Northern Italy Trip Summary
Jun 15 '01 (Updated Feb 02 '02)
The Bottom Line We have been to Europe 4 times and this was the best trip, yet. Great food, history, culture and wonderful people made this trip really memorable. We'll go back, soon.
Hi folks!
We just returned from 3+ weeks in Northern Italy. We flew out of SFO on May 7 on Lufthansa and returned from Milan on 5/29.
The trip itinerary included Munich, Venice, Florence, Cortona (Tuscany & Umbria regions), Cinque Terre (part of the UNICEF World Heritage Parks), Lake Como, Gavi (a quality wine producing region near Genoa) and Milan. The following are some quick impressions:
Driving: Italians (and Europeans in general) drive very fast. The Autostrada (toll roads) or other major, regular and non-toll roads, are not a place for the faint-of-heart, novice or casual driver. They drive very fast and the typical American driver/passenger will be shocked at the clearance between vehicles at the high speeds commonly encountered daily. This, I believe, is a form of "natural selection" or "survival of the fittest." If you drive fast in Italy (or France or Germany) you must be alert and skilled or you die. It's about that simple. You also learn very quickly that the left lane is for passing, only. If you linger out there, there will be someone on your rear bumper that appeared out of nowhere. American "brain dead" drivers that stay in the left lane at home will be frightened out of their wits even if they are driving at high speeds (120 mph+) by how quickly they will be overtaken and passed once you realize they are behind you. There are posted speed limits (110 KPH on the Autostrada) but no one heeds them. And, we saw no evidence of attempts at speed enforcement. The only time we saw police on the roads was at the scene of an accident.
In Italy, they don't do the stupid things we do here because they apparently have the will to live. So, you don't see idiots yakking on the cell phone or drinking coffee or putting on make up or reading the newspaper. They have both hands on the wheel and their mind is concentrating on driving. Our Rental car had no cup holders and the vehicles I looked at and rode in did not have them, either. They also do not believe in cruise control. They want to maintain total control of the vehicle at all times. There is little margin for errors at 120+ mph. Driving is serious business in their eyes. We Americans take it much more casually. And, I heard no kids with hyped up sound systems; I saw no rear view mirrors tilted at crazy angles for make up artists; virtually no SUVs - too big for the narrow roads and far too unstable for the speeds they drive. It was truly refreshing. ALL vehicles have pivoted, fold-back side mirrors. More than once, we had to fold them down to squeeze between another vehicle and the wall or post or curb of a narrow street. And, there are tons of motor scooters and motorcycles.
The roads are in wonderful shape. They are clean - no debris, separated tire treads, gravel, auto parts, etc. They also do not have potholes! Hitting one at those speeds would be a disaster. The cars have no pits in the paint or windshields from gravel and other debris so common on our roads.
When I talk about the high skill level of the Italian drivers, that does not mean they are necessarily the best or safest drivers. They pass on narrow roads despite blind corners and dips in the road. It is very unnerving to see another vehicle approaching you, head-on and at a high rate of speed in your own lane! So, again vigilance is an absolute necessity at all times.
When renting a rental car, it's best to make the arrangements here in the U.S. before departure for lowest rates. Take the optional/additional insurance. It's worth it. Even if you are covered by your Gold or Platinum credit card, it has to be the "primary" coverage on the rental vehicle before you are secure. And, unlike Hertz/Avis/National here in the U.S., they go over the car with a fine tooth comb upon return and you will be charged for road dings, missing parts or pieces that might not have been there to begin with, scratches/chips on the paint, etc., things the U.S. rental companies usually ignore and we take for granted. If you take the optional insurance, you will be completely covered and free from worry.
Personal Safety: We never felt uneasy about personal safety in any of the places we visited. I believe we are always at risk for thieves when we travel. We took specific precautions (wore money belts; maintained awareness of surroundings and people; used ATMs for daily cash; observed the local customs; tried to keep a low profile; etc. In effect, we tried not to be an easy target. We never felt uneasy about bodily harm in the dark or narrow streets of Venice or any of the places. They don't seem to do that. Their style is to pick pockets, grab purses and those kinds of things.
Service: We were really impressed with the service folks. All the wait staff worked hard to do their jobs well and efficiently. Tipping is minimal in restaurants. Cab drivers were very courteous and extremely honest. The maids cleaning the rooms were equally diligent. We never had any bad experiences with service. I even experienced several instances where they refused a tip - a pride issue. BTW, when dinning in Europe, the diner is the one that decides when the meal is finished. They will not bring you the check until you ask for it. And, they truly do not hurry you through the meal. There is no pressure to "turn the table" for more revenue. So be prepared for 2-hr. dinners and 1.5 hr. lunches.
Food: We were really blown away at how different the food was in Northern Italy. It is so different from Italian food in the U.S., I had to make some inquiries. First, the flavors are so much more delicate and subtle in Italy and, secondly, the foods vary from region to region much in the same way that the foods of Normandy are far different from Paris, Province or Lyon even though they may only be 100 miles apart. The flavorings are far more delicate there than here because they rely on the individual flavors to meld with the freshest quality ingredients for wonderful flavors. As an example, I was never really much of a pesto fan until I had it in Italy on this trip. It was so much more mild and the flavors other than pesto were allowed to show through - the pasta, the vegetables, the olive oil, etc. could be tasted. Here, the pesto is overpowering. Ditto with our use of garlic - way too much. Ditto with tomato sauce and the use of oregano. It's almost as if we want to bury or hide the flavor of the veal, vegetables or other things instead of using the flavors in a cooperative or enhancing manner. It's almost as if we want to overpower the palate and shock with a strong taste. We loved the delicacy and the subtle flavors. The sauces were intriguingly simple. We had one of the best tasting sauces for a beef fillet that I have ever had and they took me back into the kitchen to show me how they made it - only 3 ingredients - mustard,
some cream and a pinch of tarragon. I thought it was going to be something really exotic and complicated. Nope, they threw it together in about 30 seconds in a small saucepan!
Dining Out: One thing one has to get used to is the way they order in restaurants. The menus are basically a la carte. They do have the dishes in sections - Appetizers, Primi, Secondi, Main, Desserts, wines, drinks, etc. Also, salad is usually served last, if ordered. They do have a Menu Touristico which is like a Price Fixe menu of the day and will usually be a 3-course meal. Typically, we ended up ordering a Primi (first course) and a Secondi (second) and sharing them. The concept of sharing, however is somewhat unfamiliar to them. But it was fine and it was the only way we could avoid over-eating. Also, diners eat very late - some restaurants don't even open until 8 or 8:30 PM. We finished dinner at 12:30 AM, twice during our trip. And, as I mentioned before, dinner can be a 3-hr. experience. Wine is good and cheap - less costly than a Diet Coke (actually called Coke Light). Ice for drinks is not a standard with them. You have to ask for it and some places are not equipped to provide it. Coffee is always Expresso unless you specify it otherwise. If you don't want expresso, ask for Coffee Americano and they will dilute it with hot water but it will still be strong but good. And, there are no free refills for coffee or soft drinks. When asking for bottled water, you will be asked "gas or no gas" - meaning carbonation.
Culture: The food, the people, the history and the natural resources combine to bring about a culture that is quite unique in Europe. The other cultures are much more organized/disciplined. The Italians are much more relaxed and easy going. Italy is not a good place for "Type A" personalities. Things are seldom clear and schedules constantly change or are ignored. The language is very close to Spanish and the family entity is alive and well. Generations tend to stay within the area (like most of Europe) and it is really nice to see whole families get together, frequently. And, they dress extremely well. The fashion aspect is very important to Italian life. The men and women dress extremely well and are very natty in the cities.
It is really nice to see whole families staying together. It is not unusual for generations to remain on the property or very close by. Families work, dine and play together. On weekends, you will see kids, including teenagers, with their parents biking, hiking, playing or picnicking in the parks and plazas. And, something else we noticed, the kids in public places do not screech in a piercing way or throw temper tantrums. They seem very well behaved. We experienced no ruined dinners in restaurants due to screeching, unruly kids. She tends to think it might be a function that the parents spend more time with the kids instead of ignoring them as many American parents do. Or, is it possible that American parents are largely deaf? So, maybe the Italian kids don't feel the need to be the center of attention if they are not ignored frequently.
Smoking: Smoking is prevalent all over Europe. However, it seemed to be even worse in Italy. We observed constant chain-smoking by diners in restaurants. And, there were very few places that had non-smoking sections. We also experienced pipe and cigar smoke in restaurants. Fortunately, in most cases, we were almost finished with our meals before smokers would come in and be seated near us. We dined one night in a small restaurant in a small town in Umbria, Chiusi. The staff spoke no English but we were able determine that the owner wanted show us their wine cellar. He took us down and it turned out to be Roman ruins. It was incredible. And they don't make a big deal out of it. He was more proud of his wine than the antiquity of the ruins.
History: We in the U.S. are really devoid of any ancient history. Everywhere we went, when we asked about anything, it seems to have started back in the 11th or 12th century! Their ability to meld ancient architecture with modern technology is amazing. We often visited, dined or stayed in places that were 300+ years old but they were comfortable and had modern conveniences and mandated safety features. In the museums, castles, villas, forts, and walled cities, it was simply amazing.
People: The people are extremely warm and friendly. We almost always felt welcome even when there was a serious language problem. At the end of the trip, we attended a 2-day retirement party near Genoa for a friend of ours that had Italian relatives that spoke no English. There was great love and welcome obvious to all the Americans. They even had a big cake for us that was decorated with "Welcome Americans." They really took to us everywhere and treated us royally. When it came to say goodbye, it took quite a while to accomplish this feat. I am now very familiar with the Italian custom of being bussed on both cheeks!
Air Pollution: Italy is a beautiful country but it is marred by air pollution. Even on the beautiful Lake Como (reminded me of Lake Tahoe but more beautiful because the mountains are taller and with the glaciers of the Alps in the background) it was very evident and this was very early in the season. I would hate to see it at the height of the summer season. The smog is a product of so much diesel particulate - trucks, buses and cars. Also, agricultural burning is unrestricted.
Italian Time: Retail stores (except those catering to the tourists and restaurants) are close Sundays and do not open until 3 PM on Monday. They, typically, close from 1 PM to 2:30 or 3 PM for lunch. They are usually open until 7 or 7:30 PM. But, they don't always stick to the posted hours. Train, bus and boat schedules are not always met. They can change or delete times without notice and do so without any sort of guilt. If punctuality, precise and finite operating standards and procedures are important to you, don't go to Italy!
Miscellaneous: The gelato is out of this world. It is extremely popular and very inexpensive. In Florence, I counted 14 shops selling gelato in a distance of 2 blocks, both sides of the street! It has to be good since the competition is so keen. The red wines are wonderfully full bodied and soft with no after taste - and very inexpensive. Limoncello is a marvelous lemon liqueur served chilled - try it, you'll like it. Grappa is another dessert drink but it's very high in alcohol content, so beware.
We really had a good time. I highly recommend Italy as a destination to anyone interested in good food and wonderful people.
Jim & Joyce
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