Chez Peter - decor by "Three's Company" set designer, food by an expert.Aug 01 '01 Write an essay on this topic.
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The Bottom Line "Come and knock on our door, dinner's waiting for you, you can hear every word your neighbors say, Three's Company toooo."
Well, the Gentlemen-of-Leisure are at it again. Just for the record, I'm dining so much with my buddy Dominick these days because he is temporarily cat-sitting my feline friend Loki (The Fluffy Kitty). The terms of the deal do not include Dominick scooping, brushing, or cleaning up after said feline friend. Since we live about 20 minutes apart, it makes sense to grab a bite to eat when my pet maintenance is complete. After a particularly rousing round of poop scooping and fluff control last night, I actually managed to retain my appetite. Off we went to Chez Peter in Atlantic Beach, the posh end of Long Beach in Long Island. Chez Peter is located at 1846 Park Street. Reservations can be secured by calling 516-239-2628. Atmosphere - 6 out of 10 - add a point (no, two) if kitsch is your thing. Wow! Remember "Three's Company"? I thought we were in the bar on the '70s sitcom, The Regal Beagle. Immediately inside the front door is the small glassed-in bar area, with lots of dark paneling and a TV tuned to "Big Brother". While Janet and Chrissy were not at the bar, two lovely young ladies were, sipping chardonnay. Dominick was lucky he didn't need a neck brace. The rest of the bar patrons seemed to be middle-aged gents in Hawaiian shirts, trying to be Sopranos but only making it as far as Long Island CPAs and insurance execs. A small dining room to the left of the entrance is secluded and almost romantic. This effect was possibly enhanced by the middle-aged couple seated right next to each other at a table that could have easily accomodated six diners. As the lady adoringly ran her hand through his mullet, the male half of the couple gazed into his beloved's eyes. Ah, love! The larger dining room has about 18 tables of varying sizes. White latticework was entwined with silk wisteria and plastic grapes, then mounted to the walls and ceiling to achieve a solarium effect. Between panels, decent oil still life paintings had been hung. The comfy catering hall chairs had been gussied up with slipcovers, and the creamy linens were spotless. We were seated at a table next to the glass wall between the dining room and the bar, allowing me to watch a bit of "Big Brother" (which was all of THAT I cared to see), and Dominick to observe the young ladies, presumably to monitor their chardonnay consumption and its' effect on their bra sizes. Service - 7 out of 10 Our waiter, a German accented gent with a sincere dedication to service, had a hustle that reminded me of my early waiter days. (We decided his name was Thor) This was good, because he was working both the bar and the restaurant. There were about 7 occupied tables, so this kept him moving. The ladies at the bar seemed to slow him down a bit, but everything was delivered seamlessly and even with a little panache. NOTE: The table next to us apparently requested that their salad be served AFTER their meal, as Europeans have it. Thor willingly complied. I sure wish I'd thought of that, or it had been suggested. Food - 9 out of 10 The trend these days seems to be towards short, simple menus, utilizing ultra-fresh ingredients and perfect preparation. Chez Peter is no exception. The simple appetizers run toward seafood, as befits the seaside location, but last night they were running a special. I let Dominick choose, since he's been so patient with things like, say me stealing food from his plate in his absence. We ordered the special on Thor's recommendation, eggplant rollatine, served with fresh ricotta, proscuitto, spinach and basil. The Regal Beagle never had it so good. This was just incredible. The eggplant was firm, fresh and greaseless, the ricotta took me back to Tuscany with one bite, the proscuitto was clearly imported and fresh, and the spinach and basil added zip, texture and color. I wished we'd ordered two, but the next thing I knew, Thor was whisking away the 1920s-style china plate on which it was served, and replacing it with a really good salad. Crisp greens, red cabbage and onion, and a single perfect tomato slice arrived with just enough balsamic vinegar to tease the palate rather than overwhelm it. Dinner for me was Veal Sunflower, prepared with a marsala reduction, fresh artichoke hearts, and more perfect tomatoes and spinach. This dish was aptly named - it was a perfect summer treat, and I found myself wishing for a glass of merlot to go with it. The wine list is impressive and well-priced, but I was driving yet again, so none for me. The veal was tender and the marsala sauce did not compete with the flavor in any way - a sign of a careful chef. The freshness of the ingredients recalled Tuscany or Provence - a simple dish that is more than the sum of its parts. One missing item - it should have come with a few of those little red-skinned new potatoes that everyone loves. I didn't miss them too much, because I'm watching my carbs, but they would have added a nice texture and contrasting flavor to the dish. Dominick ordered chicken with rice; and for once I let him have it to himself. It looked and smelled good though, and he snarfed it all down like the world was ending and the girls at the bar expected him to have all his stamina for when The Big One hit. Sheesh. Coffee was good, but homemade tiramisu was even better. Creamy, fresh, held together with little brandy-coffee soaked lady fingers, this huge portion was more than enough for us to share. As we consumed it, the bar girls got up to leave, and Dominick sat looking after them like the last puppy in the store window at Christmas. They did smile and wave as they passed, though whether that was because they admired his Italian Stallion-ness or the blob of tiramisu on his chin, I'm not sure. The things I put up with, kids! People watching - 6 out of 10, and eavesdropping - 9 out of 10. It's not a hot spot, though it is well-known locally. Pretty people go here, but don't expect Brad and Julia. The benefit of that is that you shouldn't expect Lizzie Grubman to mow you down with her obnoxious SUV as you exit, either. The mainly well-dressed professional crowd was of mixed ages - 4 50-ish folks to my right were politely discussing tennis strategies and proper court behavior. One gentleman was outraged that another player had taken his balls. Hey, wouldn't you be? An older professional couple was examining Dominick and I as though we were zoo creatures, and I wanted to do my rabid hippo impression as Dominick played "The Baby Elephant Walk" on a kazoo, but he declined. "You know, Tom, I do live here." What a fuddy-duddy! A young lady in the corner brayed discreetly to her dining companion about the REAL reason her friend moved up her wedding date. It's not the place to form a secret cabal to plot world domination involving forcing each member of the global population to wear a fez. Or to talk about your sex life, unless you want observations and input from your fellow diners. Note to the guy behind me - Bro, if you do a 10 minute warm up and a 10 minute cool down, it will definitely solve your problem. And hers. Pricing - 9 out of 10. Appetizers go for about $7 - $10, entrees about $15 - $25. It is an amazing value for the money, especially on Long Island, especially in a wealthy area. Dinner for 2 - $50.77. I'd go back. I'd even bring IL Duce Tomasso and Lord Thomas, my warring alter egos. For newbies, Lord Thomas is a Yankee Puritan whose primary concern is thrift and value. IL Duce, my Ancient Italian half, cares only for quality, a good time, and stellar service. The two of them battle often over my dining dollar, but I think they'd both be pleased with Chez Peter.  |
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