I say......dressage, anyone?
Written: Jun 02 '05 (Updated Jun 15 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Pros: the famed Lipizzaner stallions; the history; dressage at its best
Cons: Cons: good seats prohibitively expensive; dressage not everyone’s cup of tea
The Bottom Line: Unless you get the best seats, you don’t actually get a good view of the performance, but best seats are prohibitively expensive. Only diehard fans of dressage need apply.
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| jc_hall's Full Review: Wiener Hofreitschule - Spanish Riding School |
In 1580, the Hapsburg Archduke Charles II of Austria founded the Court Stud near the village Lipizza. In the centuries that followed, using Spanish horses and Italian horses with Spanish ancestry, the Hapsburg Emperors raised a breed of horses that was representative of the ideals of the Baroque Court.
The best stallions, chosen for their appearance, temperament, performance and stamina, were trained for the Imperial Court in Vienna. They were also sent back to the Court Stud to pass on their positive characteristics to future generations. Young Lipizzaners need to undergo elaborate training for up to 8 years before they become a high school (Haute Ecole) horse.
The Spanish Riding School is the oldest Riding School in the world where classic dressage is still practised in its purest form. Founded in 1572, the building that survives to this day dates from the 18th century. Commissioned by Emperor Charles VI and built between 1729 and 1735 as part of the Vienna Hofburg (Imperial Palace), the Winter Riding School is considered to be one of the masterpieces of late Baroque architecture. The majestic hall, with its Saeulengalerie (Gallery of the Columns) and the Hofloge (Imperial Loggia), is adorned with chandeliers, and with the equestrian image of Emperor Charles VI gazing down from the gallery, was the venue for ceremonies and court feasts from 18th century onwards.
There are 2 separate entrances to the great hall for each floor of the upper galleries. When you enter, be sure to move all the way across to the opposite side as much as possible, for that is the best vantage to view the Lipizzaners and their riders as they enter the hall down below. If in doubt, look for the large portrait of Charles VI astride his own Lipizzaner, and aim to get as close to that as possible. Unless you’ve spent a good deal of money on your tickets, you would not be sitting down for the show. As it lasts just over an hour and a half, I would recommend that anyone who has trouble standing for that amount of time to buy a sit-down ticket. Heck, you’ve come that far and you’ve paid so much already, you might as well be comfortable.
Not that me and my husband had any idea. We took a couple of empty seats and then had to relinquish them to their true claimants (who had seat numbers on their tickets, unlike us), which was rather embarrassing. If you refuse to splurge on seats, then get there early and be one of the first to enter the hall. Dash across to the opposite side and position yourself in front of that gigantic portrait. Failing that, be quick and climb up the steps placed near the back of galleries, making sure the columns in front are not in your way. You can take a few photographs before the show starts, and the sumptuous hall is definitely photo-worthy, but be sure to tuck your cameras away once the show starts, as vigilant guards patrol the galleries throughout the show and reprimand those who flout this rule.
Now, for the million-dollar question, is the show worth the price of the ticket? For those who appreciate dressage, this is the epitome of the art-form. For horse-lovers everywhere, the Lipizzaner is, if not the most noble and handsome breed in the world, then as close to it as makes no different. But for my husband, whom I had recklessly taken to watch ‘Cavalia’ (review coming up soon) a few days before our departure from Toronto, it was not as exciting as he had imagined.
To be fair, much of the programme (especially the pas de deux and the quadrille, variously set to music by Mozart, Chopin and Strauss) could only be truly appreciated from front and centre, rather than perched over a balcony high up in a gallery to one side. And many of the Haute Ecole moves (especially the capriole and the courbette, where the stallions leap off the ground to assume stunning poses mid-air) did elicit appreciative oohs and aahs from the audience.
Lipizzaner Museum
There is a very small Lipizzaner Museum nearby (on the premises of the former court apothecary) which offers insight into the breeding and training of the world-famous white stallions through paintings, photos, and film footage. It was deserted when we got there. Suffice it to say that only die-hard Lipizzaner fans need spend time here.
Practical Considerations:
Tickets are expensive and the shows are often booked months in advance. In July and August the white horses enjoy their well-deserved summer break, so if you’re a die-hard dressage fan, don’t even think about going during those two months.
We booked our Special Gala Show tickets beforehand with Expedia.ca, and the price of Cad $88 (about US$70) each should have included a City Tour by bus around Vienna's historical buildings and landmarks, including well-known sights such as the Ringstrasse, the Prater, and the Danube. However, a marathon was being held that morning in the city centre, and many roads were blocked off, so after the tour guide argued pointlessly with local traffic cops, the bus driver had to give up on the scenic route. And, with the shortest route to the Riding School also closed, he had to struggle to get us there on time. So we certainly did not get our money’s worth.
Instead of going through Expedia and getting that combination ticket (City Tour plus Riding School Gala Show), you can book tickets for the show at the online Vienna Ticket Office (http://www.viennaticketoffice.com/detail_en.php?ID=77).
Standing room only (upstairs in gallery) costs 33 Euros (approx. US$41). Be prepared to get there early and jostle for a good spot.
Seating (upstairs in gallery) costs 58 Euros (approx. US$71), but the catch is you cannot mark the seat out in advance, there being no seating plan available online, so you’re basically taking a chance, as the seat could be far from front and centre.
The best seats in the house cost a whacking 122 Euros (approx. US$150). It’s a heck of a lot of money to spend on one show, but if you’re a die-hard dressage fan, this is the only way to go.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
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Epinions.com ID:
jc_hall
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Member: JC Hall
Location: Toronto, Canada
Reviews written: 199
Trusted by: 54 members
About Me:
Going back to Vancouver for Christmas! Happy Holidays, everyone!!
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