Mighty Fall Of The AXIM:
        I’ve had my Dell Axim x50v for five months now, since July, I believe. Well, unfortunately, there were a few months where it was unusable. I noticed a digitizer issue during a solitaire game one day. The stylus tap didn’t match where I was clicking on the screen. So, I tried what every PDA user would have: realign the screen in screen prefs. From then, I was unable to get out of that screen, no matter how many times I tapped the dots. It was irritating. I tapped them perfectly every time. Eventually, I gave up to such futile efforts. For a while, I just let it lay around, collecting dust, while I used my Tungsten T to fulfill my electronic dependency. The whole time I tried to blame the issue on a manufacturer defect, but finally succumb to the fact that it was indeed my fault for dropping it on a ground more unyielding than concrete.
        I tried calling Dell themselves at an attempt to solve my issue, an action in vain. They said that they wouldn’t do anything because I bought it on eBay. So it sat once again. Over time, my human instinct of curiosity caused me to start thinking about dismantling it. I went to Wal-Mart to get a precision screw driver kit for $0.88 to take out the unusual screws they had implanted in the back. And that’s what started my mission that got my Axim fixed.

What Is This Digitizer Thingamajigger You Speak Of?
           Trust me, if you found this review on your own, then you already know. A digitizer is what PDAs and other touch-screen devices use as input to tell the computer where on the screen you are tapping. You aren’t really touching the LCD picture itself, but a separate piece on top of it. The digitizer is made up of three layers: a thin sheet of glass on the bottom, a flexible plastic on top, and an unnoticeably thin layer of gel in between. This is for the Axim, anyway. Other devices may differ in design, but the same principle applies.
           The digitizer replacement piece for the Dell Axim x50v is mainly just a thin piece of rectangular glass. Along the left side is a green strip. Surrounding the perimeter of the back of the glass is a sticky strip meant to hold the digitizer in place, with a removable plastic cover on it to keep it from sticking until ready.v And spouting out of the bottom, left-hand corner is a flat cable with four leads that plugs into the Axim.
           Being that the digitizer is a completely different piece from the screen can mean BIG savings in repairs. As long as you know what you are doing. But fear not, in this review you will learn how to:

                 -->        Tell B/W A Broken Screen & A Broken Digitizer
                 -->        How To Go About Purchasing This Digitizer
                 -->        Dismantle The x50v To Install The New Piece

How Do I Know If I Need A Digitizer Or A New Screen Altogether?
           Now just because you have a screen that is split from top to bottom, as mine was, doesn’t mean that the whole thing is ruined. If you do not understand the workings of touch-screen LCDS, you may not be able to differentiate the problem from what it isn’t. Below is a quick list of possible screen issues and explanations as to what they mean:

# 01 --->           My screen is split or cracked partially or the whole way across the PDA, but the underlying picture is fully in tact and functioning properly.

           A: In this situation, it is most likely that it is ONLY THE DIGITIZER that is damaged. The LCD is still in perfect condition despite this hindrance. Pressing too hard on the screen, dropping something on it or dropping it on the ground can cause this. Be this your situation, you need only REPLACE THE DIGITIZER.

# 02 --->           My screen is showing black lines across the picture, big black blots, or a full black or a completely blank screen.

           A: Hate to say it, but you’re SOL if this is your situation. When this occurs, especially the black lines, you will need to purchase an entire screen kit. This will run you upward of $200.00, nearly half of the cost of the Axim itself. Of course, replacing the entire screen is far simpler than just replacing the digitizer, which requires disassembling the screen.

Getting Your Hands On One Of These:
           Once you know that you are in need of a new digitizer part, you must now found the replacement part. Your sure chance of getting one can be found on [www.PDAparts.com] which is also [www.GetHighTech.com], the same site. I paid $65.00 for my brand new piece, but they are currently only $50. If you’d rather use eBay, that website also sells the product in their eBay store:

           eBay User ID: gethightech.com
           Store URL: stores.ebay.com/GetHighTech-com-PDA-Parts-Store
           Search Query: x50v digitizer

           The digitizer is a fragile piece, but you can be sure that it will arrive in perfect condition. PDAparts.com will wrap it in a sheet of bubble wrap and package it in a 6x4x8 box full of popcorn puffs [packing peanuts, etc.]. It could fall off the Empire State Building and wouldn't break.

Journey To The Center Of The DELL :
           Now that you're thinking that you can finally fix your Axim without having to pay for a new one, some bad news blocks the way. You have the replacement and you're ready to get going, but there are no instructions on how to do it!?!?! Finding decent instructions on the web is difficult for the time being. So, without further ado, I shall explain the step-by-step, idiot-proof method for installing the new digitizer. The total time required for me to do this project was only ten (ten) minutes. But I know the inside of the x50v better than I know my phone number. I've had mine apart many a time. For newcomers, I would estimate the necessary time to at least an hour.

           ** Please do me a favor and do this at a table or on some hard surface of the sort.

        1. If you don't have one, I suggest you go to Wal-Mart and purchase a 6-piece, precision screwdriver kit. They sell for about 88¢, and can be found back in hardware, across from the Black-N-Decker Drills. That’s about it for tools. However, you may wish to purchase a glass-cleaning cloth and solution to go along with that. They're in the Pharmacy area and the Vision Center. They're the only necessities to complete the job.

        2. Let's start by removing the battery cover from the back of the AXIM and taking out the battery. On the top of the unit, remove any SD or CF cards [even the blank fillers]. Set these aside until the end of the project.

        3. Next, you must remove the four (4) screws that hold the front and back together. Turn to the back of the AXIM. Remove the four rubber non-slip feet, or pads. You can use the smallest screwdriver in the set or your finger nail. Be careful so you will be able reuse them afterward. You will realize that the screws are the 6-point star screws. You will need the SMALLEST flat-head screwdriver in the kit to unscrew them. Don't attempt the use something else, as you may strip the screw, and get screwed. After removing all four pads and screws, set them aside. You may wish to label the screws to keep track of them for reassembly. For the record, the PDA will stay together perfectly without the screws, should you lose them.

        4. This next task requires strong nerves, viewer discretion is advised. You must begin dissection of the AXIM. You will start on the top of the x50v, where the CF and SD cards go. Using one of one of the 'flat-head' precision screwdrivers, insert the tip into the crevice between the SD slot and the IR window, where the dull black and the shiny black meet. Twist the screwdriver in a few places across the top to separate the front panel from the back. When it pops, continue that around the sides of the AXIM to pop the whole faceplate off. At some point, you may need to pull the rest off when it gets stubborn. Force will not break it, in moderation. It is flexible and has plenty of give. Once you have have the whole faceplate off, set it aside.

           ** Note: There are NO LOOSE PIECES IN THE AXIM x50v. Nothing will fall out of place during this whole process. Even the buttons are self-held in place.

        5. Now you are exposed to the innards of the AXIM. With one hand, holding the unit by the sides, turn the unit upsidedown so that the screen faces down and let the whole inside fall into your other hand, leaving the back plastic case in your first hand. If it doesn't fall out on it's own, shake it a little. With that done, set the back casing aside. You should now have just the green board with the screen.

        6. Time to take a break. Go run to the bathroom and then get a can of Pepsi out of the fridge, serve on the rocks. Watch a half-hour of TV to loosen the nerves. Dump the ice in the sick, rinse out your cup, and head back to your project.

        7. Back at it once more. The objective is to remove the complete screen [LCD & digitizer]. To do this, place the AXIM on the table with the screen facing down. Don't worry about scratching the screen since you are replacing that part anyway. On the back, opposite side of the screen, there is a black, plastic piece covering half of the surface. To remove this, you will have to use the smallest screwdriver to unscrew the four (4) small, shiny screws. There are two along the left and two along the right. Check to make sure the mic is not wrapped under the top part of the black, plastic piece. When freed, the black piece will come off. Set it side, labeling the screws if necessary. Those screws are what held the screen to the board, so the screen and the screen housing will now wander freely.

        8. Looking at the back, along the bottom right-hand side of the green board, there are two golden, flat plugs. The wide one belongs to the LCD, and the other [with four leads] is the digitizer input. You will need to pull both of these tabs out. These digitizer tab is held in by a little white clip. Pull the white clip out and release that tab. The large LCD tab can be undone by flipping up the black bar where it goes in. Once both are detached, you can take the screen out of the housing. Pull the screen off the board. Set the rest aside and get ready to dismantle the screen.

        9. The purpose of this next step is to separate the digitizer from the underlying LCD. By now, you should be left holding a 3.7" screen with two flat tabs sticking out the bottom left-hand side. Using the smallest of the precision screwdrivers, you are going to try and pry the top plate of glass [digitizer] off of the metal frame. Most likely you will bust the glass in a place or two. Should you have a problem prying it off the metal, you can slide the screwdriver along the perimeter where the metal goes down over the sides. The frame will bend out of shape and the glass will probably split in the process. After prying, using either method, you should end up with the LCD and the digitizer, two pieces. If you take off the glass and the metal rim on which it resides, then throw both away. If you managed to spare the metal rim, then good for you, but it is not mandatory for putting in the new digitizer.

          ** And so begins the healing process

        10. Go ahead and place the LCD portion back into the screen housing on the board. Make sure you put the large LCD tab through the opening in the housing and not over the edge. Connect the tab to the back of the board in it's proper location and push the black bar down to lock it in place. During this part, the screen housing and screen will not stay put since the screws aren't in the back yet. Now you can connect the new digitizer to the back of the board where the old one came out. Put the white clip back in to secure it, if you haven't lost it. If you salvaged the metal frame that the glass was on, then you can pull the protective plastic off the back of the new one and stick it in place. If you ended up throwing out that piece, then leave the piece of plastic on the back, covering the sticky strip. You will not need it to keep it in place [though it will wobble until you completely reassemble the unit].

        11. Holding the screen in place with one hand, put the black cover on the back and reinsert the four shiny screws. Wrap the microphone wires under the hook at the top. Holding the board in one hand with two fingers, reinsert the board into the back casing once again. You will have to insert it at an angle with the top going in first and sliding it up. It may take a little trial and error to get it in properly. You will know when its right when the sync plug at the bottom is completely against the casing. If you bought the cleaning cloth, now is the time to use it. Gently wipe the LCD and both sides of the digitizer clean. Not doing this can leave unsightly fingerprints and other debris lodged beneath the surface. When all is well, place the top case piece over the unit and press around the perimeter to snap it back in place. If you wish, screw in the four screws in the back and reposition the rubber feet.

NOW TRY IT OUT!!

IF IT WORKS, THEN CONGRATS!!

IF NOT, THEN IM ME:
          AIM: shippo52287

OR CALL:

          1-(864)-787-5647

AND YOU CAN ALWAYS EMAIL ME:

          shippo225@gmail.com
          shippo522@yahoo.com


GOOD LUCK!!

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