Morocco - What you can really expect.
Mar 17 '01 (Updated Jul 21 '03)
The Bottom Line Abandon idealism, look tough, be alert, and bargain. If you do those things, not only will you be safe, you'll have a great time. Maybe.
It’s been a while since I thought about my time in Morocco. A lot of things about that period have had such an effect on me that I’ve almost forgotten what it was like never to have been there. I had heard a lot about it before going, and still it was more overwhelming than I could have imagined in many ways. My previous reviews on Morocco were written to help in preparing your itinerary. This one is intended to help in preparing your mental state before arrival, and to warn you of a few potential dangers.
When I researched my trip way back when, it seemed there was a wealth of information about Morocco, but none of it conveyed the experience I eventually had. On one hand, there was the whitewashed guidebook description. Books like Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and Let’s Go were relatively thorough from a factual standpoint, but did the experience of Morocco absolutely no justice. Yes, you need a guidebook, but keep in mind they’re written as if being stabbed in the gut is a surgical procedure. Of course, the other type of information I found plentiful was diametrically opposed to what I had read, and consisted of what I had heard from other travelers. Most of that information led me to believe that I was likely to be robbed, murdered, and dragged through the muddy streets within hours of my arrival. My experience led me to believe that those accounts were either exaggerated or embellished, as I’m still alive and well.
I think the key to a positive experience in Morocco is to abandon expectations. Frankly, it’s nearly impossible to properly prepare yourself mentally for what you may encounter. I would recommend neither expecting to fall in love with it nor being tortured at the hands of people who won’t understand your cries for mercy. Morocco is a land of disarray and the unpredictable. It’s hospitable at times, and at times will kick your butt and leave you out in the cold. Sometimes you’ll get the impression you’ve been transported to France, and at other times Syria. Morocco is heaven and hell, beauty and the beast, friend and foe, and everything in between the extremes. You’re likely to find yourself in a market one minute having made the bargain of the century, and the next you find yourself grabbing your ankles. Just when you think you can sit back and relax, something leaves you feeling terrified or sends you reeling. And in all of this lies Morocco’s beauty. It’s the kind of place that inspires both adventure and misadventure, and people who love a challenge are likely to walk away with a racing heart.
Now that you’ve abandoned expectations, realized that your guidebook is a little dry, and that travel legend is in large part fiction, you’re getting somewhere. You’re probably thinking, “So, why should I trust what you have to say?” It’s Morocco – you shouldn’t. About the healthiest approach you can take to Morocco is a skeptical one. And that goes for an organized tour or a solo, self-guided adventure.
If you’re new to Morocco, you will want to plan your time of arrival. I arrived in Tangier after dark. Major mistake. Trust me on this one – if you show up in Tangier (or any major city) at night with a backpack strapped to your torso, consider yourself a moving target. I’m not saying you’ll be in danger, necessarily. I’m saying you’ll be easier to pick out of the crowd than Big Bird in a first grade classroom, and if you haven’t been to Morocco before you’re probably going to feel uneasy. You’ll notice that most of the people you encounter at night are men, and many are dressed in a way you are surely not. As a result of your distinct appearance, you’re going to be approached by several people per minute who want to be your personal guide to the city. Don’t feel threatened and don’t look upset when they ask. And they will ask persistently. The things you’ll read in your books about laws against these guides may be true, but it doesn’t seem to have been much of a deterrent. Simply look like you know what you’re doing even though you have absolutely no clue and move forward. You don’t need a guide unless you really want to explore the medina (Arab quarter), and you’re not going to want to do that with your backpack on at night. Get to your hotel, ditch your pack, and then go explore if you’re still up for it. Or do what I did and head directly to the train station and get the hell out of there. Take a cab if you aren’t sure where you’re going – they’re everywhere and they’re eager to get your dirhams. Don’t forget to bargain for your fare.
Use common sense. I’m not going to give you too many common sense tips. If you need those you’d better think about heading somewhere else, because Morocco requires a bit of savvy. There’s a reason that those nightmare stories exist about being robbed of your possessions or being groped as a female traveler. Some are probably true, although like I said, most are likely to be exaggerated. Actually, my personal experience was that Morocco was safer than most of Spain. It’s just much different than Europe or the U.S., so if you happen to be accustomed to travel in those places it might seem more threatening than it really is. Fear of the unknown will keep you edgy, but you’ll adjust. Anyway, be alert and you’ll be fine. That’s not a promise, but I wasn’t mugged and my female travel partner wasn’t touched one time. Do what I did - look as tough as you can and seem like you’re not going to take any guff, and you probably won’t have to. And bargain for everything – cab rides, food, train tickets, henna tattoos, trinkets, trips to the hammam and whatever else. You’re going to be suckered at least once, but remember that initial offers for most things are at least double what you’ll be expected to pay.
It would help you to know a few phrases in Arabic. That’s where your guidebook comes in handy. If that sounds entirely daunting, try using a bit of French. Almost everyone in Morocco speaks it even though I’m sure they all hate it as much as I do. Spanish also tends to work, especially in northern Morocco. If you must rely on English you'll probably be in luck, as it's becoming more and more prevalent. Just remember that outside of the major cities, you’re most likely to encounter people whose primary language is none of the above - you can really learn from them!!
Now that I think about it, there are a few things about travel in Morocco you CAN expect. Here’s a short list:
1. You have a high likelihood of getting food poisoning of some kind. Of all the people I encountered, I’m one of the few that didn’t. My travel partner spent 8 hours on an overnight bus dry heaving after filling two plastic bags with her recycled dinner. Since you’re almost definitely going to get sick anyway, go ahead and eat the local food. It’s delicious the first time around. And drink bottled water for crying out loud.
2. You’re going to have to squat in the bathroom. Many are an enclosed hole in the ground with a bucket of water and nothing more. (The bucket is there so that you can follow your contribution to the hole with something a little more pleasant.) You won’t find toilet paper very often, so if you're like me and tend to need it, BRING YOUR OWN!
3. You’ll meet lots of other travelers there, and they’ll probably be willing to tag along. That’s not because they like you necessarily, but because they will feel safer with another Big Bird around.
4. You’ll experience every emotion you possibly can whether you want to or not. Fear, joy, sadness, fear, bewilderment, confusion, fear, elation, boredom, relief, and fear. And at times, perhaps even a bit of fear.
OK, I lied. I’m going to give you one itinerary hint that I think is critical to travel in Morocco. Whatever you do, don’t go to Morocco, visit only the major cities, and leave. While the markets and squares in Marrakesh are stimulating and should definitely not be skipped, they aren’t always pleasant and can really wear you down. On top of that, in my opinion, Morocco’s greatest treasures can be found in its natural beauty. It’s got a bit of everything from beaches to kasbah filled valleys to beautiful mountains and rock formations to pre-Sahara sand dunes. As far as I’m concerned, Morocco is right up there with Yosemite National Park in California, the Southwestern U.S., and Tuscany in terms of natural beauty. But you’ll have to get out of the city to find it. As much as I hate most organized tours, they’re probably your best option. Seek them out regardless of your feelings toward them. They may be your only ticket to leaving city limits. Yes, Fes has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site for a reason. And yes, the market there is a true cultural experience that you probably won’t see anywhere else, with the possible exceptions of Cairo and a handful of other places. But keep in mind that Morocco’s natural beauty is also very unique and worthy of an equal percentage of your stay there.
Well, I hope all of this helps. There are no guarantees when it comes to travel in Morocco, but I can tell you that I had a great time there despite a hardship or two. E-mail me and let me know how it goes.
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