Mind the Gap: Travelling via London Underground
Mar 15 '01
The Bottom Line The underground is the VERY BEST WAY TO GET AROUND in London. A good map and an underground pass, and the city gates open up to you!
Some call it the "Underground," others call it the "Tube," but every savvy traveller calls the London Underground the best way to get around in London. The Underground is an extensive network of subway lines criss-crossing the city. No matter where you want to go in London, there's a subway station there.
Riding the Rails is FUN!
Subway lines run everywhere in London. I can't think of any major tourist areas in London that can't be easily reached by subway. I love subways, and am always fascinated by them. For every city's subway that I've been on, I have some memory. In London, there are lots of cool things I remember...
Mazes. Some of the stations -- especially those that join two or more lines -- have intricate mazes of hallways, staircases, and odd little curved tubed passageways through which you somehow manage to navigate...only to find yourself on the wrong side of the tracks! I have this theory that British subway engineers are only hired after successfully designing a model station in which at least 63% of all Yanks get thoroughly lost despite the presence of completely accurate signage.
Mind the Gap. Signs saying "Mind the Gap" were everywhere -- a grim reminder of the perils of that little 2 inch gap between the train door and the platform. Not only are there signs, but announcements in many stations. At the stations I remember on the Northern Line, they had a surrealistic automated voice, complete with British intonation, reminding everyone to "Moind the Gop". Over...and over....and over.
Ancient coaches: Okay, so this is only the Northern Line (most of the other lines had fairly modern train cars), but it's still kinda cool. I loved the old train coaches with wood floors, creaky noises, and windows that you could actually put down if you wanted to feel the warm, oily smelling breeze. I think some of these train cars are actually older than Hadrian's Wall. A friend told me that they were going to modernize the Northern Line. Hope they haven't done it, the line was funky as all get out when I was there!
Huff and Puff: On one trip we got to Camdentown only to find that the escalators weren't working. We had the luck of seeing one of London's dankest, tiniest, narrowest staircases as we marched upwards to street level -- at least there's one place I know I've been that not everyone else has already checked out!
All these memories for the price of a 1-week Travelcard!
Riding the Rails Saves You Money
The Underground is the cheapest way to get around in London. Taxis are cool, but costly. Buses are cool too, with their double-deck views, but they get stuck in traffic. The only way to zip around quickly and cheaply is the subway.
Save More Money: Buy What You Need
Before you get to London and pay for a bunch of single trip tickets, consider buying a Travelcard, which is a pass good for a set period of time. Usually, a 1-day pass is cheaper than several single trips, a weekly pass is cheaper than a bunch of single-day passes, and a monthly pass is cheaper than a bunch of weekly passes. Figure out how much time you're going to be in London, where you want to go in the city, and buy the pass that's right for you right from the start! When I was in London, a 1-day 2-zone pass cost about 3 pounds and a 1-week 2-zone pass cost about 15 pounds. The weekly pass only pays off if you'll use it more than 5 days.
You pay based on the number of zones through which you will travel. Generally, Zone 1 is central London, encompassed by the Circle Line, if you look at an Underground map. Other zones go out in circles from there, all the way out to Zone 6, which is where Heathrow airport lies. Most tourists need no more than 2 zones to cover most of the best places.
Underground passes are good on local light rail lines and buses too (very nice to jump on one of those double decker buses for a little tour from aloft).
The first time you buy a weekly, monthly, or longer duration Travelcard, you'll also need to get a photo ID. There are photo machines at many of the larger subway stations (I got mine at Paddington Station). You then provide the photos to the clerk at the ticket window, along with payment for the type of pass you want, and you're done!
How the Underground Works
The subway lines are run like independent companies. Each has its own name, like the Waterloo Line, the Circle Line, or the Northern Line, and each is color coded on the London Underground maps. Maps are available in major stations, and are often in major guidebooks. It helps if you have a good map book of London as well. Everybody gets an A to Z map book (pronounced "A to Zed" -- them wacky Brits) -- the maps are excellent and absolutely indispensible. You'll want to plot your route before you get on the train.
When you use the subway or the buses, you have two things that you carry: your Underground-issued photo ID and your Travelcard. Travelcards are used at stations with automatic gates. Travelcards are not transferrable or shareable, and your photo ID card number is printed on the Travelcard. You may occassionally be asked to show both items.
If you find yourself wanting to go outside the number of zones indicated on your Travelcard, you need to buy a zone extension card before you get on the train. If you forget to buy the extension, you might find yourself being charged a penalty when you exit the train station, although there are some outlying stations that (especially at night), don't have anybody checking Travelcards.
Ride When You Arrive!
Get in the habit of using the subway from the moment you arrive in London. Jumping in a taxi for the trip downtown might be convenient, especially if you're travelling with half your worldly possessions in tow, but it'll set you back at least $50. If you're a smart traveller who is carrying no more than a duffel bag, why not just jump on the tube right at the airport? You can buy a single trip ticket, then buy a weekly or monthly pass later.
If you arrive at Gatwick, there's no subway stop, but there is a Gatwick Express train which will take you downtown for about 10 pounds.
History of the Tube
London's Underground is a fascinating feat of modern engineering; it was the first modern subway system, having been started in 1863 -- steam trains and all (could you image a coal-burning locomotive in an underground station....Oooff!) During the second World War, Londoners endured "the Blitz" when German planes dumped thousands of bombs on the city killing tens of thousands of people in a single night. During the war, subway stations were used as bomb shelters and there are supposedly various military offices and supply rooms located off various tunnels around town.
Catch That Train!
Whatever you do in London, just make sure to get there by Underground! It's easy to use, lots of fun, and best of all for cheapskates like me...there is no cheaper way to get around in London! See you on the train.
NOTE: This is a repost of an opinion written March 29, 2000. I'm moving it to a more appropriate category.
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