TULUM, CLIFF TOP MAYAN RUINS ON THE MEXICAN RIVIERA
Sep 26 '01
The Bottom Line Tulum is the most visited of all the original Mayan sites in all of Mexico and Central America.
Tulum in the Mexican State of Quintano Roo is one of the most visited of all the Mayan ruins. It is located only a couple of hours' drive south of Cancun and is easily reached from there. It is also a favourite destination for tourists from Cruise Ships docking in nearby Cozumel.
The walled city is perched on a 12 metre cliff above the Caribbean providing a spectacular back drop to these magnificent structures. Tulum was built and occupied by the Mayans around 1200 AD. It was eventually abandoned in the 16th century some seventy years after the Spanish began their conquest of Mexico.
One of the major advantages of Tulum over other larger sites such as Coban and Tikal is the ease of which one can reach it. The modern Highway 307 runs south from Cancun to the large reception centre built near the site itself. The spectacular cliff top location itself is also a draw, and a photographer's dream.
Finally unlike many other sites which are covered and obscured by jungle and undergrowth, that is not the case here. The entire area, some 380 metres long by 165 metres wide, is virtually free of brush and vegetation. The remains of the sixty odd building and other structures can easily be seen. Most of the three metre high perimeter walls which enclose three sides of the town are also intact.
The largest structure in Tulum and certainly the most impressive is El Castillo, the Castle. This Pyramid shaped building dominates the site, perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean. It is thought it may have originally served as some form of watch tower or navigation aid. There is a courtyard and several smaller buildings surrounding it.
Located just in front of El Castillo is the Temple of the Frescos, a small but almost completely intact structure. Inside you'll see an ancient fresco done in traditional Mayan style that still has traces of the original paints on in. One reference book on Tulum reports that originally all the buildings were painted a bright red.
One of the best places to se the entire site is from the watch tower on the north west corner of the site on the perimeter wall. From this small building one can get a spectacular view of the whole site. From here one can see El Castillo and its accompanying smaller temples and the remains of the Gran Palacio and several smaller buildings which were probably residences.
There is a small inlet between the hills on which El Castillo and the Temple of the Wind God are perched on. Here there is a small but inviting beach. The sand is whiter than any found at the resorts farther north, and the water clearer and more refreshing. It is the perfect place to take a break and a quick dip after touring the ruins.
Tulum is open daily from 8:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m.. Admission to the site at the time of writing is 30 Pesos ($3.00 US), with a further 30 Peso charge for video cameras. There is no admission charge on Sundays.
The site itself is located about a ten minute walk along a path from the visitor centre which is just off Highway 307. There is a small shuttle that runs between the site and visitor centre for those who don't feel like walking.
There are several multi lingual guides available at the entrance for those not part of an organized tour group. A guided tour of the site usually takes between 45 minutes to an hour. A guide is not really necessary though as all the major buildings have signs in English, Spanish, and Mayan. Good guidebooks are also available in the visitor centre.
The visitor centre contains a couple of money exchanges (the rates are much worse than in either Cancun or Playa del Carmen). Washrooms and several restaurants and snack bars. Prices as would be expected are highly inflated. Better selection and value for a meal can be had in the nearby modern town of Tulum south of the site.
There are also several souvenir and gift shops, selling replicas of Mayan Art, colourful blankets and hammocks and a variety of other items. One tip, there are several similar places on the side of Highway 307 on the way south to Tulum. The prices at these road side stands are much better than at the visitor centre. Several Mayans in traditional costumes can be found about the visitor centre and will pose for pictures with tourists for a small tip.
The best time to visit Tulum is early in the morning before the tourist buses from Cancun arrive. It is still cool and one can appreciate the grounds without the crowds. It is also the best chance to get pictures of the ruins without anyone in them. If you can't make it first thing in the morning, then wait until later in the day, when the crowds have departed.
If you can't get there early then there is a gap around noon when the groups from Cancun have either departed or headed to the beach, and the groups from the cruise ships from Cozumel have yet to arrive. A dip in the sea on that beach I noted is a good idea while waiting for the crowds to thin out.
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