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Using Paris's great public transit system: Metro, RER, Bus, Noctambus, Tram, etc. Go RATP!Mar 28 '01 (Updated Dec 12 '03) Write an essay on this topic.The Bottom Line You will go crazy driving a car in Paris. Avoid traffic vortices and motorist's madness by riding one of the world's best public transit systems. Millions do it every day. For many Americans, a typical vacation consists of flying somewhere, picking up a rental car at the airport, and using it as the basic means of local transportation. If you value your sanity, you must notdo this when you visit Paris. As a typical American driver, you'll be way out of your league. You'll face excellent but impatient and aggressive drivers, many narrow and one-way streets, streets whose names change every half mile, tiny and dim traffic lights and nearly invisible street name signs, few lane markings, chaotic traffic circles, bizarre "traffic vortices" that seem to make it impossible for you to reach your destination even when you know exactly how to get there, and a dearth of parking among the worst in the world. You could take taxis everywhere, but they're relatively expensive, not always easy to come by, and you wouldn't get to mix with Parisians and other tourists. RATP Fortunately, Paris has one of the world's best urban and regional transportation systems, and it's managed by an organization called RATP (English speakers often find this amusing, but the French pronounce it uh-rah-tay-pay). RATP (you can call it "rat pee") runs an extensive, highly integrated, and efficient network of metro (M) lines (this is a subway or underground system), city center to suburb rail lines (RER), daytime and evening buses (BUS), late night busses (Noctambus), trams (T), buses to de Gaulle and Orly airports, a funicular on Montparnasse, and a few other specialized services. Using this system, you can go just about anywhere you choose in Paris proper or the Ile-de-France region. Riding the Metro There are 16 metro lines (lines 1-14 plus 3 bis and 7 bis) and scores of metro stations. Most every tourist destination within Paris proper has a nearby station. For example, the Louvre is served by Louvre-Rivoli and Palais Royal Musée du Louvre stations as well as several others that are within walking distance. The metro runs from about 5:30 am to about 1:00 am, but you must carefully note the time of the last trains at the stations you intend to use. Riding the metro is easy. Each line has a number and two ends identified by their station names. For example, line 1 has La Défense at one end and Château de Vincennes at the other. So all you have to know when you go into the station is whether you're going in the direction of La Défense or Château de Vincennes, and then just follow the signs to your platform. If you're lucky, your trip won't require a transfer. Just get off the train at your destination station and follow the signs that say "sortie" to get out. As you get more sophisticated, you'll start to notice that different sorties go to different locations on the surface, which can save you time or the terror of crossing a large boulevard. If you do have to transfer, you need to know three things: your transfer station, and the line number and direction of your next train. When you get off at your transfer station, instead of following the sortie signs, follow the signs that say "correspondence" and indicate your new line and direction. For example, "correspondence M1" or "correspondence M1 direccion La Défense." If you're transferring to an RER train, look for "correspondence RER" or something similar. To plan your trips, get a free copy of the Paris transportation map, Paris--Plan des Lignes, which seems to be available everywhere, but only when you're not looking for it. Every metro station has large wall maps of the metro system and the neighborhood surrounding the station. Most tourist guides have a map of the metro and RER, as well. Of course, you're going to need a ticket to ride, but I'll talk about those later. Riding the RER The RER serves central Paris, but its purpose is to make the longer trips to and from the suburbs. At the moment there are 5 RER lines, identified by the letters A through E. Planning a trip on the RER is a lot like planning one on the metro, and there are even many stations where you can make a "correspondence" between the RER and metro (for example, Saint-Michel and Gare de Lyon). However, there are two things to watch out for: 1) unlike metro lines, RER lines split as they go out into the suburbs, and 2) not all trains stop at all stations (like Chicago's A and B trains). The split lines are designated by numbers after the line's letter identification. For example, in the general direction of de Gaulle Airport, there is a B3 line and a B5 line. The C line is the most complicated with 7 tentacles (C5 goes to the Château de Versailles). Before you board an RER train, be sure it is going to stop at your destination. First, be sure you are on the right platform for the line and direction you are headed. Second, know the complete designation of the line you need (e.g. B3) and be sure that it displayed on the front of the train as you watch it come into the station. Third, there is an elaborate four-letter naming system for the trains. Consult the chart in the station to find the four-letter designation of the next train that serves your destination, and make sure is displayed on the front of the train or on the station's information display as the train comes in. Fourth, there is an elaborate and I think archaic type of enunciator board in some stations that flashes the names of all stations served by the incoming train. Don't worry, you'll figure it out if you pay attention. The RER, like the metro, runs from about 5:30 am to about 1:00 am, but you must carefully note the time of the last trains at the stations you intend to use. You can get to Charles de Gaulle Airport on RER B3 (this is my preferred way to get there) and to Orly Airport on RER B4 with a transfer at Anthony to Orlyval, a special service. Buses I don't like buses because they're slow, but you do get to see the city rather than the inside of a dark tunnel. Bus lines have two digit numbers, and as with the metro and RER, each end has a name. Bus schedules are different during the week, on Sundays and holidays, and in the evening. There are two express airport busses, Roissybus, which goes from Paris-Opéra to Charles de Gaulle Airport, and Orlybus, which goes from Denfert-Rochereau to Orly Airport. Late night buses are designated by a single letter. Most of them run from somewhere in the suburbs to the Châtelet bus terminal. The hours are 1:00 am to 5:30 am. Tickets Rule 1: You must have a valid ticket in your possession whenever you are using the transportation system, from the beginning to the end of your journey. Don't throw it away until you've gone through the final sortie. Transit cops make random ticket checks, but you still see kids jumping the turnstiles all the time. The gory details of the system of fares is pretty complicated, but the basics are really simple. A single ticket costing FF 8 (just over $1) is good for one trip on the metro, RER, or bus within zones 1 through 3 (basically the whole city of Paris). You can transfer as many times as you need to on the metro or RER but not on the bus. One especially good deal is to buy a stack of 10 tickets, called a "carnet," (pronounced car-nay) for only FF 58, a savings of FF 22 (about $3). You can get tickets at any metro or RER station, when jumping onto a bus, as well as at many tabacs and other locations displaying the RATP logo (a white circle with a white squiggle across it that looks like a face looking heavenward). If you don't want to hassle with individual tickets, RATP has a deal for you. It's a 1-, 2-, 3-, or 5-day all inclusive transit pass called Paris Visite. Passes are available for zones 1-3, 1-5, or 1-8. If you're just going to travel within Paris proper, the first pass is great. The zone 1-5 pass will get you to Versailles, and the zone 1-8 pass will get you to both major airports. But you might be able to save money by sticking to the zone 1-3 Paris Visite and buying individual tickets for your more distant ventures. On the other hand, if you're staying in the suburbs, you may want a pass that covers more zones. This pass covers all of RATP's systems, including the Montparnasse funicular, trams, and even certain suburban trains that are run by the national railroad. These passes are available at most larger metro and RER stations as well as railroad stations. For a zone 1-3 Paris Visite pass, cost ranges from FF 55 for 1 day to FF 175 for 5 days. It's a good deal if you plan to ride a lot, and it saves time because you never have to buy more tickets. By the way, passes are free for kids under 4 and half price for those 4 to 11. Integration With Other Transportation Infrastructure Paris has six major train stations serving the national rail network run by SNCF: Gare St-Lazare, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est, Gare de Lyon, Gare d'Austerlitz, and Gare Montparnasse. The metro and bus systems serve all six stations, but the RER serves only Nord, Lyon and Austerlitz. It's worth mentioning that, if you're taking a train from Paris to some other part of France or Europe, it's crucial to know which of the many Paris train stations it's leaving from. Eurostar trains to London and Brussels leave from Gare du Nord. High speed trains to the southeast of France generally leave from Gare de Lyon and to the southwest from Gare Montparnasse, but there are no hard and fast rules. You just have to know. RER line B3 serves both major terminals at Charles de Gaulle Airport, and RER line B4 plus a transfer at Anthony to the Orlyval line serves Orly Airport. I've already mentioned Roissybus and Orlybus in the section on buses. Hints for a Few Tourist Stops Here are a few suggestions for getting to common tourist stops: Tour Eiffel: metro to Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro (for a longer walk but a great view across the Seine from the steps of the Palais de Chaillot), or RER to Champ de Mars Tour Eiffel. Musée du Louvre: metro to Palais Royale. Notre Dame: metro to Cité or St-Michel, or RER to St-Michel Notre Dame. Place de la Concorde: metro to Concorde. Arc de Triomphe: metro or RER line A to Charles de Gaulle Étoile. Musée d'Orsay: RER to Musée d'Orsay. Nearest metro is Solférino. Château de Versailles: RER line C5 to Versailles Rive Gauche. Heart of the Left Bank: metro to St-Michel, Odéon, Cluny La Sarbonne, St-Germain des Prés or RER to St-Michel Notre Dame. Basilique du Sacre Coeur: metro to Anvers or Abbesses followed by Funiculaire de Montmartre or a long walk up the steps. Go for it! After a day or two, riding the metro and RER will become second nature. Don't be Alarmed, But... There are pickpockets in the metro, as well as around every significant tourist destination. I have been pickpocketed myself, brought down by professional predators like an antelope on the Sarengeti, as my partner put it, but I'll never stop riding the metro. Stay alert, watch your companion's back, keep your true valuables under your clothes, not in your pockets. You are most vulnerable when you are tired, as when you first arrive and are lugging your suitcases. Beware of anyone trying to distract you, as by dropping something on or near you. That's it. You may be pickpocketed in the Paris metro, but you won't be knifed or shot. That's the good news. Save Travel Money By Using the Right Credit Card Does your credit card have this feature? Find out how to save at least 2% on all overseas credit card transactions: click here. Web Resources RATP has a great web site at www.ratp.fr . You can click on the UK flag to get the English version, but I suggest trying to navigate the site in French since it's more like being in France. The site has a complete facility for planning a trip between any two points identified by station name, street address, or even major landmark. However, take the suggested routing with a grain of salt. Your human mind can probably pick a better route than its little electronic mind. For more complete information about getting to and from the airports, including non-RATP services, check the Aéroports de Paris web site at www.adp.fr . The French national railroad (SNCF) has a developing site at www.sncf.fr , but it still has a long way to go. It may be better to use RailEurope at www.raileurope.com to plan trips. Other Related Advice on Transportation in Europe -- Using public transit in Paris -- Web Resources for Serious Train Riders -- France and adjacent countries on the TGV, Eurostar, and Thalys -- Getting from Charles de Gaulle airport into Paris -- Paris to London on Eurostar, the Chunnel Train -- London to Paris on Eurostar, the Chunnel Train -- Using the Swiss transportation system |
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