The Tao of Cutting
Feb 21 '02
The Bottom Line An investment in not only a tool, but in art.
For as long as I can remember I have used cooking as a way of unwinding after a long day. Many psychiatrists have extolled the relaxing benefits of cooking, especially in the actions of chopping fruits, vegetables, or meats. I do not know if the benefit comes from seeing an instant change in an object or from some primordial need to destroy an object. Sadly, for most, modern appliances and pre-packaged food have almost extinguished the fine art of using and caring for a quality kitchen knife. The knives that I have been most drawn to are those of the Japanese craftsmen who use traditional sword-making techniques in the creation of their knives.
Before I ever purchased my first Japanese kitchen knife, I was an avid collector of antique Japanese swords and current ShinSakuTo blades of modern artisans. It almost seemed a natural transition that when I started buying cutlery I would look to the Japanese artisans who make their knives in the same fashion. Although there are many Japanese knife manufacturers who make their product like any other knife company, I will only focus on those few that make the finest products in the old ways.
The creation of the traditional Japanese knife is what sets it apart from every other knife available. Instead of pouring liquid metal into a mold, or cutting the knife out of a sheet of metal, the Japanese artisans hand forge each blade. The metal used in making these knives is either solid high carbon steel or iron with a carbon steel core instead of the stainless steel or aluminum used in common blades. To create the knife, a craftsman will take this piece of steel and hand hammer it to shape. During this hammering process the craftsman will continually fold the metal over on itself. Every time this metal is folded more and more impurities are pressed out, the carbon is compressed tighter and tighter, and the knife is given more and more strength through the layers. Some unique and odd traditions that were used over 500 years ago to make swords are held sacred among the knife makers. In addition to the specific way that the metal is forged, even the stages of cooling the hot metal using rice reeds instead of water. The sharpening is initially done with a wet stone, as is any knife, but then is taken further and is sharpened with a special cloth and oil.
All of this tradition and hard work will result in a blade that is reputed not only to be the strongest knife made, but also the sharpest. If properly cared for, this knife will not only last you the rest of your life, but many generations beyond you.
When buying a Japanese knife there are a lot of important factors to take into consideration. First and foremost, one must decide what size and type of knife they need. You also must then translate that type into the proper Japanese term to ensure you will receive the product you want. The most common styles are:
Deba- The Deba resembles a common butchers knife and is used for large cutting of fish or poultry.
Kamagata Usuba- The Usuba style knives are used for cutting vegetables and the Kamagata is the largest style of the Usuba style.
Yanagi- Yanagi, along with Takoblki, are the traditional sushi knives and are, in my opinion, the most well rounded knives to use.
Japanese knives are only honed on one side of the blade so it is vital that you specify whether you are right or left handed. If you are left handed, you should expect to have to special order your knife, and often times, you will pay and additional ten to fifty percent above your quoted price.
When you buy your knife it is necessary that you also purchase three special sharpening stones, a polishing kit, rice paper sheets (for storage), and a holder. These are knives that you should not just throw in a drawer or in your existing knife block.
The Japanese knife is a piece of art and as such, you should consider the extra care that owning one of these knives require. There are very careful procedures for sharpening and cleaning your knife. Just as you would not put a Monet painting in you dishwasher, neither should you ever put one of these knives in your dishwasher.
Like a piece of art, the artisan who forged the blade signs each knife. Usually you will see this signature on the top, blunt side of the blade. Occasionally on larger knives, the signature will be on the tang under the handle. In all cases, you will receive a craftsman’s certificate with the knife with what is known as legacy information about the maker, method of forging, and the style of the knife. This is a vital piece of information to keep as, with all art, the value of these knives tend to appreciate if they are properly documented.
Companies that still follow these traditional techniques are no longer common as people look for cheaper and faster ways of doing things.
The brand I personally chose, Suisin, was only established in 1990, and provides many products using the traditional techniques. Their Inox Honyaki line offers a beautifully crafted knife at some of the lowest prices available. Most knives in the Inox Honyaki line will run between $300 and $400. Suisin also has a lower priced line of knives that use an iron blade with a carbon steel core. The Shironiko knives are great for those who want to start out simply. You can purchase a Shironiko for less than $200 depending on the style you want. Suisin also carries what they call ‘Western Style’ knives, which are basically non-traditional knives that are more similar to what most people use.
Masamoto is considered the one of the premier knife makers of Japan. Many of Masamoto’s forgers are considered national treasures in Japan for the artistic skills they posses. Masamoto was founded in 1872 but uses the oldest techniques, dating back over a thousand years, in the creation of their knives. This level of experience, however, comes at a very high price. A Honyaki Gyokuseiko Kyomen Yanagi will easily cost over $2,500 for a new model and into the tens of thousands for models made prior to WW2.
Unquestionably the most prestigious knife maker in Japan is Aritsugu. Aritsugu is over 400 years old and the company descends from what was the premier sword smith in Japan. Surprisingly one can purchase most Aritsugu blades for under $500, however they are known for making custom knives for Japan’s top chefs at prices unmentioned.
To the Shinto Japanese, everything that you do in life is a spiritual practice. Unfortunately in the West, we seemed to have given up on experiencing life for the speed and convenience of modern appliances. If you really need a spiritual escape, put away the food processor, throw out the TV dinners, and prepare a meal with awareness of everything that you are doing. Careful cutting of foods can surprisingly be very relaxing, and when you fully experience the spiritual action of cooking, the meals will seem so much more important.
Whether you want a Japanese knife because it is a piece of art, because it is a reminder of the spiritual aspect of every part of our lives, or because you demand the best, avoid the every day mass produced knives and invest in a traditionally crafted Japanese knife.
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Member: Matthew
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About Me: A Republican, Neo-Conservative, Quasi-Libertarian, MBA. Confused yet?
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