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Jerry's Crap on a Bun - It's a Hit in L.A.Apr 26 '01 (Updated Sep 07 '01) Write an essay on this topic.The Bottom Line I just want good service, edible food, and a chilled atmosphere. There’s a scene in Swingers. Vince Vaughn’s character, at a Los Angeles late night diner, hands his plate to a stranger in the next booth, gets up on the table, swings his shirt over his head, and yells “Baby’s all growed up.” This is not so far from reality in Los Angeles. When the clubs and bars close at 3am, the sloshed gather at the diners. Denny’s, particularly, is a haven for the high and blasted. Mix that with the winos and other freaks of the night and it could be an amusing time. When I was eighteen I didn’t mind going to those all night eateries where I could see fist fights, people yelling at each other or people high on some new concoction. I’m from the subdued Valley and these things were entertaining. Now, however, when I’m at a diner I just want good service, edible food, and a chilled atmosphere. Here are three diners that I’ve liked over the years and ones that I dislike. Twains 12905 Ventura Blvd Studio City, CA If you have ever visited or lived in the Valley (ever see Fast Times at Ridgemont High or Valley Girl?) you should know that almost everything closes at around 9:00 p.m. There is the overly priced, stupidly trendy and health grade F Jerry’s Deli’s in Studio City and Encino. Instead when I am in the mood for a midnight munchie, I go to a homey diner called Twain’s on Ventura Boulevard. Twain’s is very laid back with a street side patio area. The indoor booths and counter seating are nothing fancy. It’s the typical seventies looking joint with stone décor and brownish upholstery, but Twains has got its high points. The service is top grade. The waiters and waitresses are friendly, going the extra mile with a smile. A friend of mine likes cheese on his salad, so the waiter actually cut the, um, cheddar and served it up without a fuss. I don’t know how many times at Denny’s, the waiters rolled their eyes at us and acted completely annoyed at our presence. I don’t care if it’s 4 in the morning. I want some considerate, attentive, kiss my behind service. No really, I just want a hint of responsiveness and maybe some courtesy on the side. The Rueben’s sandwich on rye bread is my usual. It’s served warm with a spattering of grilled sauerkraut, steak fries, and so-so coleslaw. They make a savory, homemade vegetable soup and bake a wide selection of fresh pies such as pecan, chocolate and coconut cream. I like their fluffy, tart lemon meringue with a warm cup of tea. Dolores 11407 Santa Monica Blvd Los Angeles, CA Dolores, located just west of the 405, attracts the laid back college students from U.C.L.A. and Santa Monica College and the sleepless seniors from the neighborhood. With so many rowdy places to go in the area like the ridiculously loud and busy Jerry’s Deli in Westwood, Dolores keeps a low profile. The atmosphere is dark and lounge-like. Booths line the windows. Bumpy, sepia glass plates separate the booths in the center. Waitresses compliment the decor. They are the typical roadside diner gal with streetwise wit and a motherly sternness. One forty-ish waitress, with dyed yellow-blond hair pulled back in a French twist with a puffy, teased up, hair sprayed tuff on top, keeps her pen behind her ear. She cracks her chewing gum and calls me “Hon.” The service is not overly helpful, but they get the job done, making sure we have what we need. I like their breakfast menu. Their menu may not have appetizing names like the Grand Slam or Rooti Tootie, but you will find the usual fare of eggs, bacon, and toast plus corned beef and hash or chirizo. One time I did order orange slices as a healthy accompaniment to my greased up breakfast. The orange slices cost me about $3.00 – very high. The prices are generally a few dollars more than the typical diner, but the cozy ambience may be worth the higher cost. Canter’s Deli 419 N Fairfax Ave Los Angeles, CA The 70-year old deli is a staple of Los Angeles, often crowded at all hours. Canter’s has a retro sixties feel with a mosaic ceiling and flying saucer-shaped, hanging lamps. The brightly-lit restaurant sounds like a hollow, clanking cafeteria with a buzz of conversation. A hodgepodge of people hang out at Canter’s from Jewish seniors to Melrose kids to professionals. The cold cut deli sandwiches and chicken soup are among the favorites. A generous amount of meat like pastrami or turkey and cheese is heaped between your choice of fresh breads. Even the non-Jewish patrons love Mishmosh, matzo ball soup brimming with kreplach, rice, noodles, chicken and carrots. Adjacent to Canter's dining space, the Kibitz Room is a small bar with a narrow stage featuring local bands. Sometimes the music gets loud, but overall the crowd is fairly low key, enjoying the beer on tap and live music. Last time I was there, a rock band was playing to thirty-something rockers who still wore leather jackets, torn Levi’s and scraggly hair. Down with Jerry’s Deli – Various locations Don’t go here unless you want to pay ten dollars for a deli sandwich and a teaspoon of yucky coleslaw. The one in Encino actually closed down for awhile due to a failed health inspection. You would think this would deter people, but it doesn’t. Jerry’s is still very popular. Maybe because the place is decorated with actor’s headshots and movie set lighting, making people feel like they are part of the film industry. In L.A. it's not what you do, but what you pretend to do. Jerry’s has a tendency to hire aspiring actors and actresses whose good looks almost compensate for low intelligence. At the Westwood location, my sister ordered their $5 dollar hot dog. After waiting forty minutes she was served hot (cow) tongue. We didn’t think hot tongue was such a popular item to be confused with a hot dog. The ever-clever waiter said, “It’s almost the same thing.” One time I ordered Caesar salad pizza, I like pizza and salad so I thought it was a good choice. What I was served was the salad on top of the pizza like a topping. Imagine soggy salad on a hot pizza. What was even more nauseating was it cost me $12 dollars. You have to pay in the lobby where mounted televisions captivate the workers. I often have to get the cashier’s attention to pay the bill even though they are standing two feet away from me. One nice thing I will say about Jerry’s is the deli counter. I will occasionally go straight to the counter to pick up a pound of lean, thinly sliced corned beef. I buy a loaf of rye bread from the market, add mustard, and it’s a delicious meal. They also had a good variety of desserts like chocolate and strawberry cakes, tiramisu, cookies, and pastries. Denny’s - Hollywood If you want to see fights and freaks, by all means, go to one of the two Denny’s in Hollywood. One time a short, preppy kid who probably bullied kids at his private high school and wanting to look cool in front of his rowdy, drunk friends sitting in a nearby booth, got into the face of an overgrown biker. The weathered, streetwise biker merely head-butt him. The preppy kid was stunned, a red swell growing on his forehead. The indifferent waiters didn’t do anything, just went about their business. No one did anything except watch, snicker, and eat like we were at a dinner theater. Some kids ran out, not in fear, but to dine ‘n ditch. See all the fun you miss out on by going to Twain’s, Dolores or Canter’s?  |
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