into. If it's a manual, do a fair amount of shifting–if there's a grind to shifting (that isn't caused by you), or the car seems unwilling to shift smoothly, you may want to skip this one. Clutch repairs can be very costly. Check those tires!–no, don't kick ‘em. Look at the tread. Specifically, look at the pattern of wear. Is it uneven? Is one side far more worn than the other? Does the wear only seem to affect the inner or outer tread? Could be a problem–steering box, alignment, suspension. Could be cheap, could be very costly. Look at the body!–are there any "bubbly" spots? Could be indicative of a bad Bondo job with a repaint. Look in the wheel wells and along the rocker panels. If the car's a rust bucket, those are the spots most likely to go. Check the lights–brake lights, tail lights, headlights, signals. A new light isn't too costly, but a new turn signal switch can be pricey. If you're missing a light, find out why. Check the emergency/parking brake–just pop that puppy in drive and engage the parking brake. Does it work? I forgot to check this on my Camaro, and wound up having to replace the parking brake in order to pass inspection. Ouch. Check the "piddling" things!–on a clear midsummer day, you may not worry about the heater or windshield wipers. Come January, your shivering self may wish you'd paid closer attention. Check the heat, A/C, horn, wipers, rear window defrost (if there is one), and check that all "keyed" locks work. Check the power stuff! If the vehicle has power windows, power locks, etc., check them all! Now, think hard! Is the apparent condition of the car in keeping with the age and odometer reading? A 2 year old vehicle shouldn't have new shocks and struts, a 3 year old vehicle shouldn't have 96,000 miles on it. Look for inconsistencies. I know we all like to jump at new parts, but sometimes those new parts indicate less than kind treatment of a vehicle. If a vehicle has been driven so hard that, at 2 years old, it already needed new U-joints, the rest of that baby is just begging to break. A car that has had 32,000 miles a year put on it is more likely to give you repair headaches than one with a more sedate 15,000 a year. Okay. You've gone over the car in such a way as to give you an idea of whether or not it's a keeper. Time to make a deal? Hardly. It's time to take the car back to the owner, express your interest, and ask if you may take the car to your mechanic for a look-see. Also time to ask for a maintenence record, if one exists. If the owner has nothing to hide, he/she will not object to this. Call your mechanic, make an appointment, and get that car down there. What are you there for? Share your observations!–do you suspect a problem? Tell your mechanic, and tell him/her why you're suspicious. Uneven tread wear, pulling when braking or accelerating, clicking, clunking–tell them so. Ask them to take a look. If there is a problem, have a repair estimate written up. Emissions test! If your area requires emissions testing, have it done now–it's inexpensive, and can save you a world of hurt in the long run. If the vehicle passes, great–if not, ask your mechanic how much it would cost to bring it up to snuff. Get it in writing. Inspection!–If your area requires inspection, ask your mechanic to make sure the vehicle will pass. If it will not, ask what it will cost to bring it to standard. Get it in writing. An all-around check–brakes, suspension–anything your mechanic feels might be amiss. Ask him/her to drive the vehicle. Please remember, your mechanic is not psychic. He/she may miss something, and predicting future problems is iffy, but better to have their educated opinion on the vehicle. Now, it's time to haggle. Does anything need repair? Will the car pass emissions/inspection? If there are problems, let the owner know, and tell them how much repair will cost. Show them the documentation. Insist that they either repair the problem themselves, or knock the cost of repair off the asking price (this only holds true if the asking price is at around Blue Book–if it's drastically below book, the owner has likely already taken these problems into consideration) . I've never had an owner refuse to subtract the cost of needed repairs. The oil pan on my truck, the oil pan on my Mustang, a rusted out tail pipe on my Camaro–all were problems I found before purchase, and had the repair costs knocked off the price. This isn't a comprehensive list, but it's a good place to start. I've had pretty good luck with used vehicles, and I have no doubt that doing the above is part of the reason why. I hope this helps someone. **NOTE** If you have any tips, any "to look for" absolutes, please leave a note in the comments section. I'm always looking for advice, and I'd like very much to include your tips in this Epinion.  |
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