Clarins...sieve through the misleading claims and you may find some gems.
Aug 18 '03
The Bottom Line Know what exactly you want, be selective about the products take the impossible claims with a pinch of salt and you can't be too disappointed.
~~~~What it is~~~~
Over 40 years ago, Jacques Courtin-Clarins developed some products and the massage techniques to go with them in his Clarins Instituts de Beaute. Since then, the products used in the Instituts de Beaute have been sold in the stores for home use in over 110 countries in the world. Apparently, it is the number one beauty brand in Europe. From what I know, it seems to be very popular with the more affluent Asian countries (like mine!), and that is some achievement since we have loads of Japanese brands here to contend with.
~~~Clarins' approach~~~
This is a brand for lovers of plant-based products. It seeks to "combine extensive experience in cosmetic science with many years of Clarins 'practical' experience to ensure the effectiveness of Clarins problem solving treatments." The brand seeks to provide effective, serious (the people there submit each of their products to 86 control tests before it hits the shelves and they do not test on animals) and specific (there is a "Client Card" with each product for customers to review the products).
~~~Why Clarins?~~~
Basically, like many of us (especially those with combi/oily skins), I have tried (almost) everything out there...from the grocery store brands to the most expensive and exclusive (Chanel, Estee Lauder)...
By the time I hit the age of 21 earlier this year, I have, however, settled into a routine of mostly Clinique and Origins.
This April, however, the usual stuff just weren't working. They are, above all, irritating my skin, and causing more harm than good. Clinique is drying my skin (for the first time in my life) and my skin is overwhelmed by all the minty ingredients in Origins (even though I used to adore that brand). Time to move on...
Okay, actually the point is that since I have tried "everythng out there", I will seek to compare, wherever possible, the Clarins products I have tried with that of other brands'.
I actually started off by buying a cleanser (Gentle Foaming Cleanser for All Skin Types). Actually, I had tried this sevreal years ago and liked it. Then I was given some samples to try with the cleanser and when I returned for the toner and a moisturizer, I walked away with even more samples. Well, you get the idea...
The ones that I especially like are marked **.
~~~The products and how they fare~~~
Cleansers
Gentle Foaming Cleanser for All Skin Types **
This is a staple in my bathroom. It is "a gentle, foaming cleanser based on plant extracts of Soapwort, Jojoba and Licorice)." This cleanser contains relatively gentle surfectants and decent amounts of emollients so there is little risk of dehydration.It foams slightly, but it is not the kind of foam you get with a gel. This actually has a "milky" kind of foam that you want to keep away from your eyes because it is especially stinging on the eyes! I learned that this is due to the Soapwort (a plant that produces the foaming action of the cleanser). It is scented (which French product isn't?) but it is quite plesant in a "talcum-powder" way. It also claims to tighten pores, neutralize the effects of hard water and restore a glow to the complexion. I don't believe it tightens pores or adds a glow to my face and I can't comment on the hard water bit since I don't get that here. But it is a great basic cleanser. My skin feels smooth and clean, without that dry, tight feeling I get with cleansers like my previous Origins Never A Dull Moment.
Who will like this? People with combination skins and oily skins who want a slightly hydrating cleanser. It works well for a friend who is getting moderate acne treated with the very drying 10% Benzoyl Peroxide. If your skin is very oily, you may want to try this to avoid drying out skin more with potent cleansers.
There is a variant of this cleanser. It is Gentle Foaming Cleanser for Dry, Sensitive Skins. This is another low-lathering cleanser that has a slight lemony fragrance and is less drying than the one for all skin types. My mother likes this and I have sneaked out some of it for myself. I will, however, reccommend this for normal to dry skins as a non-drying, basic cleanser.
Cleansing Milk with Gentian
I'm on the fence with this one. I realize that lots of people with combi/oily hates this even though it is supposed to be specially formulated for these skin types. I find that it feels better if you wipe it off, and then splash face with cool water. Rinsing it off will leave this yucky, tacky feeling on skin that oilier folks spend their fortune avoiding. It does leave a matte appearance if you wipe it off, but only for a couple of hours. What I do like about it, though, is that it is a very thorough make-up remover. It removes all traces of make-up, even long-wearing and waterproof make-up. So, I use this as a make-up remover, followed by a separate rinse-off cleanser. My combination skin craves a rinseable cleanser in this hot, humid climate. I wish I don't have the curse of having skin that is combi/oily since I'm quite sure drier skin types can just get away with using this as a make-up remover cum cleanser without an extra step.
Toning Lotion for Combination/ Oily skin **
This one I like! It is a green-colored, alcohol-free toner that feels gives the refreshing feeling that my skin craves. Prior to this, I have never tried an alcohol-free toner. (I liked Clinique Clarifying Lotion 4, so you get the idea...) It really leaves skin super-smooth with just the right amount of tightening effect. If you have oily skin but will only use an alcohol-free toner, try this! Guaranteed no sticky after-effects! A toner, to me, is not a must and but since I received a 50ml bottle of this as part of a promotion, I decided to use this everyday. I believe this has given my skin a slightly more even tone. The only gripe I have with this is that it smells strange. Not totally unpleasant but I thought Clarins would have come up with a better-smelling product.
Purifying Cleansing Gel for Oily Skin **
This is a gel cleanser that Clarins only reccommends for truly oily skin, but I find it works for combination skin as well. It is fresh-smelling (almost citrusy) and foams moderately, somewhat like Chanel's Gel Purete but thicker. It reminds me of Origins Mint Wash and Clinique's Foaming Gel Cleanser but this Clarins cleanser is better since it contains Salicylic Acid and Triclosan and so is anti-bacterial. It also contains Witch Hazel, and may be fairly drying for skin that is not combi/oily. Otherwise, it is actually quite gentle. Personally, I like the fact that it foams without making skin dry and tight.
This cleanser is part of the Clarins Multi-Matte range and contains the exclusive Sebopur Complex containing Witch Hazel, Wintergreen, White Nettle, vitamin B6 (the Japanese are really into vitamin B6 for combating acne) and zinc. This Complex is supposed to purify and balance. For me, all that matters is that it is gentle and effective, reduces signs of redness and irritation and does make my skin look clearer after weeks of continous use. It is about as good a skin care product as a cleanser can go.
Purifying Toning Lotion with Matte Finish Powders for Oily or Shiny skins
The name says it all. It has Salicylic Acid so is supposedly anti-bacterial. But I prefer the Gentle Toning Lotion for everyday use because the texture of the Gentle Toning Lotion is lighter and this Purifying Lotion has a tendency to feel sticky, unless you blot skin dry immediately after use. Besides, the matte finish powders are not potent enough to control shine for more than a couple of hours. The good news is that it is so gentle that it never stings skin. Other than that, this is reccommeded if combating occassional breakouts is your priority and you want to avoid a toner with alcohol. Also, like the Purifying Cleanser, this toner is green-tinted so they do reduce some redness.
Hydra-Matte Day Lotion
Most Clarins consultants thrust this in your face if you say you have combination skin.
It smells nice, hydrates effectively, contains the Sebopur Complex and a Chronomat System (that is supposed to provide "made-to-measure" shine control)and gives a matte appearnce and feel for about 3-4 hours. But it is a bit too moisturizing for my skin (greasy T-zone and normal-to-dry cheeks) and my nose and forehead feels greasy after 3-4 hours. But the strange thing is that though I feel the grease, the matte appearance stays. But does it pass the 6-hour hurdle? Apparently not. I find myself powdering my T-zone more frequently. That said, I do like the dewy glow it gives the drier parts of my skin.
This is a good product if you don't have an excessively oily T-zone.
A warning: it contains mineral oil. I have read that it clogs pores so you may want to stay away from it if you are especially concerned. On the other hand, I have never had major breakouts from this and one reason may be that the mineral oil features quite low in the list of ingredients. Like the rest of the Multi-Matte Range, it has a fresh fragrance that is barely noticeable actually.
Ultra-Matte Concentrate for Oily Skin **
Now, if you tell the Clarins consultant you have a major shine problem, she may just be persuaded to sell you this lightweight gel-cream. I don't get why they always reccommend the Hydra-Matte over this. Maybe the name "Ultra-Matte" makes them think it is drying. But it is not. It is simply an effective shine-control moisturizer and it does what it says.
I have tried Estee Lauder's Clear Difference and I prefer Clarins Ultra-Matte. Clear Difference is effective in controling shine, but I can't use it everyday- I will develop dry patches. Ultra-Matte is milder and does the job almost as well as Clear Difference. It is as effective as Origins Matte Scientist and more effective than Clinique Moisture-In-Control and Lancome Hydra-Controle.
This has become my new staple and my only perhaps unreasonable gripe is that it doesn't come with sun protection. The Clarins people will tell you SPF is unnecessary for everyday wear (and the good people at all the French brands' counters will tell you the same thing). Frankly, I will rather be safe than sorry since I have never seen a good oil-control moisturizer with sun protection (if there is, please inform me) so I will settle for Ultra-Matte with one of the super lightweight Japanese sunblocks that the Japanese are so good at producing.
Normalizing Night Gel for Combination and Oily skin
This is also part of the Multi-Matte Range and contains the usual ingredients, except that since this is a night-use product, it is supposed to be more of a treatment product than anything else. It is supposed to neutralize free-radicals (since the skin's ability to ward off free radicals wanes at night so that it is concentrate on repair and rejuvenation). I just think this is a tall tale to make even oily-skinned folks think they need a night moisturizer.
This is a rather thin gel that feels tacky if you apply it straight from the bottle. But if you "warm" it in your palms before application, it goes on just fine. It does make skin appear more even-toned and less irriated in the morning but provides little mattifying benefits. I didn't buy this and probably won't when my generous sample is gone.
Minimizing Blemish Cream (Tinted)**
This is one of my must-haves and again, this is part of the Multi-Matte Range. It contains Triclosan to combat blemishe and is tinted in a realistic flesh color to conceal pimples. I find that a little goes a very long way and it is effective in concealing blemishes. It is the right texture (unlike the Clinique Anti-Blemish one that is just too thick and dry to be blended well) and the right color, at least for me. I have medium toned skin and while the product claims that one tone fits all, interested people should try before buying.
Moisture Quenching Hydra-Balance Lotion
I was given this as a sample since I complained of occassional dehydration. This product is part of the very popular Hydra-Balance Range and seeks to add moisture, not oil. This lotion is for all skin types (while the cream is for dry skin) and lightweight enough for use on combi/oily skins occassionally. But you need to get past the fragrance which is not unpleasant, but is very noticeable. It moisturizes beautifully, being non-greasy yet potent. Much better than Estee Lauder 100% Timed Release Lotion in terms of longevity of moisture. But if I have the money, I will go buy Chanel Hydramax Balancing Gel which is simply heavenly- even more lightweight and hydrates even better, plumping up skin on immediate contact. But for now, my generous sample of Hydra-Balance will do.
There are SPF versions of this product as well, containing the highly effective titanium dioxide. In the States, it is SPF 15, while over here in Singapore, I have seen an SPF 30 version. Both are highly reccommended for normal to dry skins.
Lotus Face Treatment Oil
This is a night treatment that is concentrated in essential oils of lotus, rosemary, geranium and sage. The essential oils are contained in a base of hazelnut oil that is supposed to be the most lightweight oil Clarins can find. it claims to reduce the look of pores and normalize the secretion of sebum.
The scent is heavenly, almost addictive. It actually lulls you into a state of relaxation. The oil is a lot lighter than one thinks an oil can be and absorbs well into skin if you use it sparingly. If the oil bothers you, you can always blot away some of the excess before you go to bed. This product reminds me of Dr Hauschka Normalizing Day Oil but this Clarins Lotus Oil is lighter and since it is a night use product, I don't mind the grease that much since no make-up goes on after the Oil.
I got this as a sample and so haven't used enough of this to see if it lives up to its claims, suffice to say that the English girls I know like this. According to them, using this everyday for a 3 months a year normalizes oily skins for the rest of the year. Now that has to be the best thing to happen to us greasy folks. Between this and the Normalizing Night Gel, I will purchase this though this is much more expensive.
Gentle Night Cream
This product comes from the Gentle Treatment Range and I was reccommended this and given a sample of this when I said that my skin is easily irritated. This night cream is supposed to soothe and rebuild skin's natural resistance to external irritants. It is greasy-feeling but if you are into fast-acting soothing action, you probably won't mind. Personally, I will not buy this since my new range of Clarins cleansers do not irritate my skin like my previous brands do so this Cream will be redundant.
If you have sensitive skin, you won't want to buy this immediately because it does contain fragrance, a known irritant. My verdict is that this may help some kinds of skin sensitivity, but not all.
If you are really keen on this range, try the Day Lotion or Cream. The day and night moisturizers contain almost the same active ingredients and the Day ones are cheaper.
~~~Concluding Remarks~~~
I realy like Clarins cleansers (with the exception of the Cleansing Milk) and think I will simply have to try the One-Step Detoxifying Cleanser soon. They are, in my opinion, of higher quality than that of many others, being gentle yet effective. Of course, what matters most is that they don't make my skin worse, unlike some that irritated my skin in the past. As for moisturizers, I have found one that I love and I'm sure anyone will be able to as well. I have found that it takes some experimenting to find one that agrees with your skin but Clarins do give lots of samples so that you can do that experimenting.
Overall, Clarins products are very usable, and you don't have much to lose because you will be reccommended samples to take home to try. Now, if you throw the question of whether these products are worth the money, I will say that most of the products I have tried are worth the money since I think Clarins has done it this time with the Multi-Matte Range that is more gentle than many harsher lines (eg. Clinique, Origins and Neutrogena etc). I cannot comment about the anti-ageing products that must cost a lot more and have some fantastic claims that seem impossible. But if you are looking for great cleansers and basic hydrators, Clarins provides some great choices for every skin type imaginable.
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