Thanksgiving, Or, Yet Another Reason to Drink Wine
Written: Nov 25 '06
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Delicious, refined, yet completely without pretense. An excellent vintage.
Cons: Not widely available.
The Bottom Line: Worth every penny. A deliciously soft, fruity French red that dresses up or down seamlessly.
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| mothermeatloaf's Full Review: |
As an unyielding Italian, it is customary to find, in my cellar, in my refrigerators, and in my digestive system, wonderfully-warming, full-bodied Italian red wines.
However, with no patriation intended, I brought the French to my table this holiday season, namely Louis Jadot and Georges DuBoeuf, to sit alongside my Italian brethren.
In addition to the Italian offerings, I purchased a magnum of Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent, 1997 as well as a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau from Georges DuBoeuf, a truly fantastic wine in its own right.
I was expecting my family to scoff at me - or at the very least throw pie - but, thankfully, neither happened, and I do believe the French have found refuge at my table for Thanksgivings to come!
It was risky, as Beaujolais is a most misunderstood wine, but, as with all great risks, the reward was great.
To preface this review, there are four types of Beaujolais wines vinted, with the finest of which rarely mentioning the word Beaujolais on the label. As one might imagine, it can be a daunting task to find the perfect Beaujolais.
Beaujolais Nouveau (which translates into the "new Beaujolais") is the 1st pressing of the gamay grapes, the grapes which yield Beaujolais wine. It is fermented only a fraction of the time as its full and true namesake and is released early. Beaujolais Nouveau is literally only weeks from the vine to the bottle, and this quick fermentation turn-around results in a very fruity, juicy, grape wine. It is released only once a year in the United States - generally on the third Thursday of November - just in time for Thanksgiving. It is a perfect match to the many flavors and textures of the day.
Beaujolais is the basic form of the fermented gamay grapes. Born of the aforementioned grapes, grown in the southernmost regions of Burgundy, France, Beaujolais is a straightforward red wine bereft of pretense. Generally speaking, Beaujolais is best when chilled 10-15 minutes prior to the pour. It is soft and fruity, though a bit more refined than its Nouveau form, and pairs best with simple, robust meals. Wine expert Karen MacNeil calls Beaujolais "meatloaf's moment of glory."
Beaujolais-Villages is a step up from the basic form of Beaujolais wine. In order for a Beaujolais to be classified as Villages, the wine must originate from one of 39 villages in southern France heralded as cultivators of superior grapes.
cru Beaujolais is the absolute Porsche of Beaujolais wines. It is the wine in its finest form. To be considered cru, this wine must hail from one of only ten French provinces where the granitic soil (soil that is ripe with orthoclase, sodium and potassium-rich albite feldspars, and quartz) yields gamay grapes ideal in size, color, and taste. The bottled version of the wine rarely, if ever, bears the word Beaujolais on its label, opting to simply list its province of origin, thereby drawing the admiration and interest of those wine enthusiasts in the know. The ten provinces are: Fleurie, Morgon, St.-Amour, Regnie, Chiroubles, Moulin-a-Vent, Chenas, Julienas, Cote de Brouilly, and Brouilly proper.
It is this, the finest version of the wine hailing from Moulin-a-Vent, I wish to discuss at somewhat greater length.
To the pour!
For the occasion, I splurged on Eva Trio 3part Beaujolais glasses, mouth-blown in Denmark and ideal for fully experiencing both the bouquet and the flavor of the wine. Its contemporary design - a lip angled at a slight 14 degrees - completes the sensory celebration! (Interested? These exquisite glasses are available at www.panik-design.com - but they are certainly high-quality glasses! Keep that in mind at checkout!)
Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent, 1997 fills the vessel with a dense purple, ruby color. Swirling the wine sheets the glass and releases a warming sachet of aged oak, honeyed cedar, and ripe berries.
It really is stunning when held to the light.
The palate is soft and smooth, with the sweetness of black currants vying with tangy red raspberries for supremacy of my tastebuds. The present acids and tannins balance the fruit presence well, yielding to a complex, grassy finish.
I would imagine that this is the type of wine great French chefs drink after a night of preparing rustic, hearty fare like beef and roasted new potatoes, or, dare I say, roasted turkey and fresh garden vegetables. The vegetal complexity of the wine also stands up well to herbaceous dishes heavy on rosemary or herbs de Provence. It does not pair particularly well with any component of a meal that might contain vinegar, as vinegar wars with the moderate tannins found in Beaujolais - or any heartier red, for that matter. The subtlety of the wine is also lost on sweet dishes.
In all, Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent, 1997, a vintage cru Beaujolais, is a fantastic wine both refined and delicious without sacrificing its rustic, utilitarian origin.
Now to learn to toast in French as well as Italian!
In the meantime, Cent'anni!
Thanks for spending some time with your Mother!
And remember to drink responsible this holiday season. The world is a better place with you IN it!
~ Mothermeatloaf
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
mothermeatloaf
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Member: Michael Picardi
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Reviews written: 109
Trusted by: 144 members
About Me:
The road back to regularly reading, writing, and rating is a winding one...I'm trying!
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