Romancing The Moselle!
Apr 18 '01
The Bottom Line Make sure your travel itinerary to Germany includes the Moselle Valley, an area frequently overlooked. Castles galore, picturesque towns, splendid scenery and superb wine!
Most travel itineraries for Germany suggest a river cruise on the Rhine, but surprisingly few will suggest the far more scenic and romantic river cruise on the Moselle River, which between the cities of Trier and Koblenz winds and bends like no other German river. With a length of about 340 miles, the Moselle is the biggest affluent of the Rhine and flows through France and Luxembourg before reaching Germany.
"Lieblich" is what the Germans call the Moselle valley, and rightly so. It is magically "lovely", this peaceful landscape, slate hills covered with vineyards, only to be upstaged by the towering presence of medieval castles. Picturesque villages and towns grace the river banks, their history going back as far as the Roman Empire! Excavations have revealed remnants from settlements more than 5000 years ago, and each town and every castle and ruin has it's own fascinating story to tell.
Trier, the oldest city on German soil, was founded by Augustus in 15 B.C. and was the seat for the financial administration for the western part of the Roman Empire. Many of the old buildings are still standing, such as the world famous "Porta Nigra", built in 270, or the Basilika Cathedral, even a Roman bridge over the Moselle, the incredible towering ruins of the Imperials baths or the colossal Amphitheater. One day here won't satisfy the history buff, plan on at least 2 days as your river cruise will most likely start or end here.
Once you embark on your cruise, be prepared to be charmed by each and every picturesque town, nestled at the foot of vineyards so steep, one can only wonder how cultivating and harvesting is even possible. World famous Moselle wine can be tasted in quaint wine taverns (Weinstuben), and you quickly learn the meaning of the German word "Gemuetlichkeit", an atmosphere unlike anywhere else. Local wines are superb, far superior to any import you might have tasted, and if you hit it off with the proprietor you might even be fortunate enough to sample some of their most prized vintages. Slate is the secret here, grapes thrive on the warmth it can store for long periods of time, making this one of Germany's premier wine growing regions.
Depending on which river cruise you choose, and there are many of them, ships will stop and give you time to explore, marvel at the architecture, investigate old ruins and visit one of the many restored castles and fortresses. One of the most beautiful castles in all of Germany has to be 'Burg Eltz', ca. 1157, and it still stands today, one of the few undestroyed, a perfect harmony between architecture, landscape and history. Even though a one hour hike is required to get there, your visit is guaranteed to be memorable. You'll be mesmerized by the interior, with its collection of tapestry, paintings and arms. The setting for this magnificent structure is nothing short of magical!
Castle after castle will tempt you to visit and learn its legend. Names of Celts, Romans and Frankonians alternate with those of the French, Spaniards, even Swedes. Who would have known that Russian Cossacks once haunted this beautiful valley?
The town of Zell, with its cobblestone streets and charming antique gable houses was my home when I was a child. This is where I hiked the vineyards, stomped the grapes with my bare feet at harvest time, took many a school trip to the 'Marienburg' castle, which sits high atop a long rocky ledge with forces the river to make a particularly tight turn. It is from here you can enjoy perhaps the best view of the winding Moselle valley. Not much has changed here over the years and occasional nostalgic visits still find it as charming and enchanting as it was during my childhood. The regions best known wine "Zeller Schwarze Katz" (Zeller Black Cat) can be enjoyed here, and where better than in the Schloss Zell Restaurant right in the middle of town, one of the most original and authentic restaurants in all of the Moselle valley.
Koblenz with its magnificent churches sits at the confluence of the Moselle and the mighty Rhine River. In 14 A.D. (and probably on top of an even older Celtic settlement) the castle of Emperor Tiberius was built here. Much of this city was destroyed during WW II and although much of its charm has been lost, its location alone warrants a visit.
There are too many glorious castles to mention along the path of the sleepy Moselle, too many wonderful towns to explore, too much history to repeat, and to miss this scenic region of Germany would be your loss.
Best times to go are May/June or September/October, avoiding the colder months and the hords of tourists in July and August. For in-depth exploring of this area I would suggest a driving tour, stay in quaint hotels or B&Bs along the way (no shortage of those) and let yourself be absorbed by the magical charm of this truly unique area.
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Member: Claudia Testa
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Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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