Rathlin Island - one for the birds!
Written: Jul 04 '06 (Updated Jul 04 '06)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: The quiet, and the walking.
Cons: Not much to do if the weather is poor.
The Bottom Line: A good choice for a visit away from the madding crowds of the Giants Causeway.
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| cr01's Full Review: Rathlin Island, County Antrim, Northern Ireland |
The small 30-year old workhorse ferry wearily chugged into the small port on the mainland at Ballycastle, Antrim Northern Ireland.
While we waited for the two cars and half a dozen locals to depart, a large and giddily excited school party joined the queue waiting to board. Obviously, no one had told their sturdy ten-year-old daughters about the stiff off shore breeze, judging by the number of midriffs on show. Perhaps it was more likely that the girls just weren’t prepared to listen, and wanted to show off their latest outfits. The boys were more sensibly dressed.
It was soon our turn. As we walked onto the ferry, I scanned the choice of seating; either side of the boat had two short rows of cheap plastic chairs taped together, facing each other. In the centre of the boat, a high-sided pink painted furniture van and a 4X4 precariously perched, ready to go.
I chose my seat, and as we set off, I stayed where I was, although the swaying van behind me gently nudged my back with each wave. Shielded from the sunshine by the high sides of the “cargo” our trip truly was cold.
The school party sat opposite and alongside me, excited even at the sight of yet another jellyfish or seagull, pointing and yelling out to sea while valiantly tugging down the short layers of clothing they had chosen to wear.
The 45-minute trip enabled us to get just that little bit too cold. At our destination, Rathlin Island, I nipped to the public conveniences just along from the harbour and was delighted to find them heated. This, combined with our brisk walk up the hill soon brought the warmth back into my limbs. So, this is Rathlin.
Our day return ferry ticket cost £9 ($16) per person. While vehicles go onto the island, spaces are usually reserved for the island’s locals. Given the small size of the island, and the distinct scarcity of tarmac, it doesn’t make sense to try to arrange to take your car across the sea.
Geography and history
Rathlin Island is a small island approximately 6 miles north of the Antrim mainland. The island is “L” shaped, and about 6 miles long one way, and 4 miles the other, with the strip of land being approximately a mile across.
The island is sparsely populated, even more so now than in the past. The island has a choppy and tough history. First, a target of marauding Vikings in the middle ages, it also suffered in the late 1500’s when the English murdered the hiding family of local rebel Sorley Boy MacDonnell. Not content with victory over the family, the English chose to kill most of the onlookers at the same time by herding them over the cliffs. I’m always so proud of those things that make Britain great.
Later came the potato famine of the mid 1800’s. This was another period of high oppression from the English; Irish farmers were forced to sell their grain and cattle to pay land rent, while locals starved because of the potato crop failure. Over 500 Rathlin Islanders left for greener pastures in the new world during the famines. In those days, over 1200 people lived on Rathlin.
Today, there are only around 90 inhabitants on the island, although we spotted a terrace of new build property springing up around the harbour area, indicating a renewed desirability to live on the island.
Given the history of English oppression, I was pleasantly surprised with the friendly welcome we received from an elderly local who passed the time of day with us while he tended his garden. Perhaps Rathlin Islanders feel they have evened the score against the English by sheltering Robert the Bruce. There is a cave on Rathlin, where myth has Robert the Bruce watching a spider doggedly try to weave a web, thus giving him the idea and determination to strike back against the English.
I have visited a number of Robert the Bruce caves in the Scottish Western Islands over the years. The fact that this one is unsung and difficult to access (apart from by boat), gives credence to the idea that this is the one, rather than simply another tourist marketers dream. Another revenge moment against the English probably came when the intensely irritating Sir Richard Branson was rescued from the sea just off Rathlin Island, after one of his attempted balloon trips around the world almost turned to disaster.
Much of the island coast is low cliffs, but here and there I could spot some of the basalt formations that make the Giants Causeway such an attraction. I'm sure more would come here too, if only visitors could actually beat a path to the coastline to see it. Much of the land is fenced off fields.
So, what’s to do?
Like most visitors to the island, we came to Rathlin to visit the RSPB (Royal Society for the Protection of Birds) seabird nest viewpoint at the West Lighthouse at Kebble.
The island does have a mini bus service, which takes you from the ferry stop to the Kebble sea bird view point if you want to take it, although you may have to wait a couple of trips before it’s your turn. We preferred to walk rather than wait with the school kids. As there are only a couple of ferry trips each day, by the time we walked the 4 miles to Kebble, we had the place to ourselves.
Our route, although on the road, was pleasant enough and steady with only fairly gentle and short inclines. Unfortunately, there are very few paths on Rathlin, and most of the available walking is along the road.
Apart from an old local driving to pick up his daily paper from the shop, the only traffic to disturb us turned out to be from the mini-bus. If you find yourself in trouble, you can flag down the bus for a lift in either direction.
In the fields, we spotted a couple of hares. In Northern Ireland, hares are apparently rare, so we were quite lucky (although we do spot them quite frequently at home). We also managed to see a huge Buzzard using the thermals to soar while trying to spot prey in the fields below.
Towards the end of our walk, we passed through a small area of nature reserve, interesting for the outline of a few old abandoned houses and field boundaries. These date from the days when the island was more heavily populated. The signposts told us that the reserve was there to preserve a rare plant. Unfortunately, as the boards didn’t actually trouble to describe the plant, I may have seen it but not recognised it, or even sat on it while I adjusted my walking boots. Whoops!
Our walk concluded at the West Lighthouse at Kebble. The lighthouse quite some undertaking when it was built 90 years ago. The builders had to first shore up the crumbling cliff face with tons of concrete, building a completely new road to get the materials to the area (the one we walked along). The lighthouse is where the bird viewing point is. To get to the viewpoint, we had to navigate a fairly long line of steep steps, down the side of the slope of concrete. Unfortunately, it is not a disabled friendly attraction.
At the bottom of the steps we found a small RSPB booth, selling all things bird (but no KFC franchise or eggs on offer!). RSPB memberships and cuddly puffin toys were the order of the day. We also spoke with a couple of the very friendly and helpful volunteers.
One young American volunteer handed me a pair of binoculars to get a better view of the nesting birds on the nearby cliffs and sea stacks. I got a good view of the Kittiwakes and Guillemots heavily into the business of hatching their young. If you are into your birds, May and June is the ideal time for visiting Rathlin. I was pleased to discover that the sea temperature around Rathlin is cooler this year. This means more fish, and a better breeding year for the birds, after a couple of dire years.
One of Britain’s most popular birds is the Puffin, with its almost mini penguin appearance: white chest, black back and a bright flash of orange beak. Rathlin boasts the largest Puffin colony in Northern Ireland and they nest near the viewpoint.
I actually stayed longer than I anticipated because I enjoyed the sound of the urgent and frantic cries of the birds, which really were loud. However, although I found the smell of fishy bird poo rather less inviting, I lingered long enough to chat with the volunteer to discover she was staying on the island all summer to watch the birds and show visitors around.
To be honest, despite the wonderful surround sound, I was slightly disappointed with the viewpoint, although it was free, the birds were nesting maybe 30-50 feet away, and the volunteers were exceptionally friendly and knowledgeable. I got a far closer view of the nesting birds when I visited the Farne Isles on the North East English Coast. I’m spoilt I guess.
Mirroring life, the final result isn’t the best but the journey getting there is rather pleasant.
Those with slack bladders might not appreciate the news that they need to go al fresco on this side of the island. There are no public conveniences at Kebble.
From the West Lighthouse, we had the time to walk the 5 miles over to East Lighthouse, although we had to retrace our steps for much of the way. This is where Bruce’s cave stands, near to the shoreline, but the lighthouse and the path stay on the cliff top, 200 feet above. Again, apart from the lighthouse, there isn’t much to see here, although Marconi first demonstrated the use of Radio for commercial shipping here at the end of the 1800’s. Given this technological feat, strange then that Rathlin Island didn’t have a full electricity supply until 1992!
The real joy of this walk lies with the peace and solitude that comes with weaving down narrow country lanes. That said I could imagine Rathlin Island being rather bleak if the weather is poor.
Funnily enough, shopping is not the highlight of Rathlin Island, although there is a small shop and tourist shop in the main village. While we waited for the ferry, we sunk a couple of pints of fine Guinness at the local
McCuaig’s Bar, right on the harbour front. There is a cafe next door to the pub.
Just around the headland is another bay, which I am told is ripe for seal watching. Those wanting an alternative meal venue will also find the fish and chip wagon around this corner. Judging by the local woman waiting for her meal, I would say portions are huge, although I cannot vouch for the quality.
We sat at the front of McCuaig’s bar, waiting for our return ferry. Although the bar doesn’t look old, there are some nice old memorabilia items inside, including some whiskey orders from the 1800’s. Unfortunately, we missed the small museum at the boathouse.
Summing up
Anyone wanting a little solitude will do well on Rathlin Island, although I understand the ferries do get very busy at peak season. As the Island has only outdoor attractions, a visit to the island in poor weather wouldn’t be for everyone.
I think it would be fantastic to linger on the island overnight (as there are a couple of bed and breakfasts here), just to watch the sun go down in complete peace. I think anyone staying here for any longer would really have to be bird fanatics.
In one sense, I enjoyed the distinct lack of tourism on the island; the only real attractions are the walks to the lighthouses. However, given the wealth of history on the island, it is a shame that I wasn’t offered more opportunity to discover some of it for myself.
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cr01 asserts his right to be associated as the author of this review -2006-
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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cr01
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Member: Chris
Location: Yorkshire, England
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