In The Foothills Of The Maya Mountains!
Written: Mar 09 '07
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Closest location to the ATM cave system, rustic thatched cabanas, Belizean cuisine.
Cons: None, unless you don't like the jungle or need a spa.
The Bottom Line: Excellent location in the heart of Belize. No-frill accommodations, great for adventure travelers of all ages.
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: Pook's Hill Lodge, Belize |
Tucked away within a 300 acre private Nature Reserve and bordering the crystal clear Roaring River, the Pook's Hill Lodge provides a huge variety of options for today's eco-tourist, regardless of how challenging you might want your adventure to be. Centrally located in the heart of the country and only a 90 minute drive from Belize City, it's the perfect base for exploring wild and exotic Belize. The 6800 acre Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve borders the property, its primary rainforest teaming with jungle wildlife and colorful birds.
The lodge's eleven rustic thatched-roof cabanas surround a Maya plaza dating back to ca. 830-950 AD and some of the artifacts found on site are displayed in the open-air bar/veranda and in the dining room below.
Coming from the northwestern part of Belize, we flew into Belmopan (capital of Belize) on a 12 passenger Cessna, which might be about all the short runway can accommodate. Don't expect a terminal as you won't find one. The only nearby structure is a primitive thatched roof rain/sun shelter, which gives you a hint that Belmopan hasn't quite grown into its 'capital' shoes.
From there it is just a 20 minute drive to Pook's Hill, passing through the sleepy little town of Teakettle before entering the private reserve and rainforest. The lodge is family owned, a hands-on operation aided by friendly local help. The owners are originally from South Africa, discovered and fell in love with this remote spot during a visit to Belize, purchased the land, and the rest is history.
Upon arrival, we met in the open-air bar/veranda, a fantastic spot to enjoy a cool drink while overlooking the lush forest canopy and Roaring River below (Pook's Hill owns 2 miles of river frontage), and watching hummingbirds dart from flower to flower. After a short briefing we were soon settled in our individual cabanas.
Scattered on the hillside and along the river, the cabanas are oblong masonry structures, covered with thickly thatched roofs which extend half-way below the screened window openings to provide much needed shade. The interior is open except for a partial wall which serves as bathroom divider, but there is no door. Floors are pebbled stone, and furnishings include 2 double beds, 2 night stands, a chair and small table, and a ceiling fan. Maya pottery and native art decorate the window sills and walls. Phone and TV are thankfully absent.
The bathroom is fairly large and has a walk-in shower. Other amenities are the bare basics, such as a tiny mirror, dim light, soap, and 2 small towels and washcloths. Some might feel as if they are 'roughing it' here but, by local standards, it's probably considered luxury. Water is heated in a huge cohune-fired boiler (cohune are palm tree nuts) which is located next to the office. It supplies an adequate amount of hot water to all of the cabanas, unless someone insists on taking a 20 minute shower at the expense of the other guests!
Food is great at Pook's Hill and we never had a bad meal. The dining room is below the bar/veranda and a wall of glass overlooks the forest. Meals are served family-style and we found the local Belizean cuisine to be a culinary delight, especially those of us who were willing to experiment a little. Belizeans like it spicy, so beware! Lanterns are used to light the dining room in the evening and, combined with good food and the many long tales of the day's adventures, it was always an event to look forward to. Some of the guest were from Europe, including two honeymoon couples, another couple had come all the way from Australia.
Our first afternoon was spent tubing and swimming in the Roaring River which was quite a thrill. The crystal clear water is swift and there are quite a few rapids to make it interesting. We had a feeling that Ben, who was our guide for the duration of our stay, took this occasion to assess our abilities since he was the one to take us into the much more challenging ATM cave the following day. ATM is short for Actun Tunichil Mucnal which, in Mayan, means 'Cave of the Stone Sepulchre'.
I mentioned the following in my review about Belize, but since I can't stress it highly enough, I will repeat it. If visiting this cave is on your agenda, I highly recommend staying at Pook's Hill. It's the closest lodge to the cave, meaning that you can get into the cave first and have it all to yourself before groups arrive from San Ignacio about mid-day. It makes a huge difference, well worth the extra money a stay here might cost (average room cost is US $200 per night, meals and excursions are extra!). Getting to the cave is no easy task, even from this lodge. It's a 30 minute drive on rough roads by Landrover, passing through a variety of terrain including rainforest, corn fields, orange groves and teak plantations, and fjording the river twice. Once the road ends, it's off on foot for an additional hour, crossing the river three more times until finally arriving at the cave's entrance. The reward is an unforgettable journey into the ancient Maya underworld, as you swim, climb and crawl through a maze of chambers, and are wowed by incredible natural formations and countless untouched artifacts, even some skulls and complete skeletons, many of which are calcified in place. Please note that it's risky to plan on this excursion during the wet season (June to November) since there is no access to the cave if the river is high.
But back to the lodge. There are plenty of 'soft adventures' for those who are not quite up to the ATM cave experience. There are trips to Mayan sites (Caracol, Xunantunich & Cahal Pech), canoeing on the Belize River, cave tubing or a trip to a crystal cave, zip lining, horseback riding, a trip to a butterfly ranch, birding, rainforest walks, and so much more. As you can see, Pook's Hill is much more than just a sleepy jungle lodge.
We especially enjoyed the pre- and post-dinner gatherings in the open-air bar (surprisingly well stocked) when we had an opportunity to chat with the hosts, admire their fantastic butterfly and insect collections, or leaf through one of the many reference books about the local flora and fauna while enjoying a cold, brewed in Belize 'Belikin' beer. The thatched-roof structure itself is wonderful and quite large, with wood floors and mahogany furnishings. The bar tab is kept by the guests by recording the number of drinks on a clipboard, along with cabana number & name. The honor system still works in this neck of the woods! Since days are packed full of activities, forget about any nightlife. Everyone turns in early to be ready for the next day's adventures, even the young folks!
The climate is tropical, meaning each and every day is a bad hair day. Bring a hat and don't worry about it. Everything you own gets damp, it just comes with the territory. I've learned to pack everything in plastic bags so at least the unused clothes remain dry and fresh. Needless to say, no fancy attire is required here. Just make sure you bring sturdy shoes which can get wet, lightweight clothing, bug repellent, binoculars, your camera, and be ready for a real adventure!
www.pookshilllodge.com
Recommended:
Yes
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whalewatcher
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
Reviews written: 197
Trusted by: 244 members
About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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