Just For The Heller've It, Put Down That Heineken and Try a Hoch Brau
Sep 03 '03
The Bottom Line A reasonably priced and tasty alternative to the major imports.
If you’ve been following the news lately, you are probably aware that this summer has been a particularly brutal one in Europe. Temperatures have soared to over one hundred degrees Fahrenheit, a situation that has caused a plethora of problems ranging from power shortages to fears of a beer shortage. The latter, of course, being by far the most serious.
As is often the case, every cloud has a silver lining, and for German brewers the hot weather has provided a much-needed shot in the arm for sagging beer sales. After years of watching them steadily decline, German brewers are now working around the clock to meet demand. This isn’t as easy as it sounds, either, since there is a considerable lag time between the time a batch of beer is actually made and the date it can be ready for sale to the consumer.
Despite all this, the Germans are still managing to send crisp, refreshing pilsners here to America, including a relative newcomer called Heller Hoch Brau. Heller has been available in the New England states and New York for about a year now, with expansion to other states possible in the future. The beer is new to Atlanta, a fact all the more ironic when one considers that it is imported by Heller Highwater Inc. of Smyrna, Georgia, just down the road from where this humble author resides.
Heller Hoch Brau is a unique brew specially formulated for the Heller Highwater (get it? Hell or high water?) Company. It is produced by the Karlsberg brewery in Homburg, and named for Joe Heller, who in his capacity with Veltins USA importers was no stranger to the vagaries of the beer industry.
Good marketing is essential to the success of any product, and Heller certainly has it. I noticed the beer as soon as I walked into Sherlock’s in search of a brew or two. The distinctive cans are emblazoned with the brand logo in brilliant gold lettering and accented with miniature German flags. The entire six-pack is wrapped in white plastic in lieu of the more common six-pack rings, with a small banner running across the top. As I said, it definitely catches your attention.
Though I ordinarily eschew cans in favor of bottles, I bought a six-pack anyway. It was very reasonably priced at $6.48, especially when you take into account the fact that these are 16.9-ounce cans. That’s almost 5 ounces per can more than the standard. I assumed the beer would be fairly fresh, and I was correct. The cans are stamped on the bottom with a “Best By” date of September 2004, though I seriously doubt the beer will keep that long for reasons I’ll get into shortly.
Heller Hoch Brau pours to a brilliant golden color with a thick foamy head and a light grassy hop nose. The palate is smooth and wonderfully creamy, with a luxurious soft malty character that is delicate and slightly toasty. The finish is surprisingly balanced and light on hops, not really what I would expect from a German pilsner. Don’t expect the hoppy character of Bitburger or even Warsteiner here.
The accent on malt calls to mind a Munich Helles much more than it does a Pilsner, and the absence of hops is what makes me think that a year is not really a reasonable shelf life for such a brew. All the same, this is a very refreshing and highly drinkable beer, perfect for hot weather enjoyment. It’s also a great beer to introduce to friends who don’t normally enjoy craft beers, and a nice alternative for Becks or Heineken drinkers.
Epinions Criteria:
Overall Rating: Four Stars
Beer Rating: A Solid Performer
Weight: Medium body
Flavor: Balanced
Complexity: Average
Price: $6.48 for six 500ml cans
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