Getting around in Copenhagen
May 08 '01 (Updated May 05 '03)
The Bottom Line One of the advantages of Copenhagen is the wide variety of means of transportation available. The choice is dictated only by your own desires.
When visiting Copenhagen as a tourist, it may be helpful to know in advance that the city features a highly developed infrastructure for public transportation. In the following guide you will be provided with a brief introduction to the various boroughs of the city, whereafter the range of transportation facilities available in the Danish capital is described including a discussion on the merits and purposes for which each means of transportation is especially recommendable.
Geography of Copenhagen
Like most European capitals the layout of modern day Copenhagen reflects its past as a fortified city. The historical city centre lies surrounded by water: East of the city centre you'll find the inner harbour that separates Copenhagen from its eastern appendix namely the islet of "Holmen" and the island Amager, which houses the Copenhagen Airport and through the Øresund-bridge also connects Denmark to Sweden. Westwards are the artificial lakes, which once served as primary water reservoirs for the city and doubled as moats in times of trouble. These days the lakes have been adopted as favoured spots for Sunday promenades and evening jogs. On the left bank of the lakes are many of the inner boroughs that house a large part of the population of Copenhagen: Nørrebro ("Northern borough"), Vesterbro ("Western borough") and Frederiksberg. The remaining inner borough, Østerbro ("Eastern borough") lies northeast of the city centre and is also the gateway to the wealthier suburbs placed almost on a string along the Øresund-coast north of Copenhagen.
In the following, these means of transportation will be discussed:
1. Mainline Train Service from Copenhagen Airport
2. Taxi Cabs
3. Public Bus Service (Yellow buses)
4. The Copenhagen Metro
5. Hop-on, Hop-off Sightseeing Buses
6. Commuter Rail Service ("S-tog")
7. Copenhagen City Bike
8. Bicycle Rickshaws
9. The Harbour Bus
10. Car Rental
10. On Foot
1. Mainline Train Service
Assuming that you arrive in Copenhagen by air, your first encounter with ground-based transportation in Copenhagen is likely to be the mainline train service from the airport to the central station. This service is operated by conventional regional and inter-city trains. Be careful to choose the right train however, as the service operating between the airport and the central station is part of the wider network of mainline train services, which means that it is in fact possible to catch a train at the airport, which will connect you to the north-eastern mainline services (leading to Elsinore), the mainline services across the sound to Sweden (Malmö or even Stockholm) or the westwards mainline-service leading to Roskilde, Korsør, Odense or the cities of the western part of Denmark (Fredericia, Esbjerg, Vejle, Århus, Aalborg, Frederikshavn).
If your destination is the central station, you should be able to ride any train that has a destination of either "København H" or "Helsingør". Also some other destinations may stop at the main station but to be sure, the "København H" should be present somewhere on the train's itinerary.
While waiting to pick up your luggage you may be interested in checking what will be the next train towards the central station. Unfortunately, there are no monitors available to give you this information in the luggage pick-up area, but if you have a mobile phone that supports WAP you may look up the information at the following address: http://wap.bane.dk. You should leave the first entry blank but put "Kbh. Lufthavn" in the second field. This will give you a list of the next trains to arrive at or depart from the airport.
The price for a one-way ticket from the airport to the central station ("København H") is approximately 21 Danish kroner (2,80 euro). Tickets may be bought from the red ticket dispensers at the far end of Terminal 3, which is also where you will find the escalators leading to the train platforms. The machines accept Danish coins, and you should press the button labelled "Voksen 3 zoner" (Adult 3 zones) before inserting any card. Alternatively, there is a staffed ticket booth between the ticket dispensers. If you have bought a "Copenhagen Card" to facilitate your stay in the capital, be assured that this card will enable you to travel free of charge on the train service from the airport to the central station.
Having made your arrangements, be sure to look at the monitors near the escalator doors. Look for the screen saying "Afgang" (Departures) and pick the next train that has either "København H", "Østerport" or "Helsingør" as its destination. All of these will take you to the central station. Be sure to take note of the track ("Spor") from which the train departs - it can be either "1" or "2" and choose your escalator accordingly. There is one in each side of the terminal.
There are six departures each hour, and the ride takes between 11 - 13 minutes. The capacity is usually sufficient for every traveller to be able to sit down, although this may be different during the holidays. If you have bought a ticket as described in the above, it will be valid for further travel on buses, trains and metro service within central Copenhagen (zone 1 only) for one hour after the time of purchase.
Geography: Links Copenhagen to the rest of Denmark and abroad
Season: All year round
Characteristics: Expensive, fast and comfortable
Recommended for: Getting to the airport fast and inexpensively and for longer journeys outside Copenhagen
2. Taxis
Of course you may also choose to hail a taxi from the line waiting immediately outside terminal 3, but you should expect the ride to central Copenhagen to cost you at least 130 Danish kroner (17,50 euro) and to take around 13 minutes. The standard of taxis in Copenhagen and Denmark is generally very high. Most drivers operate Mercedes cars or similar brands of a standard that you might consider "Limousine service".
Taxi fares and licenses are regulated the authorities, and the trade is well organised. Do not expect to find any "black market cabs" as is common in other countries. There is an initial charge of 22 Danish kroner (3 euro) and the rate per kilometer varies between 1 - 1,50 euro depending on the day of week and time of day. Tips are included in the rates, and the driver is not allowed to accept more money than shown on the bill. The exception is special services such as carrying luggage, and attaching luggage to the outside of the car, which will cost you 2 and 1,30 euro per item respectively. All taxis accept payment by credit card (Visa, AmEx, Diners).
You can expect taxis to be available at any time of day or night except for peak periods in the weeks before and after Christmas.
Geography: Everywhere in Copenhagen
Season: All year round
Characteristics: Expensive, fast and comfortable
Recommended for: Shorter journeys when you are late or if you want to get somewhere without thinking
Phone Numbers:
Radio Codan 70 25 25 25
TAXA 4x35 35 35 35 35
Taxamotor 38 10 10 10
3. Public Bus Service (Yellow buses)
Once you have arrived at the Copenhagen Central Station, you may want to take one of the buses run by the metropolitan area bus services ("HT"). It is very easy to recognise these buses as they are painted a bright yellow colour. You enter the buses through the front doors and show your ticket to the driver. The ticket system used is the same as for the trains, and if you have a Copenhagen Card it will enable you to use the buses free of charge. Buses are available at any time of day, but between midnight and 5AM the system changes to one of nightbuses (recognisable by the letter "N" being added after the service-number). This also means that you will have to pay twice the price of a daytime ticket, unless you are in possession of the Copenhagen Card. The minimum price of a one-way ticket for adults (two zones) is 14 Danish Kroner (1,90 euro). This ticket will be valid for one hour after the time of purchase, and will enable you to travel on bus or train within the city of Copenhagen.
From the Central Station there are two bus terminals that you will want to be aware of. One is situated in Bernstorffsgade immediately outside the east-wards entrance (i.e. right-hand when coming from the train platforms). This little terminal is in fact situated right across from the Tivoli Gardens. A range of bus services and taxis can be used from here.
The main bus terminal is however situated a short walk from the main station. If you walk down Bernstorffsgade in the northern direction (i.e. left when coming from the station) and turn right along Vesterbrogade at the first junction, you will soon arrive at the City Hall Square.
At the west end of the Square you will find a black building, which is a combined bus terminal and tourist information service. A neon tablet on one side of the building shows destinations and departure times of the various services available as well as the letter of the
platform from which they depart. If you are in doubt, I recommend that you ask some of the well-qualified staff inside the black building.
It is a pity that tourists generally consider the bus services difficult or confusing to use as they provide by far the most extensive network of public transportation in Copenhagen. The area of Greater Copenhagen is serviced by 260 different bus services. Each service operates at anything between 3 minute and 1 hour intervals depending on the time of day. All buses are coloured brightly yellow making them easily identifiable from a distance. Special services are marked by "S" (regional services that will not stop at every station) or "A" (very frequent services that stop at every station but do not have a timetable).
If you try nothing else, I recommend going for a ride on service 29, which passes by many of the most interesting attractions of Copenhagen along its route: City Hall, Christiansborg (Parliament), Royal Opera, King's New Square, Nyhavn ("New Harbour"), Amalienborg (Residence of the Royal Family) and Langelinie ("Site of The little mermaid"). From the bus terminal at the City Hall choose service 29 in the direction bound for "Nordhavn".
Geography: All of the Copenhagen Metropolitan area
Season: Autumn and winter
Characteristics: Slow, relatively cheap but not especially comfortable
Recommended for: Exploring Copenhagen off the beaten track
http://www.ht.dk/tempfiles/8.asp
4. Hop-on, Hop-off Sightseeing Buses
If you gave up on figuring out how to use the yellow buses, an alternative is one of the two hop-on, hop-off sightseeing bus services provided by "Copenhagen Pride" and "Copenhagen Excursions" respectively. Just as in London you can ride in an open double-decker bus, which will take you through a selection of the most popular sights in Copenhagen. The service is available from April to October. A full, uninterrupted trip takes around 1 hour, and you can choose to get off or on at any of the many sights. The tickets can be purchased on the bus or booked on-line and are valid for two full days. An adult ticket costs around 180 Danish Kroner (24 euro). This is a great way to get an overview of the general layout of the city centre.
Geography: City centre and adjourning areas
Season: From mid-spring until mid-autumn
Characteristics: Slow and rather expensive but very convenient
Recommended for: Getting an overview of the Copenhagen geography
http://www.sightseeing.dk/regado.jsp?type=page&id=102
http://www.copenhagenpride.dk/busuk.htm
5. The Copenhagen Metro
On 19th October the first stage of the Copenhagen Metro opened officially for use by the public. The network so far links a major mainline station in central Copenhagen ("Nørreport") with the southeastern parts of the city and especially the boroughs located on the island of "Amager" - through 10 newly built stations. Until now, Amager has been poorly serviced by public transportation, but the Metro is expected to pave the way for further utilisation of the many natural and urban resources available here. Another two stages of the Metro network are scheduled for completion in 2003 (south-western network) and 2007 (airport). Tickets for the Metro are the same as those used on the yellow buses and in the S-trains.
Roughly half of the metro stations are underground. However, a complicated system of prism-shaped surface windows and mirrors allows even the underground platforms to be illuminated by natural light. In general, the new metro stations were designed in compliance with the typical Scandinavian principles emphasising lightness, functionalism and ease of accessibility. You will able to enjoy full coverage for your mobile phone on every stage of your underground journey with the Copenhagen Metro.
Inspired by London's Docklands Light Rail system the trains are controlled centrally, which means there is no driver's cockpit. Passengers thus have the opportunity to watch through the front and rear windows as the train progresses on it's journey. A metro steward will however be present on every train for reasons of safety and service.
Trains run once every six minutes although the frequency is expected to be increased to one train every three minutes by 2003. The service is open from 5AM - 1AM on ordinary weekdays and 24 hours a day during the weekend (Friday - Saturday).
If you want to visit the freetown of Christiania, a trip with the Metro from "Nørreport" or "Kongens Nytorv" to "Christianshavn" is a good start. From Christianshavn you will be able to reach Christiania walking on foot for less than ten minutes or by citybike in a few minutes.
Geography: City centre and the south-western parts of town
Season: All year round
Characteristics: Fast, cheap and generally comfortable
Recommended for: Visiting Christiania, travelling to Amager in general except the airport
http://www.m.dk/en/welcome.htm
6. Commuter Light Rail ("S-tog")
For longer journeys by rail within the metropolitan area you will want to use the S-trains or urban light rail system, which extends as far as 40 kilometres out from central Copenhagen reaching north to the town of Hillerød and south to the town of Køge. This rail service is very popular with many Danes, who use the service to commute from their home in the suburbs to their office or workplace in central Copenhagen. Thus the service suffers from peak traffic in the hours between 7 - 9 AM and 4 - 6 PM. However, for the casual tourist only the main stations in Copenhagen will be of interest. These are all connected to the same rail line. Travelling from Copenhagen Central Station ("København H") the stations are as follows:
Vesterport (Hotel area, Cinemas, The lakes, The Tycho Brahe Planetarium)
Nørreport (Underground station, "Strøget", "Rosenborg")
Østerport (The little mermaid, "Nyboder", Langelinie where the cruise ships anchor up)
S-trains passing through the central station will reach any of these stations, and you can travel between them on a single two-zone ticket. Do not however attempt to travel on these trains without a valid ticket or Copenhagen Card. Conductors regularly perform spot checks and if you get caught without a ticket you will be liable to pay a fee of 500 Danish Kroner (67 euro).
Geography: All of the Copenhagen metropolitan area
Season: All year round
Characteristics: Fast, cheap and mostly comfortable except in peak hours or if you ride one of the older trains
Recommended for: Daytrips to the suburbs of Copenhagen or commuting to and from your cheap motel in the suburbs
http://ptt.dsb.dk/cgi-bin/query-p2w.exe/en?
7. Copenhagen City Bikes
A unique feature of Copenhagen traffic is the important role played by the bicycle. The local authorities have it as part of their traffic policy to actively improve the conditions for bicyclists in the central Copenhagen area, and this is clearly visible by the many dedicated bicycle lanes along the streets of the city. It has become an inseparable part of the everyday culture of living in Copenhagen to be part of the bicycling movement.
Extending this unique part of Copenhagen traffical culture, tourists are now given a chance to participate in this healthy and environmentally friendly phenomenon: An independent foundation has managed in co-operation with private sponsors and the local authorities to establish the "Copenhagen City Bike Scheme", whereby more than 2.500 bicycles are made available for use by tourists and citizens freely in the period between 15th May and 15th December of each year. In order to use these bicycles you need first to find one of 125 racks distributed across the inner city, and when you find a rack with a bike available, you should insert a Danish coin representing the value of 20 Danish Kroner (2,50 euro) in a special slot. This will release the bike, which you may then take anywhere within the city centre. Remember to return the bike to a rack and recollect your 20 Kroner deposit.
The City Bike foundation has a web page, where you can read more about the concept and also see a map of the area within which you may take the bike. Additionally, the foundation operates a 24 hour telephone hotline, which may be reached by dialing 80 30 14 34.
Former President Clinton of the United States of America was awarded a special, honorary city bike (City Bike One) on his state visit to Denmark and Copenhagen back in 1997. In 1999 then mayor of the city of New York, Rudolph Giuliani was the second dignitary to receive a Copenhagen Citybike especially made for him.
Geography: City centre
Season: From late spring until late autumn
Characteristics: Relatively fast, free but not the most comfortable ride
Recommended for: Getting around the city centre quickly
http://www.bycyklen.dk/engelsk/frameset.html
8. Bicycle Rickshaws
If you favour the environmentally friendly and laid back approach of cycling around Copenhagen, yet have more money than energy, the Bicycle Rickshaws may be something for you. From pick up spots strategically placed around the city centre these guys will take you anywhere in Copenhagen, although they are at their best when it comes to the typical tourist journeys such as between hotel and the first sight of the day and vice versa.
Since the summer of 2002 Copenhagen has been able to offer tours of the city in the so-called bicycle rickshaws. Three different companies offer this service and their product as well as their rates are quite dissimilar. The companies are as follows:
Copenhagen Rickshaw (original far east rickshaws adapted to Danish conditions, price: Negotiable)
Quickshaw (the Danish Christiania bicycle, where passengers ride in front of the driver, price: Like ordinary taxis)
Copenhagen Bicycle Taxi (modern, aero-dynamic bikes from Germany, price: 35 Danish Kroner/kilometre)
Geography: City centre and inner boroughs
Season: From spring until late autumn
Characteristics: Slow, moderately expensive but quite comfortable and with a great view
Recommended for: Those typical tourist trips from one sight to another or to and from your hotel
Phone numbers:
Quickshaw 70 20 13 75
Copenhagen Rickshaw: 35 43 01 22
http://www.quickshaw.biz/CPH/UK/
9. The Harbour Bus
The recently established "Harbour bus" consists at the moment of two mini-shuttle ferries, which sail back and forth between various sites along the rapidly developing inner harbour. The itinerary starts at present behind Christiansborg (Parliament), next to the Royal Library, and it will bring you to such exciting places as "Holmen" (a decommissioned naval base, which is now home to the Royal Academy of the Arts; The Danish Movie School - cradle of the Dogma 95 movement; The future Opera house, which will be the largest in Scandinavia; other culturally-oriented educational institutions as well as a small selection of open-air cafes and restaurants. It is situated right next to the infamous "Christiania") and "Nyhavn" with the many popular pubs and restaurants. The harbour bus is part of the public transportation scheme, and is operated by the Public Bus Services. This means that you can take a ½ hour ride in the harbour channel from the Black Diamond to the area just south of the Little Mermaid for around 26 Danish Kroner (3,50 euro). This ride is also interesting because it will give you an impression of the latest developments of the Copenhagen skyline, which has taken place mainly along the waterfront.
Geography: Connects the City Centre of Copenhagen with the eastern islet of Holmen
Season: All year round - but sensitive to harsh weathers
Characteristics: Fast for travel directly from the west bank to the east bank of the inner harbour, slow for all other purposes; cheap and comfortable except in heavy seas
Recommended for: Quick journeys across the inner harbour, visiting Christiania or getting an overview of the inner harbour
http://www.ht.dk/tempfiles/155.asp#hbus
10. Car Rental
It is of course also possible to rent your own car through any of the international rental agencies. Hertz, Avis and Europcar all have offices in the area situated next to Vesterport Station. You may also be interested in knowing that there is a low-budget car rental agency called "Lej et lig" (Rent a wreck), which will rent you a car at a price of 350 Danish Kroner per day (47 euro).
Geography: All of the Copenhagen Metropolitan area
Season: All year round
Characteristics: Fast except during hours of peak traffic, very expensive but also quite comfortable
Recommended for: Daytrips out of Copenhagen
http://www.lejetlig.dk (in Danish only)
http://www.europcar.dk/uk-net/uk_start.html
http://www.avis.dk (English on-line booking form available)
http://www.hertzdk.dk (in Danish only)
11. On Foot
Finally, you may choose to walk your way around the city. To be honest, although Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, it is still a city small enough to cover from one end to the other on foot, if you are in reasonably good shape and not in the company of small children or the elderly. One very special part of Copenhagen, which you can only reach by foot is "Strøget". This is claimed to be the oldest pedestrianised street in any capital of the world. It also used to be the longest. Strøget stretches from the City Hall Square to the King's New Square, and along the way you will be treated to a large variety of Copenhagen's fascinating old buildings, as well as a multitude of shops, street musicians and comedians.
In general, it is safe and pleasant to enjoy Copenhagen on foot. The sidewalks are generally wide enough to accommodate pedestrians safely, and the added buffer of the bicycle lane ensures that children have a certain safety distance before they risk coming too close to car traffic. However, you need also to be careful about the bicycles that are actually using the bicycle lanes.
There are plenty of safe zebra crossings regulated by traffic light around the city, so you should usually not have any problems crossing even heavily trafficked roads. Do be aware, however, that crossing a street at a red light is generally frowned upon and is certainly not as common a sight as in most other large cities of the world.
Recommended for: Exploring the city centre
Conclusion
I have now covered the major means of transportation within the Copenhagen area. Hopefully, you will have gotten the impression that one of the major advantages of the city of Copenhagen compared to many other capitals of Europe is the great freedom of choice for the individual in determining how to get from one point to the other. Unlike in many other big cities, it is seldom factors such as congestion or fear of being run over that determine one's decisions regarding means of transportation.
Other Links
Wonderful Copenhagen
http://www.woco.dk
Copenhagen This Week
http://www.ctw.dk
Visiting Copenhagen
http://www.aok.dk/Copenhagen/Visiting_Copenhagen/
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Epinions.com ID: knilaus
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Member: Kristoffer Nilaus Olsen
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About Me: Just out of temporal stasis.
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