Ah, life in the country…and what better place to savor country air than in our own mother country. For centuries, English gentry have known that London is for business but the country is for living. Although the weather can vary from beautiful to bracing, you really haven’t seen England until you’ve taken a long walk through the rolling hills and hidden groves of the English countryside.

War of the Roses

The Cotswold House is a luxury inn located in the center of the famous Cotswolds, also known as the “Heart of England.” The building itself dates to the 17th century and, with care, will easily last another 400 years and more. The innkeepers, Ian and Christa Taylor only recently purchased the hotel and have lovingly doted upon this country inn as you would your own child.

The simple brown stone façade melds into the ancient town square and is adorned with only an understated Doric archway. Once inside, you’ll immediately notice the grand stairwell – a three story cyclone of mahogany and alabaster swirling upward to a central rotunda and chandelier. Immediately to your right sits the parlor with plump couches, reading lamps and a wood-burning fireplace inviting you for tea, a dram of gin or just to enjoy a crackling fire on a damp, cool night.

The War of the Roses has taken on new meaning in country gardens like the one occupying the back yards at the Cotswold House. Roses, periwinkles and wild native flora punctuated by Moroccan mosaics explode against the brilliant green canvas of the meticulous lawns. On a sunny day, you’ll be tempted to sit back, read a book or write in your journal and try desperately not to fall asleep in this peaceful haven.

An Elegant Country Home

This tiny luxury hotel hosts only 15 rooms and indulges guests with highly personalized service. Ian and Christa are delightful and charming and can help with everything from arranging housekeeping to assisting you with planning your activities during your stay.

Each guest room is uniquely decorated in classic English style and lined in radiant colors of fresh-cut flowers, satiny chintz, and rare woods. While one might conclude that the room designs are heavily influenced by the likes of Laura Ashley, I’m afraid the influence of this classic English country style flows the other direction.

Room appointments express the utmost consideration by the hosts for their guests and evidence a perfectionist’s attention to detail. You will find a comfortable seating area with windows overlooking the town square or, if you’re lucky, the gardens. The well-stocked en-suite bathrooms boast Penhalion soaps, shower gels and lotions that emphasize luxury and traditional English sensibility. Of course, no English bathroom would be complete without the requisite heated towel racks.

The bedding at this hotel is exceptional. Buried in piles of fluffy down pillows, crisp linens, warm blankets and soft duvets, you’ll probably refuse to get out of bed on a dull and rainy day. For those with particular requirements for bedding, the Taylors even offer a “pillow” menu, affording you an unprecedented selection of material and firmness.

Les “Rosbifs”

Just as the Brits disparagingly refer to the French as “frogs,” so the French refer to the Brits as “les rosbifs” in honor of England’s infamous, and often bland, cuisine. While the British Empire may be accused of many crimes, one clear benefit has been the salvation of English cooking by the influence of foods from around the world. Head Chef Alan Dann fully embraces English Nouvelle cuisine and combines fresh traditional ingredients into epicurean delights revitalized by global culinary influences.

You’ll begin your day at the Cotswold House with a traditional English Breakfast, taken in the main restaurant overlooking the garden or, weather permitting, outside on the garden terrace. The breakfast is substantial and includes fresh cereals, eggs, sausages, broiled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms and fresh juices. Although most Yanks take coffee at breakfast, I highly recommend you yield to the locals and indulge some English Breakfast tea, which is highly caffeinated and flavorful.

Lunch and dinner at the hotel feature local ingredients and homegrown vegetables composed into eye and palate-pleasing symphonies. I highly recommend the appetizers such as the ballotine of foie gras, the lobster salad and the crotin chavignol goat cheese served in crispy Thai baskets. The delicious entrée selection includes lamb, venison, squab and shellfish and each is delightfully prepared with fresh ingredients and flavorful sauces.

“Cats!” For Elizabethans

In recent decades, Yanks have invaded the Cotswolds in alarming numbers, drawn by the area’s fascinating history, cultural events and breathtaking natural beauty. Just up the road lies Stratford-upon-Avon, birthplace to William Shakespeare and home of the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. The old Roman town of Bath is a short drive away and features, incredibly, Roman Baths as well as extensive shopping. The area is also littered with castles, aging mansions and tiny hamlets that have changed very little over the centuries.

For a real native experience, an excellent time of year to visit is in late May and early June when Chipping Camden hosts the 400-year-old Olimpicks. The opening ceremonies are particularly dramatic with a torch lit parade through the town square up to the top of Dover’s hill for fireworks followed by a dance party back in the square. The events themselves are hysterical with such tests of athletic prowess as shin kicking. The Olimpicks are great family fun as many events and activities appeal to children of all ages.

Foote and Mouth

No trip to the country is complete without a good long walk. Don’t let the weather stop you; it has never stopped the English. With a stiff upper lip, you may need to start with a short walk across the street to the Camden Trading Company where you’ll be outfitted with the best in English country wear. You’ll definitely need a Barbour coat and, in very foul weather, a pair of awful smelling but dry “wellies.”

A complete network of walking trails is readily available from just outside the hotel. Trails lead through towns and pastoral fields of bright pistachio green peppered with black and white sheep. Stay on the well-marked trails and you won’t need to worry about trespassing since the walking paths are considered public right of way in England. A word of caution: although the sheep and lambs may seem friendly and even cute, it’s best to keep your distance from the livestock.

Tally Ho!

Whether you travel to the UK frequently or are planning a first visit, the Cotswold House is a “must-see.” At current exchange rates, rooms cost between $130 and $300 per night, including all taxes and a full breakfast. Since this is a very small inn, it is advisable that you book reservations well in advance. You should plan on spending at least three to five days in the area to fully explore the many attractions and activities that surround this historic and charming village in the country.

To find out more and make reservations, I recommend the hotel's website at www.cotswoldhouse.com.


Recommended: Yes