*ESSENTIAL SCOTLAND GUIDES: The Orkney Isles

May 07 '02 (Updated May 15 '02)    Write an essay on this topic.


The Bottom Line Scotland is a world-class destination, but there's so much to see that it's overwhelming. This guide picks out the best of the best in Orkney. Enjoy!

I traveled to Scotland from my old home in England 16 years ago and loved it – so much so that within a year, I had moved house to live here! I’ve toured my new home country with my family quite a few times now, and I never tire of the scenery, the people and the fascinating history.

When most people think of Scotland, they think of the bagpipes and kilts of St. Andrews, but there is much more to the country than that. Here’s one of a series of “ESSENTIAL SCOTLAND” guides to this amazing place…


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Where are the Orkney Isles
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The Orkney Isles are an archipelago of about seventy islands off the northernmost tip of Scotland. They are famed for their stunning natural beauty and abundance of wildlife, including its gray seals and many species of birds.


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The Feel of The Orkney Isles
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The Orkney Isles are green and fertile; everywhere you look there’s yet another Kodak moment (that means you just have to whip your camera out and take a photo, for those less exposed to television advertising!). As on most small islands, the pace of life on the Orkney Isles is slow and the people are laid back. This is a destination for “getting away from it all” and you certainly don’t come for the nightlife.




The Orkney Isles aren't easy to summarize – a vacation there is more about the experience as a whole than visiting individual places. But I’ve tried my best to break the Orkney Isles down (in a metaphorical sense) into four distinct areas. Here are my “must-sees” at each…


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The East Mainland of the Orkney Isles
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This is the area that contains the parishes of Holm, St. Andrews and Deerness. It stretches 12 miles east from Kirkwall to a place called Skaill and 10 miles south from Rerwick Head to Rose Ness.


The View from Tankemess

If, on a clear day, you stand in Tankemess or Deerness, you should get a superb view across to the north isles. This is another Kodak moment and a view that I never forget because of its ruggedness. See it if you can.


The View from Holm

Again, you’ll need a clear day for this. If you’re graced with such a day, you’ll be able to see the Scottish mainland easily – it’s a magnificent site and provides yet another photo opportunity, should you have another film left in your camera.


The Churchill Causeways

Also called the Churchill Barriers, these were built during World War 2 by prisoners of war to protect warships. It took 1700 workers to build the long walls stretching across the water, but they weren’t completed until 1945, by which time the war had almost finished. They are now topped with roadways and link four of the south isles with the Mainland. The Causeways are a fascinating piece of relatively recent history and are not to be missed.


The Italian Chapel

This was also built by prisoners of war, namely a man named Domenico Chiocchetti from North Africa. It’s both intriguing and beautiful and I advise you put it to the top of your list. I love the place.


Mull Head Nature Reserve

An absolutely idyllic 200 acre site with all kinds of different birds - fulmars , terns, shags, razorbill and guillemots to name just a few. It is vital that you go and stand of the cliffs here as well – apart from the fact that the rugged scenery is amazing, you also have a fair chance of seeing gray seals in the water around here (and yes, I have been lucky enough to spot some!).




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The West Mainland of the Orkney Isles
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This is the area of the Orkney Isles west of Kirkwall and it includes Stromness.


The Stone o' Quoybune

This is a four meter high stone standing in a field near Birsay. Now that might not sound very impressive, until you discover that the stone dates from two millennium BC. I visit the stone whenever I go across to Orkney and it always fills me with an overpowering sense of timelessness. It isn’t anything special to look at, but I still rate this one of the best things to see in the Orkney Isles.


Scara Brae

This is a Neolithic town that was buried under the soil for thousands of years. It has been excavated and you can walk around it – just a few feet below ground level. This is another attraction in Orkney that possesses a certain timelessness and I recommend you visit. If there’s a slight problem, it’s that there are just too many visitors and it can get crowded, so go early in the morning to avoid the throng.


The Orkney Brewery

At a place called Quoyloo, this is where they make my two favorite beers – Raven’s Ale and Skullsplitter. The beer connoisseur (as we like to call ourselves!) will be treated to a generous free tasting (ie. as much as you can drink before you fall over) and they might even give you a guided tour if they’re not too busy. It’s a lovely place run by friendly people – don’t pass up the opportunity to go there.


The Unstan Cairn Tomb

Are you sure you want to go here? Right beside the Loch of Stenness, this is a spooky tomb that your kids will hate (I love it!). You are free explore the tomb on your own – no company has bought it up – but be careful down there. All visitors to Orkney should see one of these tombs at least. There’s a larger and more accessible - but not as scary - tomb at Maeshowe.


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Sanday
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This beautiful island lies 15 miles north-east of Kirkwall and is easily accessible by air or sea.


The Bay of Lopness

Visit at low tide and you’ll see the wreck of a German destroyer from World War One. My son is always fascinated by this, and so am I. Have a camera at the ready – it’s another Kodak moment!


The Start Point Lighthouse

This was built in 1870 and replaced an original tower from 1802. It has distinctive vertical black stripes but can only be considered ESSENTIAL if you are in the area already.



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Hoy
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This is an island of 57 square miles in the southwest of the group.


Ward Hill

This is Orkney’s highest hill (1570 feet) and is great for walking. You’ll need to be quite fit to make it to the top, but the views are staggering.


The Old Man of Hoy

A 450 foot high vertical rock stack that rises out of the sea, this is Orkney’s most famous landmark. It’s not great if you’ve got kids, though – there’s a one and a half hour walk to get there.


Lyness Naval Base and Interpretation Centre

Scapa Flow was a naval base in both world wars and this center gives a fascinating insight into its role. With a lack of interactive exhibits, though, I don’t recommend it to those with young children.



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Summary – The Bare ESSENTIALS of the Orkney Isles
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The sights listed above are the ones you really should see if you have time. If you are rushed, though, here are the sights that will give you the best overview of what the Orkney Isles have to offer:

*The Churchill Causeways

*The Italian Chapel

*Mullhead nature reserve

*one of the many tombs

*The Bay of Lopness


Enjoy your trip to the Orkney Isles!


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Useful Websites
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www.orkneyferries.co.uk – this company operates ferries between the islands. They also offer mini-cruises and package tours, but I can’t personally comment on the quality of these.

www.visitorkney.com - run by the Orkney tourist board, this is an excellent website covering current events, accommodation and arranging your travel. Highly recommended.




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Also in ESSENTIAL SCOTLAND:

The North East - http://www.epinions.com/content_2635833476

Fife - http://www.epinions.com/content_2636619908




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