Calling all Culture Vultures--exceptional value!
Written: Jun 01 '05 (Updated Jun 15 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: exceptional quality and quantity of exhibits on display;
unbelievable bargain (very low admission price)
Cons: none I can think of
The Bottom Line: It's smaller and more intimate than Schonbrunn, and you don't need to spend more than 4 hours there. Exceptional value for your money.
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| jc_hall's Full Review: Belvedere Palace, Vienna |
Of so many major attractions in Vienna, Belvedere Palace is not one of the first that comes to mind. Tourists flock to Schonbrunn Palace (the magnificent summer residence of the powerful Hapsburgs), to the History of Fine Arts Museum in the Museum Quarter, to the imperial Hofburg which houses the Kaiserappartements and the Sisi Museum (devoted to the enigmatic Empress Elisabeth), even to the Spanish Riding School (home of the famed white Lippizaner horses). But Belvedere is often overlooked, and that is a crying shame. Because when it comes to the quality and quantity of exhibits in this palace/museum/art gallery, Belvedere gives other, more famous, cultural attractions a run for their money. The cost of admission is astoundingly low, making it the biggest bargain imaginable. Where bang for the buck is concerned, this extraordinary place is second to none.
Belvedere (literally ‘beautiful view’ in Italian) was the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Known as ‘The Sword of the Hapsburgs’ for his successes against the Turks, the prince was also a highly knowledgeable patron of the arts.
Completed in 1725, Belvedere Palace is one of the world’s finest examples of Baroque architecture. Located on a piece of land that gently ascends, a magnificent view of the city of Vienna can be had from the vantage of Upper Belvedere. In between this building and Lower Belvedere is a garden complex divided into terraces and boasting fountains and stone sculptures. Behind Upper Belvedere is a huge pond where, in early summer, water-lilies blossom, adding yet another dimension to the beauty of Belvedere.
The two palaces of Upper and Lower Belvedere face each other across a wide expanse of green, echoing one another in a pleasing symmetrical manner. We began our visit in the Lower Belvedere. It houses the Museum of Medieval Art as well as the Baroque Museum. The former focuses on paintings and sculptures from the late Middle Ages (late 14th Century to early 16th Century) while the latter presents a slew of Austrian paintings and sculptures from the late 17th to the late 18th centuries (late Baroque or ‘Austrian Baroque’ epoch), during which period the Hapsburgs rose to become a great power in Europe.
For anyone who’s the slightest bit interested in mythology, the Lower Belvedere is a treasure trove where you can play spot the god/goddess in hundreds of classical paintings and sculptures. The piece de resistance could well be the ceiling fresco by Martino Altomonte in the Marble Hall in the centre of Lower Belvedere. Apollo rides his sun-chariot through the sky, preceded by his sister Aurora who strews roses to herald the dawn of day. Over on the bottom left are the nine muses enthroned on clouds—a nod to Prince Eugene’s patronage of the arts and sciences. To the right is a hero (you guessed it, it’s the prince’s alter ego) receiving tidings from Mercury of a gift from a pope (alluding to the prince being rewarded for the victory at Peterwardein by Pope Clement XI).
After you’ve had your fill of gods and goddesses, it’s time to take a walk in the garden, making your way to Upper Belvedere where works of art of the 19th and 20th centuries are housed. The exhibitions at the Osterreichische Galerie at Upper Belvedere change from time to time as curators try to showcase exhibits culled from a vast collection. During our visit, the upper (second) floor was taken over by a ‘New Austria’ exhibition showcasing WWII artefacts, including news clips, soldier’s paraphernalia, etc., interspersed with important works of art of the time, including many representative paintings by the famous and popular Austrian painter, Gustav Klimt.
On the lower floors (first and ground) are collections of paintings representing the various schools of Impressionism and Realism as well as Neoclassicism and Romanticism (the latter two being usually on the second floor but perhaps displaced by the WWII exhibition).
We were very taken by Klimt’s paintings. The image of his painting 'The Kiss' is omnipresent in Vienna and I finally succumbed and bought several of these keepsakes. We were pleasantly surprised to see the works of several French impressionists (Monet, Manet, Renoir). But the painting that totally floored me was one by Giovanni Segatini. Its name ('The Evil Mothers') belies its stark beauty, the fantastical background, and the shimmering evening light. This one painting, to me, was worth the price of admission.
Having had our fill of art, we left the Upper Belvedere, and as it was blazing hot, we dropped into the Alpine Gardens to cool off. It was lovely and shady inside the Alpine gardens, but sadly, most of the flowers were not in season. Perhaps mid-June would be a better time to visit then the middle of May. Nevertheless, we had enjoyed ourselves immensely, and if we were to return to Vienna one day, we’ll certainly visit Belvedere again and take our fill of mythology and Klimt’s unique genius one more time.
Practical Considerations (Price Of Admission and How To Get There):
Be sure to get the Combined Pass for all collections in both Lower and Upper Belvedere, including the Alpine Gardens. The combined pass for all collections cost 5 Euros instead of 7.50 Euros with the Vienna Card. This is an unbelievable bargain, considering the quality and quantity of exhibits on display.
Belvedere Palace can be accessed from Rennweg (which is where we started our tour, at Lower Belvedere/Unteres Belvedere; tram 71 will take you practically to the door) or from Prinz Eugen-Strasse (Upper Belvedere/Oberes Belvedere; trams O, 18, and D will take you to within walking distance of the gates).
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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Epinions.com ID:
jc_hall
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Member: JC Hall
Location: Toronto, Canada
Reviews written: 199
Trusted by: 52 members
About Me:
Going back to Vancouver for Christmas! Happy Holidays, everyone!!
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