When we visited Istanbul in May of 2000, I was tempted to book our stay at the incomparable Çiragan Palace Hotel or the Four Season's renovated prison, but neither seemed able to provide quite the atmosphere I was seeking. I didn't want to stay at a luxurious hotel which could be equally luxurious anywhere else in world, but at a luxurious hotel that was undeniably Turkish, past and present.

The Yesil Ev was exactly what I was looking for. The restored Ottoman mansion of the Minister of Monopolies, the hotel is beautifully appointed in the style of the era. Antiques, gorgeous carpets, brass and polished wood abounds. The hotel overlooks one of the few streets in Istanbul open only to pedestrian traffic. The sounds from the nearby Blue Mosque, passerby's outside and wind through the trees only add to the surroundings. The hotel staff is very gracious and accommodating, making one feel like a private guest rather than a customer. We had the pleasure of staying in the Pasha suite, which is large and airy. The suite overlooks the street in front with a myriad of large, wooden shuttered and lace curtained windows and is furnished with many more antique carpets, crystal lamps and chandeliers, an antique white and gold French bedroom suite and the ubiquitous mini-bar. In addition to the small bathroom with shower is an impressive marble and mosaic tiled private hammam, which I was happy to make use of. It certainly proved an interesting alternative to my morning shower! I also enjoyed calling home on the old "stick-style" telephone which accompanies the modern touch pad one; that thing is heavy!

The hotel also boasts a very good restaurant where meals can be taken in the restaurant, outside in the lovely and fragrant garden, or if the weather is chilly in the glass conservatory outside. All are equally good choices, but I have to admit that there is something about relaxing outside and listening to the burble of the pink marble fountain.

All of the main highlights of Sultanahmet are within easy walking distance, if not directly next door. The hotel is situated among many local artisan shops and is next door to the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Textiles Museum and Topkapi Palace. The Hippodrome, Basilica Cistern and Grand Bazaar are also nearby. I don't believe it is possible to be better situated.

Recommended: Yes