Tool & Stuff TipsMay 18 '03 Write an essay on this topic.
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The Bottom Line Knowledge is power and less expensive than handymen, too. Pass your tips, on anything or these, on. I hope I see more of these articles in the future.
A friend asked me to write this because she was tired of having to buy this type of information in books or from repairmen.She figured there were a lot of people, who may only know a very few or out dated tips and tricks. After listening to her, I agreed that there are some people, who may have had a change in lifestyle. They may have had someone else doing things around the house, till now. Now they need to learn tips or tricks that they haven't heard of before. This article may keep being revised for a long time, as more tips or tricks will be accumulated and added with time. To what end, I don't know! There are "always " new tips! I figured a good place to start was with "Tool Caring and Cleaning: Metal Tools: Pretty much, any clean oil based product is a great oil and grease cleaner. Some use motor Oil, petroleum based cleaners(i.e., Gas, "WD-40 ", Penetrating solutions, etc...),"3 in 1 oil ", Vegetable oil, I've even heard of a friend using "Tanning Oil ", etc..."If it works, Why not?" It's been known that, clean oil can remove dirty oil and grime, by mechanics, for years. When you have finished cleaning, wipe as much oil off from tool as possible with a rag. After wiping tool, there should be a very light film on the tool to keep it from rusting between uses. If you clean a metal tool with gas, soap or an agent that will dry it out, a light coating of oil should be applied after.Then wipe as much off as possible. It should shine, not run or drip. Rusty tools can be cleaned or made to work by soaking in an oil.Only tools like pliers, adjustable wrenches, pipe wrenches, tools that are not powered by anything but you, should be soaked."Nothing electric powered!! If this does not work, toss it in the trash! It's too far gone! Another tip I've tried, is furniture wax for storing a tool after cleaning. It doesn't dissipate as quick as oil does. It's a preference "thing ". "WD-40 " is just one of many penetrating oils used for getting tar, sticky or gummy stuff off tools. It is found at most hardware stores. Spray on, wait a little bit, then wipe clean. Repeat, if necessary. Loose Hammer Heads with Wooden Handles:If you have a loose handle and head on your hammer,do not try to pound it on. Strike the end(or but) of the handle to the ground. Keep the hammer upright the entire time with the handle perpendicular to the surface you will be striking. Preferably a work table or hard surface you don't want to mar. This will cause the metal head of the hammer to slide down the handle, seating it better. Then, if you can see the wood at the top of the hammer, you need to put a wedge in the wood. A is a small metal piece that can be bought and explained further at most hardware stores. "Please ", don't use nails or screws instead of a wedge! Phillips Screws:This tip is for when you have pretty much stripped the head of a Phillips screw, to where it just keeps slipping and not turning. You put a Phillips style screwdriver, of correct size, in the screw head where it is aligned with the original indents and lightly rap on it with a hammer. Be careful not to over do it and damage anything it's attached to.Then, press in firmly,with screwdriver, and turn. This is a great trick, when it works! Wooden Chairs: Some people don't want a new one. The Chair is an antique or they can't afford another set, yet!Sometimes they don't have wood clamps to hold legs, or whatever, in place, when gluing. I've recommended putting glue in or on the piece needing to be fixed and putting them together. Waiting or holding these pieces till they dry is a pain. Try tying a piece of string or rope around the two loosely. Then take a long screw driver or similar device and use it like a tourniquet. Twisting till fairly tight and carefully lodging or securing screwdriver in position desired, trying not letting it move. You can use electrical tape to hold the screwdriver in place if need be. This is a much better way to wait, till it dries. Squeaky Doors: Instead of using an oil on hinges, try furniture wax. It doesn't dissipate as quick as oil. Spray on hinges, open and close door, repeat till squeak stops. I've taken hinges apart and used candle drippings. It lasted forever. Squeaky Floors and Stairs: This works great if you can get underneath and see their bottom side. Nails are usually the culprits. Floors that have been glued and screwed down usually never squeak. What you want to do is have someone step down and step off on the squeak until you find it. Usually, you will be able to find a small gap between the wood and joist with a floor. With Stairs, it will be between the step and riser. The riser is the face or front side of the stairs when you are looking straight up at them. Not the step or top. If you find each gap, spray a foam filler into the gap. A typical filler would be "Great Stuff ", found at most hardware stores. Try not to walk on squeaky areas for a while, until dried. These are not all perfect, all the time, especially without practice. So please keep this in mind. If you think it's too much for you, ask for help or hire someone. Neighbors can be great,if your lucky enough to have great ones! Anyway, I hope you can get some use from these. Maybe, they will help save you a little aggravation and money, too! For Jen.  |
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