Banh Mi is Dope, yo! Soothsayer’s NYC Vietnamese Sandwich Guide
Jul 08 '01
The Bottom Line Bánh Mì, or the Vietnamese sandwich, is a perfect summertime snack food -- crispy, light and delicious.
It’s summertime and it is hot outside. You know the story. You don’t want to eat something heavy that will end up in your stomach soaking up the acids, so what is tasty, lightweight, and satisfying at the same time? The perfect summer food just might be bánh mě, the Vietnamese sandwich.
These sandwiches are a culinary marriage of French technique, Chinese ingredients, and Vietnamese ingenuity; the remnants of failed colonialism and influence on Vietnam and its proud people.
It is an explosion of flavors combining just enough meat, sweet carrots, icy cucumbers, fresh cilantro, and hot chilies. The key also is having the flavors contrast and play off each other. Another key ingredient is the slightly toasted, and buttered baguettine (small baguette). Although an ordinary French baguette can be used, Vietnamese baguettes have some rice flour mixed in to give the bread a lighter texture, and crispier crust.
For something light and summery, these sandwiches are perfect. Add a cool drink and you are set. The places listed here are small shops specializing only on sandwiches even though you may be able to get a sandwich from a Vietnamese restaurant with a full menu.
Saigon Bánh Mě
88 East Broadway Mall, Unit#108.
New York, NY. 10002
(At Forsyth Street between Division St. and East Broadway)
212 941 1541
A crowd of people crowds this tiny storefront in the shadow of the Manhattan Bridge, and with good reason; this shop makes one of the best bánh mě in the city. They make only one style; all you have to do order how many you want, and whether or not you want it spicy.
I saw the skill involved in making these sandwiches, and was impressed. Coarsely chopped char siu (barbeque pork) is heated to crispiness and stuffed into a toasted baguettine along with a slice of pâté, and julienne vinegar-pickled carrots and daikon radish. The cucumber spears are firm and crunchy, and cut minutes before use.
When I sat down and I bit into my sandwich, I was happy for a moment. I found the crust very crispy and flaky. The char siu was toasty and sweet with the veggies providing a subtle, salty flavor. It was crunchy deliciousness, that is, until I discovered the jalapenos. These are evil. Apparently, I bit into several, and before I knew it, I was in tears with my mouth on fire. I had to look around to make sure I was not being pepper sprayed by the NYPD. Pickled veggies only worsen the pain. It’s probably better to pick out most of the jalapenos before you bite into one of these sandwiches. Bánh mě is 2.75.
Rating: 4 stars out of 5.
An Đông
5424 8th Avenue (on the corner of 55th Street).
Brooklyn, NY. 11220
718 972 2269
Located along a mile-wide stretch of 8th Avenue in Brooklyn is a burgeoning Chinatown simply called (in Chinese) “8th Avenue” by the locals (see footnote). The pace of life here is a little more genteel than in Manhattan, but that’s not to say things are slow. Far from it, there is a good deal of traffic and shopping along the avenue just like in the other Chinatowns.
As I got off the N train and walked up 8th avenue, I kept my eye open for any Vietnamese places. I counted only three, including the sandwich shop listed in my notes. The corner store was large and spacious, yet curiously empty except for a few video game machines – I wonder how low their rent was.
I decided to get bánh mě dac biet, the house special, and it was very tasty. It was stuffed with slices of pork, ham, and liver pâté. The taste reminded me of a Cuban sandwich, only this one had onions, carrots, cilantro and cucumber spears to complete the mix.
The only thing lacking was crunchiness, but overall an excellent sandwich. The house special bánh mě is $2.50. Others are $2.25. There is no English menu.
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
Footnote:
The number “8” is a Chinese homonym for the word “fortune” or “lucky”. Wouldn’t you think it fortuitous to have a business located on “Fortune Street”? Incidentally, the number “9” sounds like the word for “dog", so now you know what my email is about.
Vietnam Bánh mě So 1
369 Broome Street (west of Mott Street).
New York, NY.
212 219 8341
This tidy little shop on a quiet Little Italy street serves up a good Vietnamese sandwich here in NY. Mr. Nyugen, the owner, tells me that there is another good place in Boston, and a type of love-hate relationship -- best reserved for debating cheese steaks, bagels, pizza, Mets and Yankees -- has sprouted up between fans of both sides.
Behind the counter, Mrs. Nyugen prepares the sandwiches. The special pâté sandwich, $2.50, with slices of Vietnamese style luncheon meat, chili sauce and fixings is good. The flavors all come together quite well, with a spiciness that is not overwhelming. Although their pâté sandwich is good, their pork sandwich was not; it contained bright red hunks of bland char siu.
Be sure not to pass up the freshly squeezed juices that are available. Juices are squeezed on demand. They have fresh sugar cane (with an optional squeeze of lime). Carrot, grapefruit, and orange juice are also available along with chunkier concoctions like lychee, or three bean. A 16 oz cup is $1.50-$1.75.
Rating: 3.5 stars out of 5.
Bánh Mě Sáu Voi Café
101-105 Lafayette Street (on the corner of Walker Street).
New York, NY.
212 226 8184
Located downtown near the court district, this little place caters to all the cogs toiling away the legal system and to the shop stall owners in and around Canal Street. The café is tiny, no more than a deli counter located inside a busy and cramped newspaper store. It is so cramped, you can buy a sandwich, turn around without moving from your spot and buy lotto and a newspaper.
There are many sandwiches listed on the menu, but really boil down to three or four main ingredients, Chinese-style ham, pâté, and turkey. The sandwiches are slightly heavy tasting due to the greater use of mayonnaise, and a lot of raw carrots, but include miniature green chilies (sliced lengthwise in half) as part of the fixings to ratchet up the heat; you have to ask them for the chilies. The sandwiches are ok, $2.50. There are also some prepackaged desserts, and drinks available.
Rating: 2 stars out of 5.
Nem
Grand Central Station, lower concourse level.
Ever since the renovations, Grand Central Station has become more than a transit point to catch the Metro-North up the Hudson, or into Connecticut. It has become a place to linger, to shop, and to dine before departing on your train. Many food vendors are located in the lower concourse selling gourmet snacks ranging from dim sum, to custard ice cream. All are good, speedy alternatives to fast food.
Among the food counters is Nem, serving Asian inspired cuisine. Ready-made sample plates are displayed to help in your decision. Among the selections is an inspired version of bánh mě they call, what else, a Vietnamese Sandwich. It is not authentic bánh mě, but it looks like a well-made sandwich all the same. A length of soft buttered ciabatta is used instead of a crispy Vietnamese baguettine. It is filled with charcoal grilled meats like shrimp, or pork; and as a final touch, roasted tomatoes are added along with the requisite carrots, cucumbers, and cilantro. I did not see any chili paste or chili pods anywhere.
To be truthful, I did not try any of these amusing Vietnamese-style recreations, but they did look really good, and I would certainly do so next time I am hungry and waiting for a train at Grand Central. Price for a “Vietnamese sandwich” is $6.00-$6.50.
Rating: Unrated.
Other banh mi shops I have not yet tried…
are in places like Flushing, and Elmhurst.
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