MEKNES THE SEAT OF POWER OF MOULAY ISMAIL
Nov 19 '01 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line An interesting ancient city and it's builder and ruler.
Meknes lies in the north of Morocco, on a dusty plain between the Riff and Middle Atlas Mountains. Meknes more than any other city in their country can be identified with one man. From 1672 to 1727 a period of fifty five years it was the seat of power for one of the most powerful rulers the country has ever known.
Moulay Ismail perhaps more than any other man united Morocco into a nation. He solidified the borders, and threw out invading armies and European traders. Later he would treat with European monarchs including Louis XIV of France, the Sun King, as his equals.
Moulay Ismail turned the small provincial town of Meknes into his capital. During his reign a series of massive constructions were undertaken. No less than fifty palaces were built, most within the confines of what is now referred to as the "Ville Imperial."
Meknes was surrounded by no less than fifteen miles of massive walls. Twenty major gates allowed access to the city. They also allowed Moulay Ismail's army of 140,000 egress to the surrounding countryside and the numerous punitive expeditions they were sent on to restore and maintain order.
With his passing the new ruler, as was often the case, moved the capital, and Meknes once again reverted to its former status. Even nature conspired against it, and a massive earthquake in the eighteenth century destroyed or damaged parts of this imperial city. Much however remains to delight the visitor.
One of the most spectacular buildings that remains standing in Meknes is the Rouah or the Heri Mansour (Mansour's Granary) . It was constructed by Moulay Ismail as a stable for 12,000 horses for his cavalry. Not much remains of the original stables today aside from ruins. Underneath though are the massive storage rooms and tunnels which would have held, food, munitions and other supplies sufficient to see Meknes through almost any siege.
Moulay Ismail's Mausoleum is one of the few Mosques which non Muslims may enter. In one of the ante chambers, as in all mosques, are found intricate and beautiful fountains. here the faithful ritually cleanse themselves prior to prayer. Passing through this one comes to the main chamber where his remains lie in state.
Entrance to this final room is severely restricted, but visitors may discretely look through the entranceway. Of interest are the two matched Louis XIV clocks which flank his crypt. A gift from one monarch to another.
Meknes is easily reached by a modern highway from nearby Fes a couple of hours away. For those wishing to stay here longer than one day there is a fair selection of hotels and other amenities in the city. As is the case in most Moroccan towns and cities these are for the most part located in the "Ville Nouvelle", the modern European part of the city built by the French during their occupation of Morocco. However the majority of the interesting sites, again as in all Moroccan cities, are mainly in the Medina, the old Arab part of the city.
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