Paradores

Some people may very well be asking the pertinent question: "What on Earth is a Parador, when it's at home?" It's very much at home, actually, and this particular one has happily been sitting atop a mountain overlooking the town of Jaen in Spain for round about 800 years, and is still very much in good nick.

The idea of the Parador was conceived in 1910 and, after a lengthy gestation period of some 18 years, was finally born in 1928, four days after young Josh's birth date and some 73 years before his birth year. That's if my Maths is correct. It seldom is!

Rather like the world-wide-web in its raison-d'etre, but forming a somewhat Spanish microcosm of the same, the Paradores successfully seek to form a network of hotels (mostly of four-star standard) which serve two very important functions.

Firstly, they co-exist in a government-owned kind of way so that travellers can travel around the country knowing that a very comfortable overnight stay is available after the one they have just enjoyed.

Secondly - and far more importantly - Paradores tend to be historical buildings of hugely significant importance that might, otherwise, have fallen to pieces. Why, for instance, allow a 13th century castle to fall into disrepair when you could, instead, turn it into a thoroughly decent 4-star hotel and, at the same time, make it pay for itself? English Heritage / National Trust take note!

Jaen

Jaen is a fairly large town, and it seems to be of some local importance. I'm the first to confess that I'd never ever actually heard of it before booking a room at its Parador en route from Madrid to Nerja on the Costa del Sol. We approached it, anyway, on the main road from Madrid, heading for the Costa del Sol, and all roads seem to head for Cordoba or Granada. Leaving Cordoba aside for one moment, I can well imagine a really hearty punch-up twixt the managers of the Paradores at Jaen and Granada - were the title of the Best Parador in Spain actually to be made into some kind of competition. Either could probably lift the cup of victory high aloft with pride, but Jaen's was the most convenient for our paticular needs. And superb, it most certainly was! Oh yes!

Approach the town and you'll see a mountain. At the top of it, you'll see the Parador - you simply cannot miss it; it dominates the town majestically. And once you're in town, if you ever happen to lose sight of the road signs, just keep heading up. And up. And up, because there's precious little above the Parador, apart from a clear blue sky and a burning sun. Yep, it's warm!

Castillo de Santa Catalina

Having hit Jaen itself, we headed for the Parador. It was getting late and the light was fading. Concentrating on driving on the "wrong" (ie right) side of the road in a hire car with a fairly large insurance excess, and negotiating teenaged nutters on screaming mopeds, we approached the Parador. "The only way is up" reverberated through my head, as we negotiated our way up the curvy ascent to the castle. We curved. We climbed. Ever upwards.

It had been a long drive and (due to air traffic problems at Heathrow and baggage problems at Madrid) our arrival was rather later than had been planned. It was about 21:45 when we finally turned through the last ascending curve and through the resplendent gate of the Parador de Jaen Castillo de whatever. Its full title had completely eluded me; I'd become absolutely overwhelmed by its sheer, utter beauty.

4 year old Josh was appointed "King of the Castle", and it kind of kept him quiet in an overwhelmed kind of way; he actually seemed to be wary about accepting the gravity of the responsibility involved. And what an absolutely fantastic bloomin' castle, and in such superb condition, this was! 13th Century, perched atop a rock overlooking the town and the surrounding mountains. Whilst I looked on at the Spanish hosts adoring El Nino (because they are really, really great with kids), I couldn't help but be jealous at a happy bride who had chosen this utterly gorgeous location for her wedding. Dunfermline Abbey, Scotland, had actually been rather good (it naturally has something of a weather problem, though - or did 16 years ago), yet couldn't quite hope to compare with this. I digress anyway.

It was late when we checked in, but the staff were friendly, efficient and kind. They loved Josh and were very nice to him, and this is very important to us. I had pre-booked our room and had also pre-booked a Z-bed for Josh. My only - and I re-iterate - only complaint is that, whereas most hotels roll these out free of charge, I was charged a whopping supplement of 35 Euro (and the Euro is on a par with the dollar by the way).

Our room was extremely comfortable, stone-floored and air-conditioned. In fact, there was an air of cool about the entire, stone-walled hotel. The beds were comfortable, as was the seating in front of the eminently Spanish television.

The bathroom was large (possibly an understatement) and very well equipped. The bidet lives on, yet never gets used!

French windows led out onto a spacious balcony with comfortable seating and absolutely stunning views. Late at night, the Spaniards were clearly all out in Tapas bars, and I was out on the balcony, listening to their barking dogs. I was, however, totally and utterly relaxing.

I slept really well after a late night out on the balcony. We'd arrived somewhat later than I had wished and I would have liked to have made use of the outdoor swimming pool and possibly more use of the excellent bar, restaurant and common room. They are all excellent places to relax.

Breakfast was included, and - and this is a first - there was no extra charge for "Breakfast in bed". Wow! So we went for that option, and enjoyed the most incredible breakfast ever on our private balcony overlooking the mountains. Breads, Jams, marmalades, meats, cheeses, tea, coffee, hot chocolate, fruit juices, pastries.... 2 trays of the meal I can't usually face. No fee for delivery. No fee for the superb view. I pinched myself and was apparently not dreaming.

255 Euro was certainly not cheap. Had we arrived a few hours earlier, I would have considered it to have been thoroughly good value. I shall speak to LHR Air Traffic Control and Europcar. Apart from that, I can do absolutely nothing else than recommend this hotel. Wholeheartedly. If there's such a word (and I'll invent it if there isn't), I'll Paradorically recommend this chain. Next time...Granada, in the Alhambra Palace.

Andrew


Recommended: Yes