When I read the invitation to join Bryan Carey in the celebration of his 2000 reviews on epinions I wracked my brain to think of a topic that would meet his request to write about something we read, saw or experienced during those millennium festivities…It just happened that during the year 2000 my hubby and I took a day trip from Paris to spend a delightful day and night in the Champagne Region of France and spent a good portion of that time visiting the Pommery Caves..What better than to celebrate with Bryan with a bit of the bubbly.


We had the distinct pleasure of staying overnight in the lovely city of Reims at the Chateau Boyer Les Crayeres, highly recommended to us by my dear sweet sister Robin. It was an experience I will never forget and lucky for us since The Pommery Champagne Caves was located just a short walk from the Chateau, practically across the street. Though appointments are necessary to visit the Pommery estate, usually for a small fee, our gracious hosts at Les Crayeres had an agreement with them which gave the guests at the Chateau free admission and immediate access to the cellars… we decided to take advantage of that great perk and took the tour almost immediately after our arrival…We didn’t even have to make a reservation...So, after we checked out our lavish room, freshened up and dropped off our bags, we were on our way.


A few facts

Caves: The French word for the Cellars where Champagne is stored miles underground at the perfect temperature that very special bubbly needs for perfection


There are very strict rules as to which wines can be called Champagne and only that effervescent liquid gold, produced from those very special grapes which grow in the vineyards of the Champagne region, can use that name…. it is here that connoisseurs from all over the world make their way to the two most renowned French cities, Reims and Eperney to tantalize their taste buds with these incredible sparkling wines.


Pommery is situated on some 741 acres along with the beautiful buildings and chateaux that comprise the property. It is the biggest vineyard in the Champagne region but, in all the region, there are just 30,000 acres of vineyards that produce the grapes that can rightfully be called Champagne... Every vineyard is classified, based on certain criteria but the soil quality and sun exposure are the most important…What‘s more, only 3 varieties of grapes can be grown in the Champagne Region. Only 3 kinds of grapes in such a small region to produce such a fortune of this celebratory form of drink.


These vineyards and caves of Pommery are known throughout France and the entire world as one of the finest Champagne producing cellars in France. Pommery has always stood for elegance and has been in business since 1840 when the driving force behind it’s success, Jeanne Alexandrine Louise Melin, married Alexandre Pommery and became Madame Pommery. The business took off but was never as successful as when the Madame took over after her husband’s untimely death and, in 1860, declared “I will carry on with the business and take the place of my husband“. Something not done too often during that time in history. She then planned new ways to conquer and develop new markets..She set her sights on international markets and started importing her famous bubbly to England and Russia and eventually to the United States. She was clearly ahead of her time in launching new ideas in marketing her product.


She was also a strong supporter of the arts and one of the most surprising sights to see in these cellars are the four monumental bas reliefs carved into the walls of chalk that still exist today, along with a life size portrait of the famous Madame..



Our Tour

Our little group met in the grand main room, then entered what seemed like a magical subterranean world after descending a considerably steep staircase of 116 steps, steps worn smooth by the countless visitors and workers who have come before you. They are the link between the outside world and this fascinating labyrinth which seem to take you on a journey through time as you walk through this strange and unique under world .


These galleries, as they are called, are named after each city where Pommery Champagne is sold, since nearly 75% of it’s production is destined to be exported throughout the world…The names are written above the arches and I was so surprised to see my hometown Miami with it’s own gallery off to one side. Everywhere you look during the tour you see names of famous cities displayed above each gallery and in every direction are the bottles, thousands of them stored during that aging process until they are deemed fit for drinking


In this strange world of shadows and silence lie the wines of Champagne as the birth of each bottle begins, starting with the fermentation process, where the bottles rest on their sides upon wooden slats, while the precious bubbles begin to form, “a clear happy color,” which is the distinguishing mark of the Pommery Champagnes. Each bottle needs to be turned on a regular basis and that is done on a precise and timely schedule. Our guide demonstrated the process of hand turning each bottle, one at a time. It doesn’t seem like much but keeping track of which bottle was turned when must be a complex task I would think


It is this subterranean environment which gives Champagne it’s dryness along with the tangy aftertaste and that lightheaded, wonderful feeling in your head...Chalk has a special meaning in the region and that chalky environment is what those tiny Champagne grapes need, that dry soil and the plentiful sunshine in which to grow. Without those two ingredients there would be no Champagne industry.


Madam Pommery knew all that but took it one step further when, in 1868, she hired workman from all over the country to begin work on what would become the largest construction site of that time when she had 120 chalk mines, used as quarries by the Romans, linked together for miles and miles with high vaulted, arched galleries...These chalk caves, from those ancient times, emerged from the vast cake of chalk which runs beneath the surface of this entire region….They are every bit as spectacular as is the Champagne which we all enjoy so much today


The tour is simply fascinating, the multitudes of bottles, the carved artwork high up on the walls, the explanation of how Champagne is created...but wait, the best is yet to come! The tastings! But first, you have to make it back up that giant staircase of 116 steps. Going down was easy but going back up well, I must say, I was a bit winded and ready for a cool glass of bubbly when I reached the top..But, then again I was ready for my favorite of all drinks from the moment we walked in the place!


The inviting visitor center was every bit as enticing as the cellars were, with it's world renowned giant solid Oak barrel, designed by the famous cabinet maker and glass artist, Emile Galle, who created what is probably his most impressive work for Madame Pommery. It can hold the equivalent of 100,000 bottles of champagne and the bas relief carvings reaching right out of the wood are just extraordinary.


There are comfortable sofas and sitting areas throughout the center to relax after the "grueling" climb back up those stairs and it was a pleasure just sitting there while sipping our champagne. Since it started to rain while we were underground we had no problem just hanging out watching and tasting!


Then, of course, they tempt you to bring some of those bottles home with you by offering them at a substantially lower prices then you could find in America… The bottles are displayed on a table along one wall in every size imaginable, from the largest bottle I’ve ever seen to the smallest…There is even one variety for sale that can only be purchased on there and not available anywhere else...It turned out to be my favorite and we bought a few bottles for ourselves and gifts but getting them home was another story all together and not an easy task...And now, who knows how that can be accomplished with flying the way it is today. I guess shipping would be the most logical answer but then the cost to ship would probably eat up whatever you save…it’s a conundrum. I’m just glad we were able to bring home the bottles we chose and just last year we were able to share one special bottle with my good friend Jayne who went on the same tour at a later date...She still has a bottle waiting for us the next time we can get together.


All in all, this tour of the Pommery Caves was a highlight of my trip to France during that year of the Millennium celebration...when we got back on the train for Paris, schlepping our bags and bottles of bubbly, I was a little sad to leave, we really enjoyed our time in the Champagne region seeing the sights of Reims, visiting the Pommery Caves and our stay at that luxurious Chateau, but, when I spotted La Tour Eiffel again with the year 2000 blazing on all four sides so bright and so impressive, I was of course, really glad to be back in Paris again.


A few hints:

Serve the champagne in tulip-shaped glasses or Champagne flutes..This enhances the champagnes effervescence and allows you to fully appreciate it’s bouquet. Before serving, place the bottle in an ice bucket for about a half an hour..You may also leave it in the refrigerator for 6-7 hours but never under any circumstance, put it in the freezer…serve chilled but not ice cold..It is recommended you tip the bottle slightly as you open it so that it will not spill over and that when pouring, you tip the flutes as well..Do not overfill the flutes-filling each one half way will allow the champagne to remain cold and release it’s full aroma.

A Votre Sante’ To Your Health !


Congratulations Bryan on your outstanding accomplishment, 2000 reviews..I hope to be around to read your next 2000... To read all the entry‘s in this write/off go Here…and since I just recently hosted my own write/off, Fabulous French Finds, I will add this review to that write/off too…Here is where you can find all those most interesting reviews.


Outstanding chateau where we stayed: Les Boyer de Crayeres
http://www.epinions.com/content_50705305220


Happy And Safe Travels


Many thanks to SurgRN911 for adding this category so quickly for me.



Recommended: Yes

Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime