Buying used lenses
May 24 '01 (Updated Jul 09 '01)
The Bottom Line A great way to save money ... but don't inherit somebody else's nightmare!
Owners of cameras with interchangeable lenses - mostly but not only 35mm SLR cameras - can build up a good set of optics without having to spend a fortune. The used market has a lot to offer if you know how to go about selecting a good bargain.
Used lenses are usually much less expensive than new lenses. A good example is Leica R (35mm SLR), where a $2000+ lens when new fetches only $500 - $700 used. So, you can save a lot of money if you are careful but you can also end up with garbage.
Most camera owners are aware that the quality of the image depends mostly on the lens. This applies not only to its specifications and quality of manufacture but also to its condition, which is dependent on how well it is cared for. Problem is, with a used lens we don't usually know how badly it has been treated or to what unfriendly environments it has been exposed. All we can do, therefore, is to look for tell-tale signs of wear or damage, before deciding whether or not to buy it.
The best and safest method is to test the lens on your own camera. Does it fit your camera and lock into place properly? Beware of incompatible lenses, because many camera manufacturers have changed their lens mount designs at some point in their history. Do you get the proper displays in the viewfinder? Does the indicated focus on the lens agree with the physical distance from camera to subject?
If you can run a test film through your camera using the lens, so much the better, although this is more appropriate if buying something expensive - it seems like overkill for a $40 50mm/1.8 standard lens. Such a test will show up defects that cannot be detected by physical examination of the lens alone.
Check that the focusing, aperture selector and zoom control all work smoothly, without being too stiff or too loose. Look through the lens to see that the diaphragm opens and closes properly as you change the aperture setting. If it sticks, this is probably due to defective lubrication of the iris blades that will require the attention of a service technician. Check that all contacts, levers or cams that act as the lens/camera interface are undamaged and that the proper linkage is achieved in all your camera's operating modes.
Dents or scratches on the filter ring or lens barrel can be a sign of rough usage or accidents and could portend serious internal problems. However, it may just be superficial damage, which helps to bring down the price of the lens but makes no difference at all to its performance. Similarly, a small amount of dust inside the lens is not usually a serious problem. Lenses "breathe" when focus or zoom controls are altered and a small amount of dust is unavoidable.
Look for "cleaning marks", finger-prints, scratches and abrasions to the external glass surfaces. Modern lenses are coated, to reduce reflection and minimize flare; the coating can be damaged by negligent handling or reckless cleaning, such as with a harsh cloth or (heaven forbid) with cleaning fluid designed for spectacles.
Lenses with marks or scratches on the rear element should be avoided, as these will almost certainly degrade the image quality; minor damage to the front element, however, is not usually so bad. It's worth finding out, if you can, whether the previous owner was in the habit of protecting the front element with a lens cap, hood or filter.
The biggest and most insidious enemy of lenses is fungus. It can usually be avoided if lenses are always kept in a clean and dry place but you can't be sure how a used lens has been stored. Be suspicious if the lens has been kept in a leather container of any sort, such as attached to a camera in an "ever-ready" case or in a lens pouch. Leather can promote the growth of fungus and is actually a very bad idea for storage of cameras.
If you look through a lens with a fungus problem, you can usually make out a whitish, web-like growth, spreading across the surface of one of the inner elements. Fungus destroys the coating and can even etch the surface of the glass itself. It cannot usually be cleaned satisfactorily, so any lens with visible signs of fungous growth should be avoided.
Check, also, for any signs that the lens may have been tampered with. If there is any reason to suppose that it has been dismantled by an amateur, possibly in an attempt to clean the inner elements, then it's best avoided. The risks of missing parts, such as tiny ball bearings, or of misalignment during re-assembly, are high. A professional repair technician does not leave tell-tale signs that a lens has been dismantled but an unprofessional or amateur one often does. Any burring or scratches on the screw-heads holding the lens together are warning signs that all may not be well.
Where to buy? Well, an on-line auction site is obviously one source but it has the disadvantage that you don't get the chance to examine and test the lens before you bid. You rely entirely on the pictures that the vendor puts on the screen and the honesty and accuracy of his/her description. Personally, it's not for me, but good luck to those who use it. Buying privately is safer, provided that you get the chance to examine and test before you commit. Ask why the lens is for sale.
Buying from a reputable dealer will cost more but it's the safest way to go. Most dealers have the sense to realize that you could bring them future business and they also have their reputations to protect, so they have an interest in looking after you. Some also offer a warranty. Me, I'm conservative and prefer to pay a premium for safety's sake but your mileage may vary, as they say.
Finally, don't feel guilty about buying a used lens. It may seem strange but some people develop a strong sense of loyalty toward their chosen camera manufacturer and feel that they should do something to support the company. However, buying a used lens, in many cases, enables the vendor to buy a new replacement, so the manufacturer does, in fact, benefit indirectly. It's all part of the buying chain. I'll admit that I, for one, could not afford to own the set of lenses I need if I bought only new ones.
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