SAY SI TO CIENFUEGOS
Sep 04 '01
The Bottom Line It's quaint, and maybe a little harder to get to, but worth the trip.
For those who wish to experience a Cuba less predictable than the resorts and beaches of Varadero, Cienfuegos is as far as you can get off the beaten tourist track and still find accommodation. The fourth-largest city in Cuba, a major port and industrial centre, Cienfuegos is located in the southern part of the island on Jagua Bay, which is also known as Cienfuegos Bay.
The city was settled for the most part by French plantation owners fleeing Haiti at the beginning of the 19th century. They had a substantial influence on local architecture. Examples of this can be found in the Punta Gorda district. It is in the southern most part of the city on a narrow peninsula. Several older mansions of the original plantation owners and other city elite can be found here. Although somewhat rundown, they are well worth a visit.
At the tip of the peninsula is the Hotel Jagua and Palacio de Valle. The latter is a somewhat misplaced Moorish Palace overlooking the bay and the city. Connecting this area with downtown is Calle 37, also known as the Prado. It's the longest street in Cuba and also includes a small Malecon, or seafront promenade.
In the centre of the city, is Plaza Jose Marti. It features the cathedral, a band stand and the Theatro Terry Thomas, where Enrico Caruso once performed. Move only a couple of blocks west of the square and there is a sharp contrast to the beautiful restored edifices in the main square. Here things are a little more rundown and decrepit. It requires a bit of imagination to picture them in their former glory.
Attractions outside or near Cienfuegos include the Tomas Acea Cemetery, with many famous and infamous crypts and the main gate which looks like a scale replica of the Parthenon. On the road to Playa Rancho Luna is the Soledad Botanical Gardens with more than 2,000 examples of various plant life. Don't miss the cactus garden shaped like Cuba.
A 20-minute drive from the city, Playa Rancho Luna is the closest beach to the city. The beach is a kilometre in length and shaped like a half-moon. A coral reef connects the two ends. In the middle of the week it's almost deserted but on holidays and weekends, large crowds gather from the city and surrounding towns.
The nearby village of Passacabalos can be reached by either road from nearby Playa Rancho Luna or by ferry directly from the city four times daily. Situated at the narrow entrance to the bay, it is guarded by Jagua Castle which is open to the public. For anyone spending a full day, there is a great seafood restaurant in Passacabalos and cafeterias in both Jagua Castle and the nearby Passacaballos Hotel.
If coming by road, stop at the lighthouse just before the narrows. Here, there's a small maritime museum which the lighthouse operator is quite proud of and eager to show off.
For the more industrious, there's the climb to the top of the lighthouse. It has a great view of the surrounding area, including the uncompleted nuclear reactor complex to the southwest of the city abandoned by the Russians in 1989.
Also worth noting is the large painted greeting on the western side of the narrows. This was for visiting Soviet warships which operated from here during the Cold War. The infamous Bay of Pigs, the site of the failed 1961 CIA-backed invasion, is an hour's drive west of the city.
There is only one tourist hotel in Cienfuegos, the five star Hotel Jagua in Punta Gorda beside the Palacio de Valle. It was built in the 1950s with gambling money and run by the brother of then-president Fulgencio Batista. It has all the normal amenities one expects: Swimming pool, satellite television, gift shops, rental car and tourist desk, restaurant and bar. It mainly caters to business travellers and European bus package tours. The only official 24-hour taxi stand is located out front.
Three hotels are located outside the city. The 188-room Hotel Passacabalos, while impressive, never appears to be open and is not listed by any Canadian tour operators. On Playa Rancho Luna itself are both the 225-room Hotel Rancho Luna and the 47-room Faro Luna. The former is a three-star, all-inclusive beach resort popular with both Canadian and European package groups. The latter is a more intimate place that usually caters to scuba divers as it boasts an excellent dive shop. The sunset from Faro Luna's patio is spectacular.
Finally there is a large selection of casa particulares available in and around the city. These are rooms in private homes that the owners are allowed to rent out for hard currency. The costs vary from US $10.00 to US $40.00 per night. Some include a private washroom, and/or entrance.
For dining, there is a fair choice of establishments running from fast food to elegant surroundings. The Restaurant in the Palacio de Valle has an excellent seafood menu at a reasonable price ($60.00 to $80.00 US for two with wine). There is also a piano bar for after-dinner entertainment.
Several other seafood restaurants are all within a quick walk of The Hotel Jagua. While not as elegant as the Palacio, the food is of the same high quality. Recommended is La Coveandoga, across the street from the hotel.
Another alternative is to eat at a private home, or Paladare. Cuban families are now allowed to operate small private restaurants called paladares. Dinner here can cost as little as $5 to $10 per person depending on what is available. It is an excellent opportunity to see how Cubans live and comes highly recommended. It seems that almost every taxi driver or hotel worker has a friend or relative who operates one.
At the other end of the scale there are several "Rapido" fast food places in Cienfuegos. Standard fare is hamburgers, pizza, and chicken, with soft drinks or beer. The large "Rapido" on the Prado near the Malecon has become the main place to see and be seen especially by the young. With the abundance of vintage cars in the parking lot, and the open air layout, it actually resembles a 1950s drive-in. All that seems to be missing is the local equivalent of "Fonzie," and some nights he's there.
Located a few minutes drive outside the city on the road to Playa Rancho Luna is La Finca Isabella. La Finca is an old farm turned into a restaurant and night club. There is dining and nightly entertainment, including a rodeo. Afterwards, there is a disco until the wee morning hours. Most of the patrons are tourists from nearby resorts and those Cubans with dollars to spend. There are several other night spots in the city itself, either located on the prado or in and around Plaza Jose Marti.
Cienfuegos is approximately a three-hour drive from either Havana or Varadero. There is also train service from Havana, but this is not recommended. Daily bus service on special air conditioned express buses is also available. There is a direct charter air service from Toronto once a week during low season and up to three times per week in high season. These flights can be combined with some of the resorts and hotels noted and/or others in nearby Trinidad or Playa Giron. Most travel agencies can provide an array of options for visitors to Cuba
MORE INFO: Cuba Tourist Board 55 Queen St. E., Suite 705, Toronto, Ont., M5C 1R6. Phone: (416) 362-0700; Fax: (416) 362-6799
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Member: James Smith
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