California Pizza Kitchen + PF Chang's = Zao's
Written: May 02 '05 (Updated May 02 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Zao is fast (on a good day), variety of Asian food, relatively cheap.
Cons: Also - Zao is relatively bland, not authentic, and very chain.
The Bottom Line: Zao Noodle Bar in Emeryville is 50% good.
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| megugrrrl's Full Review: Zao Noodle Bar |
"That's a fake Chinese food!", he whispered, just loud enough for me to overhear, as he reached for his son's shoulder. He was guiding him away from Zao's outdoor eating area, where my friend and I sat. I couldn't tell if he was giving me a look of wonder or pity. But, really, it's no ancient secret - Zao's is not authentic Asian. It's watered down like chain food typically is - like PF Chang's and CPK. (I ate at the Zao Noodle Bar in Everyville's AMC 16 Megalopoplex - where they happen to also have a CPK and PF Chang's... coincidence?)
The concept of Zao's Noodle Bar is moderately-priced, healthy, and fast Pan-Asian. In many ways, that's what you get. The menu is varied enough so that everyone can find a favorite, and seems to be heavy on the Thai, Chinese, and Vietnamese influence. Current food trends are also closely followed, as evidenced by low-carb offerings, meal-sized salads, vegetarian options, kid selections (aka for those with "simple tastes" - I don't get that one), and some culinary creations. It's got a typical chain menu structure with starters, salads, "entrees" (which at Zao Noodle Bar translates to noodle or rice dishes) libations and desserts.
For me the food is hit or miss. If we're basing things strictly on authenticity, most things miss by a meter - but food doesn't really have to be authentic to be considered good. If we're basing things strictly on taste/preparation, things were as I mentioned - hit or miss. There seems to be a 50% chance for a thumbs up.
Haps on the Apps
Take, for example, our appetizers - the first time we ordered two, exactly 50% of the appetizers were good, the other half bad. The Minced Chicken in Lettuce Cups ($6) v. the Zao Specialty Chicken Summer Rolls (also around $6.) Winner? Summer rolls. The lettuce cups were just overpowered by the tasteless wetness of the iceburg lettuce - couldn't enjoy any garlic hoisin sauced chicken promised by the menu. A few restaurants offer lettuce cups - but to do this right, you have to have a more intense flavor punch waiting inside the lettuce - like Korean bbq and kimchi - that would be much better in a lettuce cup. Incidentally, the Summer Rolls were quite good - better than you'd find in a neighborhood Chinese restaurant.
For a whopping $3.50, you can get a small bowl of edamame (boiled soybeans) - which is always addictive, particularly since they spice it with some gently spicy niceness. Still though, it's a small amount of soybean for $3.50.
Entrees
One thing to avoid at all cost is the Simple Chicken (around $7) - it was simple bland. No, ridiculously bland. I added soy sauce, Siracha (that rooster sauce), their fish sauce blend*, and it was still too bland. What's worse? The mein - egg noodles - held a weird soft consistency, kind of like over cooked angel hair pasta. My favorite thing about mein is its springy texture and so this was simple disappointment. I honestly can't see how anyone would enjoy this, as a bowl of plain white rice has more personality than Simple Chicken.
Don't worry, not everything is bland. Their Green Curry with Chicken ($10) is served with jasmine rice on a gigiantic plate, and is quite tasty - Chunks of moist chicken with bamboo shoots and peas in a flavorful coconut milk green curry. I've never met a Thai curry I didn't like. Another dish to try is the Ginger-Garlic Chili Prawns and Chicken - it's tossed with veggies and thick rice noodles - and is also recommended. The tastes are interesting and strong and go very well together - everyone will want a bite. Both were simply pleasant dishes.
My favorite dish (ok - so my 50% rule doeesn't quite hold...) is the Monk's Vegetarian Delight ($9) - It's just veggies and tofu stir fried with more fat noodles - but it's really quite tasty - I suspect it's nothing fancier than sesame oil, sweet rice wine, and the goodness of the onions, zucchini, beans and squash... I get this everytime I go to Zao.
Desserts 'n Drinks
Beer and wine - herbal iced teas and Thai Iced coffee and tea. The dessert menu is just as predictable with mochi ice cream, coconut gelato and a deep fried banana offering, which I never bother with.
Service 'n Such
Horrible service. I know that the servers are probably really nice and all, but they clearly lack professional food server experience and can't cut it when the going gets tough. I'm sure if you go and there are only a handful of tables filled, you'll get decent, cookie cutter service. But the place is relatively small and usually crowded.
The decor is nice though - sleek and contemporary. Lots of blacks and reds. Dishes are plated nicely on big fancy, artsy platters.
I'd give this a weak recommend.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
megugrrrl
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Location: Oakland
Reviews written: 147
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