I've finally figured out concealers and...
Apr 11 '03
The Bottom Line Put your skin-toned concealers down the sink. Corrective color is better!
Of course, this is a general Buying Guides review, and not a soapbox for touting my brand du jour. That said, I do not feel I can give you an honest review without first saying these two words:
PHYSICIANS FORMULA.
Physicians Formula is a personal obsession of mine. I've scouted around Epinions to see if they have a "What should I know about Physicians Formula?", but I couldn't find one. Let me just say that they are the expert in concealers. Well, to be honest, I have not really compared it to department store brands, because I am not really a department store kind of girl. If you, like me, prefer that your products come from the local drugstore, you will find that Physicians Formula concealer is the best thing on the shelf.
I'll come back to P.F. in a little bit, but first let's discuss concealers in general.
There are of course many variables that go into concealers. Texture, application format, consistency, feeling, amount of oil or dryness, and how long it lasts. These can all affect how well your concealer performs. But in my opinion, the most important factor of all is color. Color can make or break the concealer. For quite awhile, though, it's just been a guessing game of sorts.
Here's the deal. People figure that they need to find a concealer that is their skin tone, or maybe a little bit lighter or darker depending on the problem. Why?! Why, why, why, folks? Why do people think that a concealer of their exact skin tone will somehow fix the problem? A pale beige goop cannot hope to compete with a flagrant red mark or stubborn undereye circles. People apply a little, then lay it on thick until their problem is fixed, which takes quite a bit of time and effort with traditional concealers.
Corrective color is the only approach to concealer that really works. The idea behind it is this. Don't use a shade that is the approximate hue of your skin. Instead, use a color that contradicts that of the blemish in question. That is to say, the complementary color (think back to the color wheels of your art class days! =D ).
Got a red-hued issue, like pimples (gotta hate them) or a ruddy face? Go for a concealer that is greenish in tone. Yes, I really did say green concealer. A good one, however, won't look green on your face, so you'll have nothing to explain to your coworkers. Green really will optically cancel out all your reddish tones.
Is your problem more on the blue end of the spectrum? I'm thinking undereye circles and other bags and sags! A yellow-toned concealer will cancel it out. I keep a small tube of yellow on hand for all those mornings when I haven't slept enough. It works like a charm.
If you have generally sallow skin that takes on a yellowy/jaundiced appearance, or yellow toned blemishes, straighten things up with a mauve concealer. To be honest, I have never tried this, but mauve is frequently used in color correction and many professionals depend on it.
I suggest owning concealers in each of the 3 above colors, especially yellow and green, so that you'll be prepared for any blemish the skin goddesses throw your way.
Additionally, one needs a more neutral-toned concealer to dot on top of the corrective concealer and create a seamless appearance. Look around for a very light, weightless concealer about the color of your skin tone. This should not be your main concealer, just your top coat. Apply it lightly so as not to cancel out the corrective properties of your main concealer. For all concealing work, let this be your mantra: Dot on, do not paint on. Pat in, do not rub in. And, above all, use sparingly.
So color is the first priority, but then there are some other things to consider. People with highly sensitive skin like mine should settle only for hypoallergenic, unfragranced, and very pure concealers (yet another reason Physicians Formula fits the bill). Everyone should seek out a non-comedogenic and non-acnegenic concealer, preferably one that is largely oil-free. Keep in mind that a little bit of oil is sometimes good as oil-free concealers tend to look dry and cakey, and will emphasize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Oil-containing concealers generaly have a smoother finish. What is most suitable for you very much depends on your skin type.
Concealers come in various forms, the most popular of which is probably fluid. Fluid concealer comes in a tube, wand or jar and generally has a medium-to-heavy coverage. It is more difficult to achieve a seamless "invisible" appearance with a fluid concealer. You will also very often find cream concealers, which are much thicker and usually come in a solid hunk of some sort. These provide the heaviest coverage and make a seamless appearance still more difficult, but they are often better for those with very dry skin.
You may also find pencil concealers. These offer light to medium coverage and are fairly easy to apply, but they are not very good for areas of delicate skin such as the undereyes as they tend to tug. Also, those with sensitive, problematic, or very dry skin may find a pencil-style concealer irritating. Nonetheless, if you particularly like this style of application, don't hesitate to try it (especially Physicians Formula's take on it, which is easy to use and hypoallergenic.)
Some, but not many, concealers come in powder form. This coverage is ultra-light, but it is easy to apply and will maintain a fresh, natural look. Those with extra-dry or problematic skin should use powders sparingly, however.
When choosing a concealer, you should consider its lasting capacity. If you are willing to reapply at regular intervals throughout the day, this need not be a factor. But I have yet to discover a concealer that will remain perfect from dawn to dusk. As a rule of thumb, the "dry" concealers usually have a greater lasting capacity whereas the water-based forms (cream, fluid, etc.) will need to be topped with a powder in order to last.
In addition to your 3-4 different colored concealers (wow!) you should obtain a blush. After applying with the colored concealer and topping with a neutral one, I like to sweep on a bit of subtly colored blush or bronzer. This keeps my concealed area from looking too pasty and unnatural.
And now, a word on Physicians Formula:
Every shape, form, and color of concealer as well as blush mentioned above, with the exception of mauve concealer, is produced by them. They are, as far as I know, the only company with a full line of Corrective Color. As you have learned, corrective color is the end-all-be-all of concealing. I absolutely swear by Physicians Formula concealers. I have them in every color and will use nothing else. The raw selection of colors, shapes, and forms is nothing less than astounding. Best of all, every single Physicians Formula product is 100% pure, unfragranced and hypoallergenic; also non-acnegenic, non-comedogenic, and ideal for all skin types. Oh, and did I mention cheap?
To the best of my knowledge, every P.F. concealer works like a charm (and I have tried more of them than I care to admit! ::wink::). However, if you'd like to economize, I recommend Concealer Twins. You will get both a correctively-hued concealer and the neutral skin-toned concealer, each in a trial-sized version, and you can choose from cream, fluid, or pencil form.
In case you're wondering, I don't work for Physicians Formula. I just swear by them, that's all, and I feel that I am providing the best possible concealer advice by recommending them. Of course, there are many other concealers on the market, and I'm sure some of them are very good. But when you browse the aisles, keep color in mind. Here's to perfect complexions and drugstore concealer!
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perfectprep
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Epinions-crazy, fun and spunky, slightly funky, ever zany.
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