Part 1 of 3: Beginners Brief. Home Theatre]
Aug 21 '01
The Bottom Line Now you should fully understand the basics of what and how home theatre connects it ‘self within theory.
Beginners Guide To DVD Sourced Home Theatre – Systems, options, installs, configs…
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Introduction (Parts: 1, 2, 3)
This 3-part guide will hopefully explain a few unclear areas about the whole home theatre game. I will also take you through step by steps of how and why you should do or not do certain things.
Home theatre isn’t quite as popular as some may think, only around 10 to 20% of your country would have a suitable system to call it a home theatre. In its self the words “home theatre” have no real distinct meaning, or price range for that matter. You could spend little over a few hundred and have a home theatre or spend a few thousand and have the same as before. The only difference would be performance and compatibility. As prices increase equipment becomes more future-proof. If any of you bought a DVD player two or even three years ago, you will know how much it cost (upward of £1000 perhaps) and now you’ll see DVD players going for less than 10% of the price you paid. Add that to the fact that these bargain priced players offer similar performance to those older models.
In short, when buying a home theatre – it is better to spend more than less. But more significant than that is you need to know what you want and what you might want in a year two years, or maybe in a decade. Hopefully this 3-part guide will set your decision – if you’re prepared to invest in a home theatre that is. The three part guide will be separated into three major sectors in home theatre (below), each part is posted under specific titles in the same category, and is best read from Part 1 through 3, the last part is posted first, and 1st part last, so they end up in correct order in the list in this topic on epinions. This is a large topic and it requires a heavy reading for beginners, so I think it’s easier to read in separate parts.
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Contents: (Parts: 1, 2, 3)
Part 1: Beginners Brief [Home Theatre]
0.0 Benefits Of Home Theatre
0.1 The Media
0.2 How DVD Comes Into The Picture
0.3 Equipment Introduction
0.31 The DVD Player
0.32 The Receiver
0.33 The Loudspeakers
0.34 The TV
Part 2: Deciding Purchasing and Installing [Home Theatre]
0.4 System Types
0.41 Benefits of Separates
0.5 Installation & Configuration
0.51 All-In-one System
0.52 Separates System
Part 3: Future Installing and Buying [Home Theatre]
0.6 Living With The System
0.7 Additional Hardware
0.8 Future Upgrades
0.9 Connecting Upgrades
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0.0 Benefits Of Home Theatre
It really depends on the type of system you wish to own, but for the majority of systems a DVD player will be the main source. A DVD player offers you an increase in picture quality, and various surround signals encoded onto almost all DVD’s. Though if you own a VCR it’s an easy task to hook it to the system – and if it is a Nicam model, you can experience Dolby Pro Logic: this is an old type of surround sound, Pro Logic II is available. The first is where there are four channels (speakers) the two stereo, centre channel, and a rear channel (mono).
Even if you bought the DVD player months ago you can build around it. You simply need to know what to connect and where.
What a home theatre offers is stunning surround sound – as close to cinema sound as possible and superb visuals. In fact that sentence doesn’t begin to describe what home theatre is about. With your source as DVD you can pick languages, watch in widescreen (with a suitable TV), and hear breathtaking sounds all around your head. If you can imagine a scene in the rain, the raindrops splash all around you head – you’d think it was raining inside. If you can imagine an explosion, the reflections of sound or broken glass from buildings from the excessive shockwave hitting the ground behind you. It acts an experience you can’t escape.
What most people don’t understand is that it can be done in their own homes. You can link simply four components together and you have a ready-made home theatre. Even in small rooms you have a good choice of hardware, Sony JVC and Pioneer have each made big impacts with their all in one solutions – the Sony model – DAV-S500 is released with DVD replay the five channels of surround sound amplification and SACD replay (later *). This is the bargain end of the market offering no-nonsense simple to use and connect systems for the amateur – and most people would be happy at that. No body likes big black boxes in their living room these days – so the miniature satellites have all the credentials people desire.
If you want more performance you can pay the same price as those all-in-ones and get some bigger kit, to shake the ground, rattle those rib cages, and set the hairs off on your neck.
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0.1 The Media
At this present time the only software available is VHS and DVD. VHS offers the ability to record unlike DVD. However Philips and Marantz are designing DVD recorders – which can record in real-time. However I’d wait for the player to return to bargain levels because they’ll cost upward of £1500. Add to that they’ll slowly improve over time.
VHS on the other hand has been very committed to keeping the old format alive, offering S-VHS and D-VHS. The S version is better but no-where near DVD. D-VHS is very impressive; however the last player I saw was a Philips at £1300.
I’ve heard critics talk about what happened to Beta, and I have no real fear that DVD will do the same. I wasn’t alive at the time, but from what my Sony Betamax player has done it looks to be better than VHS. But at that time VHS was the DVD of Beta. I’d think that DVD will last a good few decades before we get any further ahead. Already the new formats for surround sound are becoming more impressive, with 6 channels of speakers and some even offering seven.
On the other side of DVD we have DVD-Audio, DVD means: Digital Versatile Disc, when coupled to a meaning like Video or Audio we have a format. Audio and Video aren’t as simple as their name. Video is the format we all now of – the founder having a bandwidth of 20 to 20,000Hz (the human hearing range in sound frequencies – higher the frequency the higher the pitch and vise-versa. Audio is more dedicated to the audio side, offering an increased bandwidth upward of 96kHz (96,000Hz) and as low as 5Hz.
“Why go to 96kHz when we only hear up to 20,000Hz? We can’t hear that high?
Simple question, not-so simple answer. I happen to have experience with dealing with this simple question, and found a good answer. The sound frequencies higher than 20kHz (20,000Hz remember) cannot be heard, simply the only way you hear them is through feeling. You body is covered in nerves, once these high frequencies penetrate at high volume they have an effect on your feeling – you’re not hearing the sound you’re feeling it. The frequencies penetrate the skin (acoustically of course), and act as a mild vibration, I also heard that it hits alpha waves in the brain tissue, which may sound odd, but is actually true. It’s the same feeling you get when low frequencies (i.e. bass) hits your guts giving a soothing and sickly or massaging feeling inside. I should also add this: Have you ever heard very quite almost invisible sounds when a TV was on? Like you hear it and see a TV on in another room? Well the TV actually makes the noises because it is vibrating at high frequency. This is only with standard (50/60Hz) TVs, as the higher refreshed (e.g. 100Hz) TVs don’t affect you. This frequency is unknown, but I’d guess it were up in the 50kHz area.
All these frequencies are inevitably limited by your age – hearing does fade during ageing but most of use won’t notice until it becomes obvious.
Both DVD formats offer you the surround sounds, in either 5.1 or 6.1 channels. The “.1” is a low frequency track for subwoofers. The 5 or 6 is for the other surround channels.
* The last format to mention is CD and SACD. CD is the major format in music these days and you might want a CD player in the system – DVD players do play CDs but for serious listening you need a dedicated player. A £500 DVD player will not beat a £200 CD player, while a £1000 DVD player may just beat a £500 CD player.
SACD is the next generation of CD, like S of VHS. It stands for Super Audio Compact Disc. The first releases are in stereo format but now the multichannel (surround sounds) format is creeping onto the selected discs. I believe this is a better format to DVD-Audio. Many of the discs are dual layer, which have the normal CD layer, and the SACD layer (check with the disc though), meaning you can play the stereo CD and the surround sound SACD only on special players. The majority of players have been from Sony (founder with Philips the CD) pushing the inevitable market ahead single handily.
This format offers wider bandwidth than DVD-Audio, yet hasn’t the video output, it does offer icons menus text lyrics and such, but is a music-based product. It does sound better. I would recommend a DVD-Video and SACD combination – Sony is releasing two the DVP-NS700V is out now at £400 and it compatible with both stereo and multichannel SACDs.
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0.2 How DVD Comes Into The Picture
You’ll now know that DVD offers the multi-channel sounds, and picture benefits, but the DVD is simply a disc. The player you buy will need to follow the specification you desire. Features like zoom and slow motion scan are only fun the first time, and aren’t why you should buy a DVD player. First you need to decide on a format – DVD-V DVD-A, SACD or a combination. For beginners that Sony DVP-NS700V looks a good starting point.
For most a simple DVD-V machine will be the centre attraction such as a Toshiba SD200e (est. £250). You need to check what the player needs to do before slapping down any credit/debit cards.
The player doesn’t need an inbuilt decoder – unless you plan to connect it to an old Pro Logic receiver (see other posting here [Pro Logic to 5.1 to 6.1 to 7.1... and onward]). The decoding will be done from a receiver. The player however needs to play the write stuff. Most common is Dolby Digital, and don’t forget DTS, these are the sound formats, which offer the 5.1 channels. Those ES and EX extras are simply decoded further from the receiver.
Now a receiver is simply a big box that takes the incoming signal and either decodes and amplifies or just amplifies. It only becomes a receiver when it has an in-built radio tuner.
The player should have a digital output – this connects to the receiver to delivery the encoded sound stream from the DVD inside the player. There are two digital connections, optical and electrical (coaxial). For most coaxial is the best option.
The video signal from the player can either be plugged to a TV or to the receiver. If using a VCR as well the latter option is best – you can connect both machines to the one receiver and this simply acts as a switching box. So you can simply switch between DVD and VHS. (**Later Installation & Configuration)
Regions play a part in DVD movies, as the various continents are split into regions. USE is Region One, and Europe is Region Two. Wherever you buy a DVD player you can bet it will only play that region it is in. There are converted or chipped players available, to play the entire set of regions (I think it goes up to 6). This is an advantage to all others who use any region except one, because the Region One DVD can have better video quality, and sometimes offer Progressive Scan. So many of the DVD players I see are available in a chipped price, or some are even hackable (check some magazines or the internet). Many people do this (it is not illegal) because DVD’s in the USA are slightly cheaper – and released a good few months or weeks earlier than the UK/Europe release.
The Progressive Scan implement is a higher standard of picture and available on higher costing DVD players such as the Denon DVD-2800:
“Progressive Scan” is currently only applicable to NTSC (US and other countries) video, most commonly found on Region One DVD’s purchased from the USA. This 525-line picture system is presented in two “passes” of information, a system known as interlacing. One pass fills in the odd numbered lines of signal picture, while the second fills in the even lines, producing a complete picture. Progressive Scan simply delivers the entire picture in one single burst, removing the potential for visible lines, caused by differences in brightness between the first and second pass. The resulting picture is called 525p.
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0.3 Equipment Introduction
----0.31 The DVD Player
This is (as I referred to it earlier) the source for your home theatre. This will play your DVD’s CDs, VCDs and possibly CD-R or CD-RW discs (not all apply). If you own a large DVD collection you could upgrade to a multi-player. Such players as the Sony DVPCX850D, this holds up to 200 discs – either CDs or DVD’s – though doesn’t play CD-R (http://mikeelectrical.epinions.com/elec_Home_Theater-DVD_Sony_DVP-Sony_DVP-CX850D) could be an ideal and versatile to lose the collection – you’ll never see it again. However that comes in at £600 – I’ve seen it for as low as £350 (multi region) though (shop around).
The best way to find a DVD player is to take the total of the receiver you will buy and divide by two, this will give a good price for your DVD player. However forget that idea if you want to buy a player that can handle other formats such as DVD-Audio or SACD – you can buy a Kenwood DVF R7030 multi-player that copes with DVD-V and DVD-A. Or the aforementioned Sony DVP-NS700V, which plays SACD and DVD-V. OR you may wish to buy player for each format, giving the best overall performance. There are plenty of decent multi-channel SACD players from Sony, some high-spec DVD-Audio players from Technics & Panasonic, and some very fine DVD-V players from Denon, Pioneer, Toshiba and Sony. Unfortunately there are no full-formatted players available now, but wait one or two months and I’m sure some will spring up.
Finally you don’t need a decoder – one on SACD and DVD-A players are needed, though DVD-V players aren’t. You should note that DVD-A’s could be played on DVD-V players – only without the extra bandwidth.
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----0.32 The Receiver
For your entertainment system, you should first set a budget and try to stick to it, and be serious; these home theatre markets ain’t cheap. If you consider the budget to be 100% you should cover each component with a selected percent. Excluding the cables and TV:
Receiver – 40%
DVD/Source player – 20%
Speakers – 40%
The best way to do it is shortlist all the components in a store that meet that price point. A good home theatre budget will be around £1000, this means £400 for the receiver, £400 for the speakers and £200 for the DVD/Source player. For cables and accessories (stands) I would take 10% of the total budget to put into your back pocket when its time to lay the hard cash down on the desk or take it from the budget and reassessing the percents for each piece.
A receiver is only a receiver if it has an inbuilt radio tuner. Otherwise they are known as a multi-channel amplifier. The former is often the best option – as your getting a radio in too, just keeps an eye out for RDS and EON (special future proof radio technology). The rest of the unit compromises of decoders amplifiers and inputs outputs. They will often have a lot of inputs and few outputs – to a TV. The key is to look for future proofing. Any future SACD buys will mean a 6-channel input is a necessary addition. The inputs and outputs in audio are either one of two: analogue and digital. Analogue is simply an RCA type socket or plug that connects the source to the receiver. Digital offers better convenience because it is one wire – no a pair or three pairs.
Digital is the best way to connect a DVD player to the receiver, as the receiver will decode the incoming signal into its amplification area – to power 5 speakers or 6 if it is ES or EX compatible. The digital connection is either coaxial or optical – vote for coaxial (it is better).
The receiver must have a number of badges on its front; to decode Dolby Digital it must have that logo on it, and the same for DTS. Pro Logic II is simply a new way (similar to Dolby Digital) to give true surround sound rather than the mono previous Logic I, this is only applicable to VHS cassettes or terrestrial broadcasts. For the latter case the receiver needs to be connected to a stereo pair (analogue RCA connection) from either a Nicam VCR or a satellite or cable box-set. This Pro Logic II is new but offers better sound from no.I. DVD’s also carry the Pro Logic and Pro Logic II (I think) sound formats (in case you own an older Pro Logic receiver.
If you want ES or EX (6.1) added it will cost more, and offers you a centre rear channel – some receivers have a special effect to create the presence of an absent centre rear speakers. Some older receivers offered pre-outs that can be connected to a power-amplifier to power a centre rear channel.
THX selected equipment means this component has passed certain standards test from highly renowned THX, there is THX Ultra, THX Select and THX Gold and Silver. Each of these represents a great buy.
Power-wise its isn’t that important – the wattage an amplifier gives isn’t a description of how loud it will go, it simply means that it can give more energy and a dynamic sound. The loudness is effect by the loudspeakers sensitivity (measured in decibels at one watt at 1 metre distance (dB/W/M)), often 88db is a good sensitivity, 84 is requiring a minimum of 40Watts. Anything over 100dB will need little power (as low as 10 watt). Check the power rating is in RMS (route mean square) and is equal for each channel.
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----0.33 The Loudspeakers
Start paying anything above £400 and you’ll get a lovely veneer outfit that look stunning. Anything less and a plain vinyl rap is all that covers the chipboard or MDF. Generally speaking, loudspeakers are the point, which will flatter or wane a system. Buy the wrong set of boxes and you could have spoilt a brilliant setup from performing its best.
These days’ speakers can come in a number of packages. The first and most common is in hifi – simple pair packages hi fi speakers. Then the Rear speakers’ pairs, and the centre. The next along the line is a full blown home theatre package incorporating all the channels. However don’t be attracted to simple subwoofer/satellite systems – these usually are poor at producing anything above hearable sounds. They really aren’t for high performance equipment, which you are after -- but like actors in soaps there are good systems around. The best option is to buy a larger scale subwoofer/satellite system. Something like the Energy Take 5 system – this £500 system has it all a large subwoofer tiny speakers (wall mountable) and sounds quite excellent (http://mikeelectrical.epinions.com/484055_Energy_Take_5_Home_Theater_System). If you do wish to steer that way then you could buy separately. I found a system in the back of magazines’ advertisements with prices reduced by up to 50%! I saw some £200 floorstanding speakers for just £100, some small compact BiPole rear speakers for £80 (£200)! And a small centre speaker for only £80(£150)! This equals a system costing £260 marked down form £550 and beats the life out of the Energy system.
The speakers come in various forms, floorstander, stand-mounter, centre, rear. They each sound confusing but are simple in their own way:
Floorstander: tall but thin (e.g. 20cm wide) speaker with lots of bass.
Stand mounter – small compact (e.g. 18cm wide 35cm tall) punchy bass and smooth treble – clear and detailed.
Centre speaker – small and wide speaker that is for mounting on a TV or beneath a screen.
BiPole rear speaker – uses two sides of its cabinet to create sound – making a spacious sound – wrapping around you.
TriPole rear speaker – uses three sides of its cabinet to produce a wide but defining sound (great for music and movies).
The majority of speakers for the centre or, rear are usually small in size, and can often be wall mounted.
Power-wise again they don’t need to be above the RMS output of the receiver because the only time it breaches that is though dynamic output, - speakers can usually cope with (short term) power of up to 400 watt if they are 100w rated speakers.
Sensitivity is most crucial; get the same sensitivity for all speakers to make setting up a doddle.
The key things to check for are:
Binding posts – a threaded post for accepting either bare wire or a banana plug. If they have two pairs you can Bi-wire or Bi-amp.
Ported – check they have a front or no port, a rear ported design will make positioning hard – to close to the wall and the bass is keen to boom.
Wall mountable – check for a screw-hook where there is a screw head sized hole at the rear with a small slot to accept the thread.
Included spikes – for floorstanding speakers, spikes are required for carpet use – it gives a more stable platform. For bare wood/tiled floors, use pennies if the spikes are irremovable, they go under the spike onto the floor – attach with blue tack.
Massfillable – when floorstanders are in position you can fill them will sand or lead shot to keep them on the floor. This can be done with some stands too.
Low depth – for rear speakers and centre speakers – low depth is an advantage for appearance as big things which stick out don’t look great.
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----0.34 The TV
For most a CRT (cathode ray tube) type of TV is the standard choice. You can use a Scart connection from the DVD player. Or if your want to connect the receiver to the tele and use it as a switching post you can run a S-Video lead from the receiver to the TV, or if possible a Scart lead. Remember this: the video connections each have a use;
Composite – camcorder use this as a single socket similar to RCA for video connection only. Can be used for VCRs and on some TVs with inputs on the front.
S-Video – separates brightness and contrast into two offering better quality over composite – a five-pin single socket carrying only video. Used on modern camcorders and some TVs with a socket at the rear.
Scart – can be used for RGB (red green blue) or S-Video. It offers a selection determined by the output of the source and the input on the TV.
Component – RGB separated RCA sockets, which are used for monitors ranging from LCD (liquid crystal display) projectors to CRT projectors, to Plasma displays.
Wherever possible use the best option (the one lowest down the list). If using S-Video/Composite or Component you don’t need an audio channel to the TV. However you could use the stereo output from the source(s).
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Debriefing
Now you should fully understand the basics of what and how home theatre connects it ‘self within theory. To learn more about home theatre and how it begins to connect physically in practice and buying advice refer to Part 2: Deciding Purchasing and Installing
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