While reading many Travel magazines and the news in the early 2000s one name came up often, Vieques. The US Navy controlled nearly 80% of the island and used it as a training base including for artillery practice.

As of 2003 the US Navy has given most of the land rights to the US Fish and Wildlife Service. This in effect has opened up miles and miles of natural habitat and unspoiled beaches to the public. The island is about twice the size of Manhattan. Here's the closest pronunciation I can try to give you for Vieques. Vee-ay'-cays

This doesn't mean it's easy to see it all. Most of the roads within the nature preserve are dirt roads and not well maintained. Some holes are bigger than a crater left from a military shell shot from a WWII battle ship and when it rains you can't tell where that crater begins and ends.

Having said that, this is definitely a place to visit. My wife and I loved the island that, even as a laid back and comparatively little known and visited destination, still has a lot to offer in restaurants and comfortable places to lodge. We stayed at the Wyndham Martineau Bay that was high on personal service, good food, and offered two beautiful and desolate beaches. We were there in April and it was off season. It was rated as one of the worlds top ten resorts in 2003 and is listed in Connoissseur's Guide To the Worlds Best Resorts and Great Hotels, Where to Stay in 2005, edition. Another magazine, Caribbean Travel and Life noted on front page lines that Vieques, part of the Spanish Virgin Islands is a secret place that is "Ripe for Discovery" Many smaller and even more laid back inns and such dot the island.

Besides having the nature preserves that offer very quiet and desolate beaches the island also offers one of the best bioluminescent experiences in all the world. More later.

Getting There

My wife and I flew into San Juan a city you can get some good flight prices to. Before adventuring to other parts of the island of Puerto Rico and eventually Vieques we wanted to visit the historic Old San Jun and to participate in some night life. After a couple of days we rented a car, checked out some north-eastern shore beaches of PR and made our way to the El Conquistador Resort in the Town of Fajardo. It's in Fajardo where one can get a ferry ride to Vieques. The boat is a large three deck vessel that has some open area and an air-conditioned lower deck. The fact is it was freezing cold.
The ride there was quite smooth. Coming back we did have some heavy winds that kicked up the water a bit but not enough to have this seasick prone guy standing over the back rails chumming.

We are told to be at the ferry station early, one hour. In both cases it was quite empty but I understand the February season when people from the north east visit the island and even more so in June and July when Puerto Ricans are free to visit, it gets pretty busy. There's also a chance that the two big ferries may not both be in working order and they use some smaller vessels at those times. Tickets are just two bucks. There is a cattle rush mentality getting onto the boat even when it was quiet with plenty of seating.

Once on the island we had transportation to the Wyndham Martineau Bay where we stayed. Taxis (Publicos)are outside the ferry area, in this small town Isabella, for other transportation needs.

Isabel Segunda and Esparanza

These are the two "happening" places on the island. Isabel is the only city-like, though tiny, area. It's a very busy town when the ferry boat comes in. The narrow streets were not designed for the traffic that moves through at this time.

We were in town when it was quieter and it is a simple place with hilly streets, small local stores, and a quite few places to eat local foods. We enjoyed walking around and speaking to the twons residents. We tried a place for breakfast that is owned by a German American woman who is helped by her Irish born husband. It was noted as a place to try in one of the travel guides we own. The name is Cafe Mammasongo and this tiny place is good on the food but low on congeniality. She took our order like a machine, not even a hello, and her hubby seems like he had a few too many tokes in the 60s. It's still worth a try.

You will not find any chain restaurants or stores on this relatively sleepy island. It's hard to believe that there is a world without McDonalds, TGI Fridays and Wal-Mart. Not even a Senior Frogs, Margaritaville, or Pat O'Brien's can be found there. Let me tell you, it was a blessing!

A drive east of about four miles gets you to Esparanza that happens to be the mecca of tourist restaurants. It's a small group of open-front small eateries with bars and assorted cuisine along a tiny two lane road. Dress is simple and one restaurant simply asks you to clean the sand off your feet and flippers before entering. Places with the names like Bananas and Trade Winds invite you in by way of tiny lights, lively crowds, and assorted aromas.

This town is definitely a place to hang out a few nights. One night, a Friday, they closed the road off and had music in the streets. The restaurants moved a few tables outside their usual confines and there was a fun party atmosphere that was shared by tourists and locals alike. Just be sure not to drink too much if you are driving. The roads are quit narrow and laced with many curves and poor signing. Even if you call a cab, put on your seatbelt. They do rent motor scooters on the island but unless you are skilled at it and have a strong heart, and tough body, I say no. Some of the ruts on the dirt roads in the preserves are huge and if you get an afternoon rain, which is always a possibility, you will have to navigate puddles of mud on the roads of the nature preserve.

Airport and New Ferry Dock

We happened to stay at the Wyndham Martineau Bay. This was a beautiful place just seven minutes from the ferry and just three minutes from the airport. That's right, if you do not want to deal with renting cars, paying high taxi fees to get from San Juan to Fajardo, or have to take a nearly one hour ferry ride each way, then just hop on a plane from San Juan. This will save you a lot of time. I heard that they are trying to get even more carriers into that airport including American Eagles. The island also seems to be preparing for more visitors in that a new pier, outside of the busy and congested ferry area of Isabella is now under construction. It seems that the island is trying to get its infrastructure ready for more visitors in the future. I say get there now before it becomes too discovered!

Back To the Beaches and Also Some Snorkeling

We rented a four wheel drive vehicle on the island. There are a few local dealers. As of now you will not find the major rental companies there. We booked a place just steps across the street from the Wyndham Hotel. In fact the concierge took care of all booking well before we arrived. With the car we were free to visit many beaches around the island. Maps are available but I do suggest that you have someone highlight some directions to some of the beaches. Do be prepared for some heavy head-banging, teeth-rattling and bone-crunching rides on the dirt roads. Many of the beaches are known by colour. There are Red, Blue, Purple and Green that I know of. This is a throw back to the Navy's names. The beaches do have other names that the locals know them by. Because of warnings we packed lightly and brought no expensive belongings to keep in a rag top Jeep. In fact they advise to keep the Jeep doors open. We never had any trouble but as in all places, it's good to be safety and security minded.

There are some businesses on the island that will take you off shore for some good snorkeling. We may try it next time we go.

This time we were on a hunt for the perfect snorkeling beach so we checked out quite a few in the little time we had. We were first told to try the pier that is just south of the airport. We found some star fish and a little sea life along the artificial reef, nothing special at all. We then took a ride to green beach. This place was beautiful. Many short pull-offs went right up to the beach. Driving on the beach with four wheel drive vehicles is not allowed. Some of these pull offs were absolutely stunning! It was like our own deserted beach. The white sand is of nice fine quality and the waters were warm, calm and clear.

The numerous turnoffs onto Green Beach all gave a different look to it. Sitting under your own palm tree with no one else around was quite a treat. Let me mention here that on most of these beaches, that are part of the preserve, there are absolutely no facilities. No rest rooms, No concession stands, No water fountains. No lifeguards, No security. No Nothin'. Well we did see a Government agency car patrolling the Green Beach area. We visited gorgeous Green Beach twice but never found any great snorkeling in the clear waters that were full of sea grass. I was told there is some localized good snorkeling there but we never discovered it.

On the way to Green Beach is a very short path along a board walk that will bring a surprisingly incredible view. You can't miss the few parking spots and signage. Take the walk and a camera. It's a Kodak moment!

The same could be said about the other beaches. We found some snorkeling on Blue beach but nothing outstanding. The day we went to Red beach it was too windy to take a swim around to the far side of a cay out about a 1/3 of a mile. We were told there is some good snorkeling there. We did find some excellent snorkeling on one part of the island but I'm saving that information for another review where it makes more sense to mention it. It will eventually be linked to this review. All the beaches afforded clean waters and comfortable swimming. Red Beach was the only one that had a good amount of people on it if you like some company. Some of the land you will drive to on the way to these beaches is still off limits do to the problem of unexploded ordinance. KEEP OUT!!

Driving to and through these beaches was fun and exciting. I know I already mentioned bone jarring to.

A Once in a Lifetime Experience

One Highlight of our trip to Vieques was a tour of Mosquito Bay, thankfully no insects were there to bother us but we did deal with one celled creatures called bioluminescent dinoflagellates. This was an amazing tour that I hope to write about in more detail in the very near future. We went out on a boat into a bay that has one of the best environments in the world for these creatures and the effects are wondrous. As you swim in the waters on a moonless night or a cloudy night the waters around your body glow brightly. Every time you come in contact with the one celled animal/plants they glow. There are over three quarter of a million in just one gallon of the water in this bay. You can even see fish as they leave a glowing trail as they swim in the waters. As you raise your hand out of the water first the glow washes down the arm and then individual bright little spots can be seen trickling down the arm and into the water. This is a once in a lifetime experience that everyone should make an effort to see.

Wild Horses

While driving the roads one must be careful of grazing horses, especially in th evening and at night. Some are wild and there are some that are let loose by their owners to graze on the government lands. Seeing young men sharing the streets in town while galloping on horseback is common. Ha, we were driving in one direction and we passed a good lookin' shirtless guy with long flowing long hair and a well defined six-pack mid section. My wife wanted me to make a quick u-turn so she could get a picture. To her dismay, it didn't happen.

Friendly People

We found the people on Vieques to be quite friendly and helpful. Many speak very good English and most understand it a bit. Only once or twice when we were asking questions did someone have to defer to another to talk to us.

One thing you will find on this island are many transplanted stateside Americans. They come down for one reason or other and then never leave. They work for others or start a small business of their own.

My wife and I may have the same happen to us the next time we go to this, as of yet, still undiscovered island.


Puerto Rico Much to offer!
The Wyndham El Conquistador Resort Puerto Rico
El Yunque, Puerto Rico's Rainforest
Vieques, Puerto Rico's Island Treasure
Island Adventures Biobay Tours
Frommer's Puerto Rico Guide

1,000 Places To See Before You Die A fun book to dream with or try to live. Two Puerto Rico Destinations are in it. Vieques is one of them.


Recommended: Yes

Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May