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Beers of Panama Part 2: Panama, Sobrerana, and their Siblings from Cerveceria BaruMar 29 '04 Write an essay on this topic.
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The Bottom Line Best beer sold in Panama? Guinness. Best truly Panamanian beer? Panama. Both proudly brewed in Panama City by Baru...
Panama is a fabulous country to visit, and to make your visit even more pleasurable, plan to indulge in the local beers. They aren't really worth seeking out on an international level, but when you sample them on their home turf (or rather on their home sandy shores), there is really no beer on Earth that could ever be quite as refreshing and delicious! There's two breweries in Panama, both located in Panama City: Cerveceria Nacional is the oldest and largest of the two, having been established in 1909 and accounting for roughly 70 percent of the Panamanian beer market. Cerveceria Baru is the agile, up-and-coming challenger, with about 30 percent of the market. In Part 1 of this mini-series, I told you about the beers brewed by Panama's largest brewery -- Cerveceria Nacional. In this second part, I focus on Panama's "other" brewery: Cerveceria Baru. The Brews of Cerveceria Baru... Across the whole product line, I think Baru has the stronger, better quality lineup of beers when stacked up against Nacional. Panama easily trumps Balboa in the battle of flagship brands, and their Sobrerana, though anemic, is smoother and more refreshing for the true light-bodied beer drinkers. With their contract-brewed rendition of the classic Guinness Stout, Baru has a fascinating range of brews in its portfolio. Panama Over the last few weeks, Panama has been my mainstay. Vitamin P, I call it. Desayuno, almuerzo, o cena -- chances are I've got a tall painted label bottle of Panama sitting close at hand. While the beer is still too light for my tastes on a typical day, on a Panamanian day, its a Godsend. Hops is the key to my drinking pleasure here -- Panama clearly has some hops character, a character thats all too obscured in every other beer brewed in this Central American paradise. While Balboa, Atlas, and even Baru's Sobrerana compete for the wimp market, Panama stands alone as a beer that's actually worth drinking for its flavor properties -- not just its ability to slake the thirst of a sun-drenched drinker. At 4.5 percent alcohol, its also among the stronger beers in Panama, but with its evident malt side, this is one of the only beers in the country thats probably actually brewed to something approaching the 12 degree Plato average that most of the worlds breweries seem to observe. Cerveceria Baru does export to the U.S. and to other Latin American countries, but in my opinion, the beer is not one I would seek out, except on its home turf. If you do look for it, be aware that the brewery markets this beer in some countries as "Panama Premium", but with a paper label instead of the classy painted label bottles that you find on its home turf. (There's also a "Panama Extra", but I think its a lighter version of this beer.) Rating: 3 stars (maybe a touch more, even) Sobrerana 1,000 miles to the north, this beer would be called "Corona Extra", because that's essentially what it is -- an exceedingly light and anemic beer that's long on image of smooth-talkin' good times, but shockingly short on substance if you're the kind of person who likes a little flavor to go along with whatever it is that you're putting in your mouth. Bland, bland, bland. Sobrerana is often described as "smooth" or "refreshing" -- and it is. So is water, but I don't particularly want to start writing reviews of water. Lets just say that if you actually like drinking Corona, Sol, or that Michelob Ultra swill that's currently masquerading as "beer", well, you'll probably be in brewski heaven with a cool Sobrerana in hand. Rating: 2 stars (and only because I'm being nice today) Guinness Stout Not quite the dry Irish classic style that you find in Guinness Extra Stout, but a very nice, deeply roasty, and thoroughly flavorful dark beer, nonetheless. This is easily the hands-down best beer brewed in Panama, even if it is a foreign label contract beer. Next time I go to Panama, I'm bringing me a couple bottles of Guinness Extra from the U.S. so I can do a true side-by-side comparison. Even without the bottle in front of me though, its clear that the Panamanian rendition is sweeter and stronger tasting than the soft, slightly sour, dry roast flavor of a classic Guinness. A fascinating brew, and one that I'd be buying by the case if I lived in this part of the world. Rating: 4 stars Malta del Baru and Super Malta Are you familiar with "malta"? It's not a true beer, since its more of a no (or low) alcohol concoction. In the U.S., you can buy malta in most grocery stores (look for Goya Malta in the mexican food aisle). Malta is a dark beverage. It starts its life like beer, with a mashing process to extract sugars from malt, and is then boiled like beer -- but with extensive additions of cane sugar. Some brands of malta leave it at that, but at Baru, the malta is also hopped, just like their beers. Rating: 1-1/2 stars Bottom Line... LOVE icy cold Panama beer while hanging out by the pool or beach. LOVE sipping cool Guinness while sitting in the ritzy harbor front restaurants and nightclubs along the Amador Causeway. Can even stand having the occasional light, smooth, refreshing Sobrerana thrust into my hands when the sun beats on me mercilessly. Overall, I like the Baru beers better than the Nacional beers. There's exceptions though -- I'd be happier with a Balboa than a Sobrerana, but fortunately for me, ALL Baru and Nacional brands are available just about everywhere. And if you get tired of those, you can work your way into the imported brands (and by the way, Baru is the importer for Warsteiner -- one of Germany's most popular pilsner lagers. There is no excuse to be thirsty! Until next time, see you on the beach. I'll be drinking whatever the local beers might be, and chances are, I'll be lovin' every sip! Salud! Intricately Related Reading... Beers of Panama, Part I: Balboa, Atlas, and Their Sibling Brews from Cerveceria Nacional  |
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