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A GOLDEN BEACH, RIGHT ON HAVANA'S DOORSTEP, PLAYA DEL ESTE

Aug 22 '01

The Bottom Line One of my favourite places to rest my head on a warm beach towel.

Just to the east of Havana, Cuba's capital is a small resort beach area Playa del Este, The East Havana Beaches. The area was one of the first resort areas in the country, and the has been for the most part superseded by the larger resort areas of Varadero, Guardalavaca, Cayo Coco, and Santa Lucia. The hotels here are smaller and older than those in the newer areas. One advantage of this is that they're for the most part cheaper.

Another advantage is the close proximity to Havana. The capital is less than thirty minutes away, and both buses and taxis are available for those who want to go in for a day or an evening. Playa del Este was a major vacation destination for Cubanos from in and around Havana. That is until the recent economic situation forced most Cubans to forgo their vacations. The beaches here are still full of Habaneros though on the weekends and holidays.

The Playa del Este consists of four beaches in total. Two pairs grouped with two small towns which share names with two of the beaches. To the west Playa El Megano and Playa Santa Maria Del Mar are located by the town of Santa Maria Del Mar. East of this and separated by the Rio Itabo, are Playa Boca Ciega and Playa Guanabo. Both of these are near the larger town of Guanabo.

All of the beaches are public ones, even those with tourist hotels on them. This allows one the chance to meet and interact with the Cubans.

Santa Maria Del Mar is the smaller of the two towns in Playa del Este. The town itself is for the most part away from the beach and up on the side of a hill. The beach area itself is reserved for the couple of medium sized hotels, and a variety of restaurants, and bars either on the beach or close to it.

The beach area contains numerous hard currency (dollar) restaurants, cafes and bars as well as limited water sports equipment for rental. There are also a couple of convenience stores, a pharmacy, and clinic, a supermarket and a couple of cigar shops.

The two main hotels in the area are the Atlantico and the Tropicoco. The first is the better of the two, a nice all inclusive four star right on the beach. The second is a more budget place. I've stayed there and the best I can say is it's cheap and clean. the food is nothing spectacular. It also has an all inclusive option and is popular with French Canadian charter groups. There are seven or so smaller hotel properties or villas for rent in the immediate area.

To the east of Santa Maria del Mar is the larger town of Guanabo. There are fewer hotels here, but a there quite a few legal guest houses or casa particulars. There are also two banks, several shops, restaurants and bars for tourists or anyone with US Dollars. Wandering about the town is a good way to experience the real Cuba, far from the enclosed resorts.

As I said perhaps the main attraction to the place is the proximity to Havana. It allows you to combine a visit to the Cuban capital with a stay at beach front hotel. This aside however, don't overlook the charm the area itself has to offer. In fact those visiting and staying in Havana may find it a worthwhile day trip.

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JAMES23

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