The Hapsburgs' idea of a summer cottage
Written: Jun 06 '05 (Updated Jun 06 '05)
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Pros: a wide range of tours on offer, catering to all budgets and time constraints
Cons: so much to see you’ll want to go back again
The Bottom Line: No trip to Vienna is complete without a visit to Schonbrunn; range of tours to choose from, sure to find one to match your tastes, budget and available time.
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| jc_hall's Full Review: Schönbrunn Palace |
Rivalling Versailles in majesty and opulence, Schonbrunn Palace is on the UNESCO list of World Cultural Heritage Sites. Commissioned by Emperor Leopold I as an imperial castle for hunting purposes, it was Empress Maria Theresa who transformed it into the imperial summer residence of the powerful and far-reaching Hapsburgs.
Depending on whether you want to spend a couple of hours or the whole day there, you’ll need to take your pick of the tours on offer. We chose the Classic Tour. The audio guide is included so grab one and start the palace tour. It begins in the west wing with the apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife, Elisabeth (also known as Sisi). These rooms are beautifully furnished in 19th-century style. Next are the staterooms and various guest rooms. Several of my favourite include small chambers panelled in rosewood and walnut, a little room which features over 200 blue ink chinoiserie drawings by members of the royal family, and another with Indo-Persian drawings cut up and collaged onto the walls. The Hapsburgs seemed to have been an artistic lot. They even took an active part in operatic and theatrical productions held in their very own Castle Theatre in the western courtyard. Concerts are still performed in this theatre to this day.
After the relative intimacy of the domestic and staterooms, be prepared for The Great Gallery. This huge, imposing, chamber was used for court functions such as balls, receptions and banquets. The tall windows and the crystal mirrors facing them, together with white and gold stucco decoration and the ceiling frescoes, combine to form one of the most magnificent Rococo interiors in existence.
The ceiling frescoes, while worth exploring, can be hard on your neck. I found myself wishing they had one of those large, rectangular, table-mounted mirrors on castors (such as the one in the chapel at Greenwich, London) for you to wheel around.
To either side of the Small Gallery next door are the two Chinese Cabinets: the Oval Cabinet on the left and the Round Cabinet on the right. They were sealed off while we were there, but we did get a peek at the chinoiserie that was the height of fashion in 18th century Europe.
Schönbrunn Palace was not only an imperial residence and the setting for countless festivities, but also a place where famous artists and craftsmen from many different epochs came together under the aegis of the wealthy and discerning Hapsburgs to create interiors of great beauty. Each room in the palace is unique, each has its own story, its occupants people who lived on the cusp of high culture during the imperial era. The audioguide offers an excellent slice of Austrian history as pertaining to the royal family, right down to the tensions between the enigmatic Sisi and her mother-in-law, the formidable Maria Theresa.
After the palace tour, we left the main building and walked off to one side, following signs to The Privy Garden. A short, pleasant, covered walk leads to a steel spiral staircase which takes you up to a little terrace. Get your camera out, because this will be the best vantage to take a glorious picture postcard-perfect photo for the album. You’re right opposite the side of Schonbrunn Palace across a series of beautifully-manicured lawns in the middle of which is nestled a little fountain. Once you’ve got your shots, climb down and leave the way you entered, but don’t miss out on the little Orangerie near the exit, where potted orange and lemon trees stand soaking in the sun.
The park is massive and will take time and energy to explore. Four parallel paths are cut across by two diagonals: the left hand one leads to the Obelisk Cascade, the right hand one to the Zoological Garden. The Gloriette Collonade, built in 1775, surrounds the entire park. Here and there are scattered gems such as the Grotto of the Sybil, the Roman Ruins, The Dovecote, and The Little Gloriette.
At the foot of the Gloriette Hill is an array of statues forming the Fountain of Neptune. Sadly, we didn’t have the time or the energy to climb the diagonal paths of the hill rising behind the fountain. My husband had climbed it before (this being his second visit to Vienna) and assures me that it is a slow but pleasant climb, not least, I’m sure, for the groups of naiads in fishponds along the uphill paths. Refreshments can be had in a little café at the summit for those hardy souls who make it to the top. Better yet, there’s still more to Schonbrunn behind the building at the top of Gloriette Hill: yet another huge pond is laid out at the back, and lush greenery beyond.
After taking a photo of Neptune and his gang, we turned round and took a leisurely stroll towards the Maze, bypassing the Zoo. The Maze in the palace gardens was recreated following historical plans from the year 1689. It shouldn’t take long to find your way through and then you can climb the few steps up to the Gloriette Viewing Terrace at the base of which stand a couple of Chinese Harmony Stones. These you embrace to restore the harmony between you and your partner (who refused to follow your instructions as you fought your way out of the maze). The viewing terrace offers a view of the park and city. Next door is the Labyrinthe, a new attraction and rather lame unless you’re with very young kids.
Don’t be like us and miss out on the Court Bakery for want of a good sign. It’s located in a vaulted cellar beneath Café-Restaurant Residenz. Apparently, free samples are on offer. We can’t tell you how sorry we are to have missed it.
The next time around, we’ll spend more time in Schonbrunn, and will visit the Zoo/Menagerie (dating from 1751), the Palm House, the Desert House, as well as the Court Bakery, and the Imperial Coach Collection. Perhaps we’ll even catch a concert held at the Castle Theatre.
Practical Considerations (Cost of Admission and How To Get There):
There’s a variety of tours to choose from, so you’re bound to find one to suit your taste, budget, and time. You might also want to consider the Sisi Ticket which buys you an inclusive package for three imperial attractions in Vienna, including the Grand Tour at Schonbrunn, the Imperial Apartments (Kaiserappartements)plus Sisi Museum plus Imperial Silver Collection at Hofburg, and the Imperial Furniture Collection on Andreasgasse.
Imperial Tour: 22 staterooms, with audioguide, 8.90 Euros
Grand Tour: 40 staterooms, with audioguide, 10.20 Euros instead of 11.50 with the Vienna Pass; with guide, 12.70 Euros instead of 14 with the Vienna Pass
Classic Tour/Schonbrunn Pass Classic (April 1-October 31): 13 Euros instead of 14.90 with the Vienna Pass; includes a palace tour with audioguide, as well as admission to the Maze, the Labyrinthe, the Gloriette viewing terrace, and the Court Bakery.
Gold Tour/Schonbrunn Pass Gold: 20% discount with the Vienna Card; includes all the above plus admission to the Zoo, the Palm House, the Desert House, and the Imperial Coach Collection.
Schonbrunn Palace (Schloss Schonbrunn)is 5 minutes' walk from the underground/subway station 'Schonbrunn' on the green U4 line.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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Epinions.com ID:
jc_hall
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Member: JC Hall
Location: Toronto, Canada
Reviews written: 199
Trusted by: 54 members
About Me:
Going back to Vancouver for Christmas! Happy Holidays, everyone!!
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