King Ludwig II - Eccentric, Ingenious, Or Mad?
Jul 14 '01
The Bottom Line A trip to Bavaria is not complete without visiting the magnificent castle of Neuschwanstein, 'Mad' King Ludwig's spectacular creation!
Crown Prince Ludwig was a mere 18 years old when he, after the untimely death of his father Maximilian II, ascended the Bavarian Royal Throne as King Ludwig II. Born in 1845, Ludwig spent much of his young life in his parents summer residence, the Nymphenburg Palace in Munich, and in the lavish Royal Castle of Hohenschwangau, at the foot of the majestic Alps.
The handsome young Ludwig was a dreamer, later manifested by his passionate love for building fairy tale castles. Already as a teenager, Ludwig's love for the arts became apparent. He idolized Richard Wagner, whose many stage plays such as 'Lohengrin', 'Tannhauser', and 'Tristan and Isolde' had a profound impact on him.
The role of a 'Ruler' didn't suit him, and when many of his elaborate construction plans in Munich were denied and the city even shunned his idol Richard Wagner, Ludwig became withdrawn and anti social. His brief engagement to Princess Sophie ended abruptly, only to cause his further retreat into a world of fantasy and make believe.
King Ludwig II never married, instead he became obsessed with the construction of elaborate, extravagant and fanciful castles, and no matter what one thinks of him, these now have become his legacy. Most notably, Neuschwanstein, possibly the most photographed and well known castle in all of Germany.
When you first set eyes on it, it almost doesn't seem real and one can instantly understand why Disney so readily used it as a model for Cinderella's castle. It seems to belong in a fairy tale, so magnificent with its many turrets and in the most scenic of settings. Early in the morning, when a slight mist still hangs in the valley, it makes for an almost surreal picture, as the castle rises high above the surrounding hills, in all of its glory.
Oddly enough, even after 17 years of construction, Neuschwanstein was never completely finished and Ludwig only lived there for a few months before he died at age 40. Just 3 days after he was declared 'mad' and succeeded by his uncle Luitpold as King, Ludwig and his doctor were found drowned in a lake just outside of Munich, a suspicious death which was never solved.
But his legacy lives on, here high up on a hill, in perfect harmony with the surroundings he so loved and sought as refuge, in this breathtaking structure with all the glitz and glamor Ludwig savored.
Getting to the castle can be a challenging task unless you opt for the traditional horse-drawn carriage ride to the top (cost is $5). The winding road is steep, and although we managed to hike up, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're relatively fit. Buses are available to drive you part of the way up and drop you off at the Marienbruecke, a bridge which spans a 300 ft gorge behind the castle (also $5). But you are still left with a rather strenuous hike the rest of the way. The views from this angle are equally as spectacular and shouldn't be missed! There are some extended hiking trails continuing on from here for an even better view, but in places the narrow path clings precariously to the edge of the cliff and there are no guard rails. You quickly take note of this when seeing a cross, marking the spot where a young man plunged to his death while having his picture taken!
The castle itself can only be toured in a group and with a guide at a cost of $12 for adults, $9 for students and children over 15. Tours are available in several languages and after getting in the appropriate line, the wait can be long if you don't arrive early! However, to be able to see the lavish interior is well worth the wait.
Ludwig's bedroom, which alone took over 4 years to finish, is a marvel in itself and very ornate with a beautifully carved canopy bed, gorgeous murals (influenced by the saga of Tristan and Isolde) and a superb view from the balcony of the surrounding mountains, the Pollat Gorge and a picturesque waterfall. The decor in virtually every room makes some reference to Wagner's plays and the Singer's Hall, where beautiful frescoes tell the life story of Parsifal (Tannhauser) is still used today for special concerts during the fall season. The overall construction of the castle is amazingly sophisticated for its time, especially the presence of a central heating system, unheard of in those early times.
If you are in the mood for hiking, you can continue on to the castle of Hohenschwangau, which is within view (about a 1 hour hike), or take the carriage or bus back to town, from where it's a short walk. This is, of course, where Ludwig grew up and although it is historically more significant than Neuschwanstein, it has less luster and is far less ostentatious and fanciful. It dates back to the 12th century and was restored by Ludwig's father, Maximilian II. How impressionable it must have been for a little boy to grow up in a place such as this, surrounded by the heavy Gothic style furniture and the frescoes and drawings reminiscent of the Middle Ages and depicting the glory of knighthood. Even here Wagner's influence can be seen, especially in the Hall of the Swan Night with its magnificent paintings of the story of 'Lohengrin'. The admission price to Hohenschwangau is the same as to Neuschwanstein, but you'll find the lines much shorter!!!
Schwangau, a relatively small town, is located at the foot of these magnificent castles and next to a pretty clear mountain lake. This is where you'll find the tourist office, plenty of souvenir shops and a variety of restaurants. After a long day, you'll have earned that stein of good, cold Bavarian beer. Prost!
Schwangau is only 70 miles southeast of Munich. Try to get there early to beat the crowds. Tours in the summer start at 9 a.m., in the winter not until 10 a.m. and end at 5:30 p.m. and 4 p.m. respectively. Seeing Neuschwanstein in the snow is a particularly special treat, although hiking becomes even more challenging and at times impossible.
The question remains, was Ludwig mad, ingenious or just eccentric, or maybe all of the above? Perhaps only Wagner had insight into the true personality of this controversial King. Then thought to be such a financial burden on Bavaria (disputed by many who claim that he used only private money for the construction of his castles), today Bavaria reaps the profits from the extravagant lifestyle of one of its sons. Tourists flock here by the thousands to see his works of fancy set amidst the glory of the Alps - I can't help but wonder if Ludwig would be pleased?!
Coming soon, a brief review of Schloss Linderhof, Ludwig's favorite palace near Oberammergau.
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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