Chan Chich - Exotic Jungle Lodge!
Written: Mar 06 '07 (Updated Mar 06 '07)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Superb accommodations, excellent food, lush jungle setting amid ancient Maya ruins, exotic wildlife.
Cons: Getting there!
The Bottom Line: Spectacular Jungle Lodge surrounded by tropical rainforest in a remote part of Belize. 5 stars, and a dream come true for any nature lover!
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Chan Chich Lodge, Belize |
Chan Chich, a fabulous jungle lodge tucked away in the northwestern Orange Walk District of Belize and almost within spitting distance of the Guatemalan border, not only gives the term 'getting away from it all' a whole new meaning, but it might as well have invented it. This is what dreams are made of - 12 luxurious yet rustic thatched-roof cabanas tucked away in the middle of an impressive Maya ceremonial site, surrounded by lush jungle vegetation, and teaming with wildlife.
The setting is nothing short of magical and certainly exceeded all of our expectations. Tired after a long, arduous journey on treacherous roads which, at times, seemed to lead to nowhere, we were almost giddy with excitement when we finally arrived and realized that we were in for a very special treat.
After a hearty and gracious welcome by the staff, we gathered in the Looter's Trench Bar for a quick briefing, enjoyed some delicious fruit juice and received our cabana assignments. No keys needed here. They do have them, of course, but the only time you need a key at Chan Chich is if you accidentally lock yourself OUT, in which case you can retrieve one at reception! Any valuables can be kept in a safe there.
The cabanas are beautiful and spacious. All were built with native woods milled on site. The windows, doors and even the beds were constructed locally and special palm leaves were used for the thatching of the roof which, based on ancient Mayan building techniques, can only be cut during a particular phase of the moon. Our cabana was rustic yet elegant, with a stunning interior, tall thatched ceilings, beautiful tiled floors, two queen beds covered with jungle motif spreads, ceiling fan, and screened windows (no glass) on three sides with thick, wooden louvers. A corner desk with wicker chair offered a coffee station with locally grown organic coffee, teas, and a vase brimming with exotic flowers. Filtered drinking water is at your disposal from a 5 gallon container.
Even the bathroom (although on the small side) is a thing of beauty with tiled flooring, mahogany walls and vanity, a redwood (!) shower, thick towels embroidered with the lodge's hummingbird logo and 2 whiter than white cotton robes.
But for many, the favorite spot is on the wrap-around porch, where comfy cushioned chairs and two hammocks beckon after a day of exploring the jungle. As various species of hummingbirds dart from one beautiful flower to another and brilliantly colored Ocellated turkeys forage in the grasses nearby, only the sounds of the jungle interrupt the peaceful setting. Howler monkeys can be heard in the distance, parrots chatter as they fly overhead, and a flock of yellow-tailed Oropendola is busy engaging in an elaborate courtship while weaving impressive 3 foot long hanging nests in a nearby tree. But I digress....
Let's talk about the food. There is nothing cheap about a stay at Chan Chich so good food should be expected, but be prepared for a real culinary treat, not to mention beautiful presentation and excellent service. All meals are a la carte with a good mix of local Belizean and international cuisine, and the ambiance couldn't be better. Whether enjoying your first wildlife encounters from the dining room terrace in the morning or winding down in the evening over a candlelight dinner to the sounds of the jungle, it's an experience you won't soon forget. Hors d'oeuvres are served at 5:30 p.m. at the bar, a good time to share your day's adventures with fellow guests unless, of course, you happen to be snoozing in your hammock and miss the event altogether!
If you don't want to be bothered brewing coffee in your room in the morning, the coffee/tea station between the dining room and library opens at 5:45 a.m. for the early risers. It stays open all day long and also offers some soft drinks, juices, and water.
Definitely check out the library. Thickly cushioned native furniture invites you to stay a while and make use of the many excellent reference books on the exotic local flora and fauna, archaeology, history, and a variety of other subjects. Especially interesting is a photo album filled with pictures taken by infrared remote cameras (strategically placed throughout the jungle as part of a research program) documenting many of the elusive cats such as the jaguar, ocelot, puma, and other jungle wildlife not commonly seen by guests.
A wide range of activities can be enjoyed at Chan Chich. Over nine miles of marked jungle trails are at your disposal for guided or self-guided walks, you can go horseback riding, participate in Mayan archaeology tours, canoe on spring-fed Laguna Verde, or take a tour of the nearby Gallon Jug farm where most of what you find on your dinner table is grown.
We found the jungle walks particularly exhilarating. Each and every time, the forest dished out new surprises. To maximise your experience, I highly recommend using a local guide who knows exactly where to find that Toucan's nest, can spot the monkeys long before you do, can point out the tiniest of hummingbird nests perfectly camouflaged in the fork of a branch, knows how to identify the fresh track of a big cat and has a wealth of information about the many medicinal uses of local plants and trees. He can make the jungle come alive where otherwise you might see very little. This is a rainforest, so the trails can be muddy and slippery and appropriate footwear is a must. The lodge does have rubber boots but they are not particularly comfortable on longer walks.
Chan Chich is a birder's paradise, no wonder, with over 350 species on the list. But you don't have to be a birder to enjoy magnificent birds such as the spectacular Keel-billed Toucan, the almost iridescent Violaceous Trogan, the Blue-crowned Mot-Mot with its long, tufted tail, or the beautiful Emerald Toucanet, and the list goes on!
There is no shortage of monkeys. Both Howler and Spider monkeys provide daily entertainment, not to mention an often unwanted wake-up call around 4:00 a.m., when the Howlers like to surprise you with a loud, roaring concert while trying to establish and/or defend their territory. Tip: make sure you bring ear plugs! During the day, they can be seen swinging in the tree tops, their often tiny babies tightly clinging to their backs, or you find them lazily stretched out on a limb, catching up on the sleep they missed the previous night!
The kidney-shaped, screened pool is just the place after a lengthy hike or, better yet, take a dip in the hot tub to soothe what might be aching. That is, of course, if the hammock doesn't claim you first! And don't think that there aren't any temptations after dinner. How better to top off the day than with either a night hike or a night drive to maybe catch a glimpse of one of those elusive cats. Lots of creatures come alive at night. A big and furry tarantula the size of my hand and with several offspring in tow comes to mind, a sighting that convinced us to never set foot outside our cabana without a flashlight at night! The presence of such critters is probably one reason that the grounds of the lodge are meticulously raked every day. Of course, Belize has plenty of snake species as well, among them the Boa Constrictor, and the venomous Fer-de-Lance and Central American Coral snake. But we were spared and only saw a small, harmless cat-eyed snake during our nocturnal ventures.
Chan Chich has a fascinating history. The lodge itself was constructed in the lower plaza of an old Maya site and is surrounded by numerous structures, many of which have yet to be excavated. The mystery of the Maya right at your doorstep! It is thought that people occupied this area as early as 700 B.C. but that it saw its heaviest population from 600-850 A.D. A guided archaeology tour takes you to the various sites including the Upper Plaza, which reveals a burial chamber where several pieces of jade, ceramic vessels, wooden artifacts, and some human remains were found. One of my favorite moments at Chan Chich was taking the short walk to the Upper Plaza by myself and just standing there quietly and absorbing these mysterious, almost surreal surroundings. It wasn't long before the jungle's canopy came alive and dozens of monkeys were swinging from treetop to treetop, seemingly unaware of my presence. It was one of those special moments I won't soon forget.
The lodge was built in the late 1980s by business mogul Barry Bowen (owner of Belikin Brewing Co. & Coca Cola distributor), who has enormous Real Estate holdings in Belize. Bowen owns 130,000 acres at Chan Chich which includes Gallon Jug, a 3000 acre farm raising cattle and experimenting with growing coffee and cacao. A farm tour is one of the activities offered at Chan Chich but it was probably my least favorite. Interestingly enough, one of the newest experiments is with a donkey. It was added to the herd of cattle after several calves were lost to an opportunistic puma. Apparently, the donkey's mighty kick keeps the cats at bay!
Amenities at the lodge I have yet to mention include fairly reasonable laundry service, a small gift shop above the dining room offering native arts and crafts, film, postcards, a few clothing items and the usual essentials. For those who must stay connected, Internet access is provided in a small building adjacent to the office.
Traveling to Chan Chich by car can be a bit dicey considering the condition of the roads. It's a 3 1/2 hour drive from Belize City and not recommended in anything but a 4-wheel drive. I suggest having the lodge arrange for transportation which includes a driver! Also, Gallon Jug has a small landing strip and charter flights can be arranged. However, since flights on small planes are very much dependent on the weather, delays are not uncommon.
Last, but not least, don't forget insect repellent. One can barely see or feel the pesky little gnat-like insects which love to ambush the unsuspecting visitor and leave nasty looking round red blotches on any exposed area. To avoid looking like you have chicken pox, wear long pants and a long sleeved shirt and keep the bug spray handy. It's just a slight flaw in paradise!
www.chanchich.com
Recommended:
Yes
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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