SOMBER MORNING IN RABAT, THE HASSAN MOSQUE
May 15 '02 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line A place for some quiet reflection.
One doesn't really associate Morocco with rain. Sand heat, and mountains are what usually spring to mind when someone mentions this North African country, not a wet driving drizzle. It was raining my first morning in Rabat, the capital though. Heavy sheets of rain coming down, and a stiff wind blowing in from the Atlantic. It seemed appropriate somehow as I was going to visit a tomb and a place of worship.
Located on hill overlooking the Oued Bou Regreg, the river that separates Rabat from the town of Sale is the final resting place of one of Morocco's most influential modern leaders. Mohammed V was instrumental in helping modern Morocco obtain its independence from Spain. during his reign from 1956 until his death in 1961 he laid the groundwork to remake Morocco into a modern nation. He instituted a series of social reforms across the country. New public works projects were commenced, and new schools and universities opened.
His Mausoleum at first seems simple, especially when compared to some of the more elaborate affairs one sees in Meknes, and Fez, and Marrakech. Closer examination reveals it a work of art, the wall made in brilliant polished marble covered with intricate design work. Non Muslims are permitted entry, and one passes through portals guarded by traditionally garbed soldiers.
Inside, one finds themselves on a balcony that allows a view of the white onyx tomb bellow. Discretely in one corner, an old man continually reads aloud passages form the Koran. Like the tomb of another great Moroccan ruler, Sultan Moulay Ismail in Meknes, this is a place where people come regularly to pay homage. it is an important shrine.
Exiting the mausoleum, one notices a obelisk to the north. Below it is a massive square with dozens of pillars in various stages of construction. it almost resembles some immense strategy board game abandoned by giants. This is the remains of the Hassan Mosque, an uncompleted structure that may have been the largest mosque in the Muslim world had it been completed.
The mosque was envisioned by El Mansour another great Moroccan ruler in the twelfth century. construction was abandoned after his death in 1199. An earthquake in 1755 destroyed most of the uncompleted structure and only ruins remain now.
The obelisk was the Minaret, the tower from which the faithful would have been called to prayer. At present it stands over 50 metres, but had it been completed would have been over 80 metres, quite an accomplishment for the period. The pillars would have supported the roof of a structure designed to accommodate over 20,000 people. This was much more than the population of Rabat at the time.
As I leave the mausoleum and stroll about the remains of the mosque, the rain slowly begins to cease. However the few tourists that have braved the elements this day are still solemn and quiet. Somehow that seems appropriate in this place.
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