The Western Part of the Western World - Part 2: Western US Coast
Mar 06 '04 (Updated Apr 05 '04)
The Bottom Line Driving along the Pacific Coast is something that everybody should do at least once.
If you're the clueless sort that has just stumbled upon this review in your dazed and confused way, this is the second part to a four part road trip that all takes about 8-9 weeks. It goes through almost all of the Western States and part of Canada, mainly focusing on scenic areas and the outdoors. Sorry, I'm not all that into writing about a trip that takes you across the western half of the US to visit wax museums (although the idea is intriguing). Links to the other sections of the road trip can be found at the bottom of this review. To get a slightly better understanding about what this is all about, check out Part 1 for more of an introduction.
Part 2: Western US Coast - 20 days
This section of the four part trip takes you from Seattle, Washington down to San Diego, California. When you do it is up to you, as every season has some good points and some bad points -- I suggest early or late summer. The roads twist, become narrow, and are at times chiseled into the cliffs above the Pacific, so huge RV's or trailers aren't a great idea (nobody likes to follow a slow moving vehicle without the option of passing). I've heard a number of horror stories about Oregon drivers not passing and creating huge lineups, but I seemed to get lucky and and avoid that. Anyways, for this section be prepared to move slowly, especially in the summer, and just enjoy the scenery of the coastline.
Seattle, Washington to Cannon Beach, Oregon 1 day
From the I-5 you get onto the 101 just past Olympia. *Then you get onto the 8, and then the 12, which will take you to Aberdeen. Aberdeen is also a blah type of place, with terrible traffic to boot (25 minutes to get through one traffic light). Come to think of it, most of Washington was that way. Once you get through Aberdeen, head south on the 101 to Cannon Beach. At Astoria, there is a large bridge that takes you across the mouth of the Columbia River.
* - If you're the laid back sort with plenty of time, staying on the 101 will take you up to Olympic National Park and then take you back down to Aberdeen. It's a very scenic area, but you should plan to add 2 days in before you intend to reach Cannon Beach.
Cannon Beach, Oregon 3 nights, 2 days
Cannon Beach, just of Highway 101, is one of the nicest small little towns on the coast. Most other towns seemed to be more like a fishing village, whereas Cannon Beach seemed like a restful summer vacation spot with unique stores and restaurants. Having only been there in the winter, I'm not sure how busy it gets in the summer, but it just had a feel of relaxation about it. On the north edge of town there is a state park, and I can't recall whether or not it had a campground. The main type of lodging appeared to be B&B's, rental homes and other places along those lines. There are state parks all around, so there's no shortage of things to do for the outdoorsy sorts.
Cannon Beach to Bandon, Oregon 1 day
Giving an accurate itinerary for the Oregon coast is not an easy task. If the weather is nice and you want to make a lot of stops, you may only make it half way to Bandon in a day. If the weather sucks, you may end up going all the way to Eureka. If the weather is nice, don't rush yourself, as it is a very nice area and you'll probably be able to find a place to stay the night wherever you decide to call it quits. I, on the other hand, managed to show up during a weather anomaly when it snowed at an altitude of 25 feet, so I didn't care much to frequently stop. You should allow 3-4 days to cover the Oregon coast, even though it can be done in 1-2 days. As for this section, it's really a case of just pulling off at places that look interesting. A few places along the way that you should try to check out are:
National Sand Dunes Recreation Park - The name says it all.
Heceta Head Lighthouse (N. Florence) - One of the oldest lighthouses, which also happens to be picturesque.
Tillamook Cheese Factory - Tour a cheese factory; now that's a cheesy idea.
Tillamook Rock Lighthouse - A lighthouse on an island, neat looking.
Sea Lion Caves - Sea lions and birds, in a cave.
There are plenty of other things to see and places to go along the way, so just looking around and going on a whim usually works out in your favour. If at any time you get tired of the road, you can take one of the many roads that take you back to the I-5, but those connecting roads are just as bad as staying on the 101.
Bandon, Oregon 1 night
Having an interest in photography, I usually try to scope out scenic areas, and so I came upon the name of Bandon. The town of Bandon is just another town with a few motels and the like, but it has no charm like that of Cannon Beach. However, at the edge of Bandon is Bandon Beach, which has some very neat sea stacks that can make for some delectable pictures - especially at sunset. The only problem was that the winds were near-hurricane force, which took away the idea of a relaxing stroll along the beach.
Bandon, Oregon to San Francisco 1 night, 2 days
Between Bandon and Eureka there isn't a whole lot to see other than a state park here and there, so to give an entire day is a bit much. Going a little further to a place like Rio Dell is your best bet, as it has enough services to keep you up for the night. There are private campgrounds around, as well as motels and hotels. There is also a number of Redwood parks around, which are bound to offer camping.
The second day you should drive to somewhere in the San Francisco area. I stay with relatives in San Mateo, so I can't be of much help here, but I suggest looking for somewhere on the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge, just so you are closer to the main tourist attractions and can therefore save some money.
San Francisco Bay Area, California 5 nights, 4 days
San Francisco is one of my favourite areas, even though it is one of the most vulnerable places in North America should an earthquake hit; but we have Superman to prevent Lex Luther from tampering with the San Andreas fault, so there's no need to worry. Two suggestions I have for places to eat are the California Pizza Kitchen, and the Elephant Bar Restaurant, although there are many other great choices. There are so many things for a person to do, it's really hard to know what to do. Below are the things that I have really enjoyed to do and visit while in SF.
Cabrillo Highway to the Golden Gate
This highway goes up along the coast, without the slightest hint that a metropolis is just on the other side of the hills. Take Highway 92 to get to Halfmoon Bay, and then drive north (you'll go south when you continue the journey to San Diego), stopping at a few of the beaches along the way - Montara Beach was nice. There are a number of unique restaurants all along the coast, but they usually have a wait during lunch & dinner. At one point the highway is amid a very steep hill known as Devil's Slide, which marks where it begins to get back into the metropolis. Eventually you'll come to a junction that'll take you to the Great Highway, which will eventually take you to Golden Gate National Recreation Area, a nice place to ride your bike or go for a walk. Afterwords, you want to make it towards Baker Beach, but I'm not exactly sure how you end up there, as streets are changing names and you just have to rely on your sense of direction. Baker Beach provides one of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge from the south side.
If you didn't check out the Marin Headlands prior to crossing the Golden Gate, it provides on of the best views from the north. There is a $10 fee to cross the bridge going south (free going north), so it is cheaper to do it on the day that you arrive in the Bay Area.
After this point, I suggest you just drive south, without really knowing where you'll end up. I did so on my latest trip, and found myself at the junction of Haight and Ashbury, and then I ended up atop a hill (Twin Peaks?) that gave an amazing view of the entire Bay Area. We were intentionally lost, and it ended up being a great decision.
Downtown San Francisco
The area around Downtown San Francisco is one thing that you must see. I usually pack it all into one day, but it could easily occupy three days. Taking BART to get to San Francisco proper is the best idea, although I have found that driving wasn't too bad either. Since you do a lot of walking, make sure you have some good and comfortable footwear - you'll also want a good map.
Starting amidst the skyscrapers, and head uphill to Chinatown. Although my review of Chinatown is negative, you should still see Grant Avenue (avoid Stockton Street). Eventually you'll end up in North Beach (Little Italy), which has a number of coffee shops and the like. If inclined to walk up a hill, you can walk up to the top of Telegraph Hill and visit the Coit Memorial Tower. I usually head the other direction and go up to Lombard Street (if you want to drive down Lombard Street, be prepared for a VERY long wait). When at the top of Lombard Street, try to look sinister to prevent everybody from handing you their camera -- I had a tough time trying to get my own pictures. From the top, head north (down), and then turn left once you reach the trolley turnaround and go to Ghirardelli Square. There you can find some very good chocolate (& ice cream) as well as a number of unique stores. Afterwards, head back east and go to The Cannery, which offers some more stores, and it is also the beginning to the Fishermans Wharf area. There are thousands of stores, museums, and restaurants along the way, but I didn't care much for any of them. I was destined for Pier 39, which has even more stores and restaurants, as well as sea lions that attract quite the crowd. Usually, by the time you are done there, you have had enough for the day, so you just walk across the street and board one of the streetcars, and eventually end up back amidst the skyscrapers.
Alcatraz
It has been a long time since I visited Alcatraz, but you board a ferry somewhere along the Fishermans Wharf. We were given headphones and a tape to guide us along the way. My memory is vague, but I do remember it being a very cold and sterile, almost scary, place.
Winchester Mystery House
Down in San Jose, the Winchester Mystery House is a neat place to check out. They are $20 guided tours that leave fairly regularly, but you could walk around in the garden by yourself. Like Alcatraz, it's a good place to visit, but no more than once every decade.
Hillsdale Mall
I don't much like shopping, but the Hillsdale Mall was actually enjoyable. It didn't seem to have any unique stores, but given that I was in the area during the big storms of this past Christmas, it was a nice place to pass the time. Another mall that has been good in the past, but wasn't this last time, is the Stanford/Palo Alto mall.
There is so much more to the area, but I still have two very large cities to go through in this section, so I can't even touch on most of what the Bay Area has to offer.
San Francisco to Big Sur, California 1 day
Take Highway 92 out to Half Moon Bay, but this time turn south on the Cabrillo Highway (Highway 1). There are a few beaches along the way, but my favourite spot to stop and take a walk is at Bean Hollow. That usually occupys a half day, so then you can drive back north a short ways and go to Pescadero, which has a good restaurant (which I can't recall or find the name of - but it's the only one in town). Afterwards, continue back south towards Santa Cruz. I have been to Santa Cruz, but it was so long ago that I can't recollect anything about it, but it was a fair size. The Cabrillo Highway and Highway 17 intersect to become Highway 1, which takes you inland for a little ways. The next notable place is Monterey, which is a nice place with some good restaurants. Continue down Highway 1 to Big Sur, but it's a good idea to phone ahead to know if you'll have a place to stay. If there just isn't anywhere, you should have time to get to Cambria or San Luis Obispo.
Big Sur, California 1 night
Big Sur is perhaps the nicest area along the coast of California. There are all sorts of places to stay for the night, ranging from primitive campgrounds to luxurious spas. There is also a wide variety of restaurants, especially for a place the size of Big Sur. Although I've only got it down as one night, staying longer isn't a bad idea. One of the most notable attractions in the area is the concrete Bixby Bridge. There are beaches, but given the topography they can be a little difficult to find. A great place for information about Big Sur is http://www.bigsurcalifornia.org
Big Sur to Los Angeles, California 1 day
Once you reach about San Luis Obispo you'll notice that you are getting closer to Los Angeles, as the towns and cities grow larger and appear more frequently. Also occurring, is the increased levels of traffic and smog. I don't recall their being much to stop for along the way, although some of the towns and cities along the way offer even more good restaurants and a few attractions.
Los Angeles, California 5 nights, 4 days
Where you end up in the Los Angeles conglomerate is completely up to you, just try to find a place central to the areas you want to visit. I stayed in a pink hotel right next to Disneyland, which is where my grandparents room was robbed, but that was many years ago. As for places to eat, I can't help you, since I was trying to keep costs down during my visit and therefore never got anything much better than a McDonalds meal. If you're not a confident driver, you will not like LA at all, and that's all that I'll say about that. Since LA is even bigger than SF, I think it's time to an even worse job of covering what LA has to offer.
Disneyland
I really enjoyed Disneyland, although some of the lines were brutally long and then there would be a mechanical problem that would make them even longer. It's been many years since I was there, and I'm sure a lot has changed (one of my favourite rides ended up killing and injuring a bunch of people). Disneyland is a great place to go for one day for anybody. The California Adventure part has since opened, but I don't know much about it, but you'll find some good information by looking at the listing here at Epinions.
Universal Studios Hollywood
Also a great place to visit, whether you're alone, a couple, or a big family. I'm not too sure what they offer now, but the only thing I didn't care for was the ET ride, which was just boring. I chicken out at the last second for going on the Jurassic Park ride, and I've been kicking myself ever since. Two other things I recall were the Backdraft and Back To The Future rides, which were really good. The one thing that truly sucked was the Nickelodeon show. The Hard Rock Cafe at Universal was an excellent experience, even though my hamburger was about as tasty as charcoal. All in all it was another great place to go for a day.
Beverly Hills & Hollywood
One day we just drove around Beverly Hills and Hollywood, looking at things. However, the van we had rented had an odd aroma to it that always made me car sick, so I added a few nutrients to somebodies flowers along the side of the road. It was a neat to just drive around and look at the mansions in Beverly Hills and well known places in Hollywood (ie. Walk of Fame, The Sunset Strip).
Santa Monica Pier & area
There is a number of great restaurants and stores around the Santa Monica Pier. There was also a lot of good looking people. It's a really great place to take a stroll. It is a busy area though, so finding parking wasn't the easiest thing in the world. Strolling the beaches and stores is another great way to spend a day.
Those tend to be among the main things to do, and although LA doesn't have the best reputation, it offers a lot of great things for tourists. I personally like San Francisco much more, but there are benefits to both places.
Los Angeles to San Diego, California 1/2 day
Basically, get on to the I-5 and head south. It's a major route, so there is a lot of traffic, but everything is well-signed. Where you end up in San Diego is again up to you, as every area has it's benefits. I don't recall where exactly I stayed, though it was near La Jolla.
San Diego, California 4 nights, 3 1/2 days
It's been a while since I last visited San Diego, but it was one of the nicest places in California. It's warmer and drier climate than San Francisco, and smaller size than Los Angeles, really made for a wonderful time. I only remember eating at a Sizzler with a crazy man sitting outside, and a Mexican place, but both were good. Anyways, here are my suggested activities.
San Diego Zoo
A visit to the San Diego Zoo is a must for any tourist, as it remains the best zoo I have ever been too. I came to discover a number of new animals, mainly ones that are too expensive to keep up here in Calgary due to the climate, and it was just a very nice place overall. The prices were typical for a zoo; expensive.
Wild Animal Park
I chose to forgo SeaWorld and opted for the Wild Animal Park, even though I had just been to the zoo. However, it was far different than a zoo, with animals roaming freely around or in huge fields. It was a really great experience, but you really didn't see much of the large animals since they had such a wide range to roam in. It was cheaper than the zoo too, but it still wasn't cheap.
SeaWorld
I've never been to any SeaWorld, largely due to my lack of interest in aquatic animals (I'm one of the few kids that didn't say I wanted to be a marine biologist when I grew up). Nevertheless, I often hear good things about it, so it is yet another great place for a family to visit.
Balboa Park
After a day at the zoo, it's a great idea to stroll around the surrounding area known as Balboa Park, which offers museums and neat architecture. Although, if you have been walking all day at the zoo, this idea may not appeal to you.
Old Town State Historic Park & Gaslamp Quarter
These two places are different, but both great places to go in the evening to do some shopping and eating. I ate at a Mexican restaurant in Old Town, which was actually real Mexican, not Taco Bell Mexican, but I didn't really like it (thin-sliced steak). Both areas were very neat and made for good ways to bring an end to the day.
Golf
There are around a hundred golf courses in San Diego, many of which are very nice, so many people are attracted to the area for pure golf vacations.
Tijuana
Going south of the border was quite the experience, with little kids chasing after us with things that looked like Pez and a number of Churro stands. I wouldn't say it was a pleasant experience, but it was definitely worthwhile and something I'd recommend. It was mainly the shock of going from a thriving city like San Diego into a place where the irrigation canals were filled with urine that caught me off guard. We bought a number of things for cheap, like a few blankets and wood carvings, and they've actually lasted quite well. A trip to Tijuana is something everybody should do at some point in their life. I took the trolley from San Diego and then walked across the border, which was certainly the best option, even though I got a little sick on the ride down.
I was really hoping my uncle would move to San Diego so I had more of an incentive to go back to San Diego, but he didn't, and now I hope something else comes up that takes me back there. It is a great city for almost anybody, but particularly friendly to families.
This concludes Part Two of this road trip. There are many, many other things that you can do along the way, so I urge you to do further research, particularly on the cities. Part Three will take you through the desert and mountains and end up in Denver. Although each section of this trip has it's benefits, I'd have to say that Part Two is one of my favourite areas overall, which I figure is due to the proximity to the ocean and the difference between it and the dry prairie that I live on. If I have missed anything that you feel is vital, please leave a comment so I can look into it, as some of these places have changed a lot since my last visit.
Click below to go to the other sections of the trip:
Part One: Western Canada
Part Three: The South-Western States
Part Four: The Inner-Western States
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