Most Motor Inns I have had the pleasure or, shall I say, displeasure of calling home for a night or two, have provided 3* accommodations at best. They normally don't boast magnificent views of mountains or the sea (certainly not both), the rooms rarely exceed what I would consider 'generic', and few, if any, are associated with first class restaurants.

Well, this is New Zealand, and things in this 'upside down' world are often delightfully different. And the White Morph Motor Inn in Kaikoura is just that!

Ideally located just across the street from the ocean (Pacific) on The Esplanade, the neat looking 3-story white-washed building looks inviting enough, but it doesn't particularly stand out from its surroundings. And, it is certainly not the most expensive, nor the cheapest, of the variety of accommodations available on this pretty stretch of road.

We checked in as a group of 12. There was nothing to sign, no credit card to swipe, our guides just handed us the keys, and we were off to our room. Viva simplicity - life 'down under' is far less complicated in so many ways!

The only thing reminding me of the typical 'Motor Inn' was the fact that all rooms are accessed from the outside. But, once inside, any thoughts of 'typical' quickly faded away. The rooms are extremely spacious, ours had a queen-size bed, love seat, table and 2 chairs, TV, ironing board, and a nice little kitchenette with microwave, small fridge/minibar, complimentary coffee, a selection of teas, milk, even cookies. The bathroom is tiled with a huge glass shower, plenty of towels, towel heater (they know what's important in N.Z.!), hair dryer, and a good supply of shampoo, body lotion, and soap.

First floor rooms have a large sliding glass door leading to a patio, with somewhat limited views of the ocean. The views are much better from the balconies of the 2nd and 3rd floor rooms but we had to settle for the lesser, which was fine considering our action-packed schedule. I normally don't like ground-floor rooms for safety reasons but nothing we encountered in New Zealand ever provoked those kind of thoughts, so not to worry!

Whale-watching (Sperm Whales) and seal-swimming are the two main attractions in Kaikoura, which sits on a small peninsula about half-way between Blenheim and Christchurch, on the East Coast of the South Island. But there are plenty of other activities offered as well, such as great hiking, sea kayaking, diving, and bird watching. Being out and about all day often calls for the use of laundry facilities and the White Morph Motor Inn does provide them (washer/dryer $2 each, detergent $1). There is even an outdoor clothes line, if you are so inclined.

You can make use of the Internet kiosk at reception which is a little cheaper than the 15 cents per minute in-room rate ($2.50 for 15 min., $4 for 30 min., and 7.50/hr).

Check-in is 12 noon, check-out 10 a.m. Avoid a late check-out at all cost since there is a hefty charge of $30 per hour. Ouch!

What made these accommodations extra special for us was the White Morph Restaurant, located immediately next door. It specializes in Pacific-rim cuisine, the atmosphere is fantastic (great water and mountain views), and the food superb. The building was originally a bank and the old safe is still in place, surrounded by a lively bar. Kaikoura is all about crayfish (spiny lobster), and even though a crayfish meal is slightly cheaper downtown, the spectacular setting here warrants the few extra dollars. Expect to pay $45 for 1/2 crayfish and double for the whole thing! Typical of all of New Zealand's restaurants, you can expect a 5* presentation. Other choices are much more reasonable, of course, but you can't come to Kaikoura and not try the lobster, at least once! The name 'Kaikoura' came from the native Maori. 'Kai' means 'food', and 'koura' means 'crayfish', suggesting that they harvested this delicacy from the sea already centuries ago.

The area is fringed by the impressive Seaward Kaikoura Mountain Range, and the combination of rugged coastline and tall mountain peaks make for a dramatic setting. Add a rich marine-life, and no wonder this is a popular destination, making it all the more important to make advanced reservations during peak season.

The staff in the lobby is extremely helpful and friendly (like all Kiwis), which includes area information or help with booking various activities. While at the reception desk, pick up one (or several) of the tri-fold panoramic post-cards of the area ($2), they are absolutely magnificent! Every so often, I look at mine and have to pinch myself, to realize that I was really there!

Last, but not least, just up the road from the Inn you can enjoy a most entertaining sheep-sheering demonstration, then follow the farmer to the pasture up on a scenic plateau, and watch those talented sheep-dogs perform their herding skills.

The White Morph certainly managed to re-define the word 'Motor Inn'. It just goes to show you, one should never assume anything, especially traveling abroad!

P.S. All prices are quoted in N.Z. Dollars, check for current exchange rates. At the time of our visit, 1 N.Z.$ equalled .73 U.S.$






Recommended: Yes