THE HERON PALACE PANAMA CITY, PANAMA
Apr 25 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line An interesting little morning's diversion.
Our guide finished her brief conversation with the uniformed guard and leaned back into the bus, she was smiling. "No problem" she said. "We can walk by the Presidential Palace and you can all take pictures."
We were all on a city tour of Panama's capital and rather resourceful guide had just arranged a special little treat for us all. She felt she owed us something. Earlier we'd arrived at the Panama Canal Museum a few streets away in San Felipe the old 19th Century part of the city. A tour of the museum was an integral part of the tour. However that day it had been closed for undisclosed reasons. Now she was making it up to us.
We alighted from the bus at the corner of the street on which the palace is located. One of the Presidential Guards in black SWAT style uniform then explained the rules to us.
We could walk down the cordoned off street stopping to take pictures in front of the palace and through the locked gates of the interior courtyard. Then continue around the corner and out of the secure zone. There our bus would pick us up again.
However we could only go in small groups of six he said. I was in the second group and while we waited for him to give us the go ahead over the radio we watched him at work.
We could see the ceremonial guards in front of the Palace proper. Like ceremonial troops all over the world, there main purpose appeared to be to look impressive. Uusually for the tourist's cameras. These ones were no exceptions. Later when we passed by the gates they handed out pamphlets on the place and flirted with the single ladies in my group.
The guard controlling our access though was all business. While we were waiting our turn a car arrived at his checkpoint. After checking the driver's papers and ensuring that he did have business in the area, he then produced a mirror on a long pole and proceeded to check the car before allowing it to pass.
All around the area I noticed several young men loitering on corners and in doorways. All were dressed in dark suits and equally dark glasses. The later hid the ever searching eyes I'm sure. Something told me that the small flesh coloured wires coming from their ears were not hearing aids.
Democracy is healthy in Panama these days but it has not always been so as is the case in other Latin American countries. These young men were intent on ensuring it stayed so. There is also the added realisation that this is now unfortunately the norm in the post September 11th world we live in.
The official title of the building the official residence of the head of state of the country is El Palacio de las Garzas, the Palace of the Herons. The building was first constructed in 1673 soon after Panama City was moved to the peninsula that San Felipe rests on from it's original site farther down the coast. Over the centuries the building has gone through numerous additions and modifications including the addition of a second floor in 1922, and then later a third floor.
The building has also served a variety of roles in it's long history. It was originally the Spanish Governor of Panama's mansion. After that it became in turn a school, the Royal Court House, a customs building, The House of Government, and the main offices of the National bank of Panama. Eventually it was designated the official residence of the President of the Republic of Panama.
The building is an elegant three story white structure an is a excellent example of Spanish colonial architecture. There is a central courtyard built in traditional Andalusian style. As befits it's present role and rich history the entire building is a repository for elegant fixtures and works of art.
The building became known as the Palace of the Herons in 1922 when two white herons were presented to then President Belisario Borras by his friend Poet Ricardo Miro. The herons took up residence in the main courtyard and a tradition was established. Although never officially admitted or confirmed, during the 1977 visit by US President Jimmy Carter to sign the sign the treaty with Panamanian President Torrijos an accident befell the herons.
The US security detail in preparation of Carter's arrival sprayed the courtyard with a disinfectant. Supposedly it proved fatal to the herons. A new pair had to be quickly sneaked into the Palace under cover of darkness to avoid a potentially embarrassing situation.
San Felipe juts out into the Pacific Ocean. The Heron Palace faces the waters of the Bay of Panama. From the windows of her office, the President has a spectacular view of the new modern commercial and residential towers of Punta Paitilla across the water. They are a visible symbol of the country's future. Like the Palace of the Herons itself, it is something worth safeguarding.
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