TRAVEL BY TUK TUK: GETTING AROUND BANGKOK
May 14 '04 (Updated May 09 '05)
The Bottom Line There is a lot to see and do in Bangkok. The trick is getting around to see and do it all.
Bangkok is a seething modern metropolis of some 11-12 million people. First time visitors to Thailand's capital city may be forgiven for the fact that it seems as those everyone of those 11-12 million owns or has access to a car, truck, or some other type of wheeled vehicle. Furthermore that everyone of them it seems uses that vehicle 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, on Bangkok's long suffering and congested streets.
Bangkok's rush hour traffic jams are famous or perhaps infamous. A government study in the early 1990’s showed that 82% of the city's journeys were by bus, car motorbike or taxi, and average vehicle speeds in the centre of the city dropped to as low as 10km/h (6mph). Having been stuck in a Bangkok rush hour traffic jam myself on a couple of occasions, I find the speed quoted a trifle optimistic, our taxi was passed by an old lady on the sidewalk, in a walker.
Mind timing is everything. An early morning run from the hotel strip on Sukhumvit Road to the Airport on the expressway may take only 20-30 minutes. The same trip in the middle of late afternoon rush hour, based on our experience was well over two hours. Mind we had a less than aggressive taxi driver, although he did keep the meter running.
The local citizens of Bangkok seem to shrug their collective shoulders and just deal with it. For the visitor however, a successful stay in the city does involve some planning in how to get around. A lot of it has to do with how long one intends to stay there and what you want to do, shop, sight see, and/or enjoy the "ahem" nightlife. A little knowledge and planning can ensure you spend as little time as possible "stuck in traffic."
Many of the attractions, the magnificent temples and royal palaces are located in Khosan and Rattanakosin, the older part of the city located in a bulge of land that is surrounded by a curve of the Chaopraya River. South of this area are the Indian and Chinese sections, well known for their abundance of cheap shopping and small back packers style accommodations. Near here is the famous Patpong Night Market, where just about anything you can imagine is for sale.
There are a few upscale hotels along the river, but the majority of budget and moderate accommodations is to the east along near Siam Square and along Sukhumvit Road. Sukhumvit is also one of the main shopping and entertainment districts. The trick is getting from one of these areas to another, quickly and easily.
Walking is probably not a good idea. The distance from Sukhumvit to Khosan and Rattanakosin is only a little over five kilometres, but in Bangkok that's still too far to walk. The heat, humidity and more importantly the smog and pollution that plagues the city, remember all those cars, quickly rule this out as an option. That is at least during the daytime. Things are a little more bearable after the sun goes down.
Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap here, but during the peak traffic hours they are again not a good option for long distances. That is unless your idea of a vacation is sitting in the back of a compact car, watching pedestrians speed by while the meter keeps clicking over and over and the driver sits and shrugs his shoulders. It should be noted taxi drivers can and do charge extra if you choose to use the elevated expressways to cover the tolls.
Renting your own car is also not recommended. That is unless you're a regular on the Formula 500 circuit.
Bangkok like most major cities does have a public transit system. This includes extensive bus routes that connect just about every part of the city. Again this is not a good option for the visitor with limited time on their hands. The buses just become bigger, cheaper, more crowded, and less comfortable version of the taxi when they become stuck in traffic.
Part of the public transit system though is effective; the Bangkok elevated rail system, or "BTS Skytrain." that opened in 1999. It consists of two major routes, the Sukhumvit and Silom Lines, with 23 kilometres of track and nineteen stations including an interchange at Central Station (Siam Square). The three car trains run daily 6:00am to 12:00 midnight.
The system is easy to use, and totally automated, with vending machines dispensing the tickets. One simply picks the destination on the interactive map, and deposits the fare. Fares range from 10 to 45 Baht (30 cents to $1.50), based on the distance travelled. A plastic ticket is dispensed which is then swiped at the turnstile, retained and again deposited at the exit turnstile.
Attendants are available in all stations to provide change and answer questions, although don't count on most them speaking English. For those staying in Bangkok for any length of time there are multi use passes available. All signs in the stations are in Thai and English.
Because the BTS is elevated it has two advantages. First you ride above and not become stuck in the rush hour traffic. Secondly the stations and the trains themselves offer good vantage points to view the city.
The BTS is not perfect though. The Sukhumvit Line does not extend all the way to the airport, which means that arriving and departing visitors are left with the taxi/bus option and the possibility of enduring traffic jams depending on the time of day. Neither line reaches into the older part of the city where as noted most of the attractions are located. The Silom line does reach the Chaopraya River at the Sathorn Bridge and the both lines do run along, or rather above Sukhumvit Road and the city centre.
There are plans are in the works to expand the system over the next few years. In addition and ambitious subway system has been constructed to supplement the BTS. The first of two lines, the Blue Line with 19 stations is scheduled to open in late 2004, although there have been several delays already.
Once it is in operation extension of the Blue Line of a further 18 stations is planned for and should be completed and operational by 2010. A second "Orange Line" of 28 stations is also due to be constructed and operating by 2017. When completed they will cover most of the city including tunnels under the Chaopraya River to service the western parts of the city.
Another way to get around is to use the river itself. Ferries ply up and down the Chaopraya on a regular basis. In addition to being a easy way to get around if only in one direction, the ferries also offer and excellent way to see many of the temples that line the river banks. Ferries run every few minutes and the cost is minimal, usually about 10 Baht (30 cents) per person. Just be careful getting on and off as the stop at the docks is quite short, everyone tries to exit or enter at the same time and there are no guardrails.
Be careful of individuals near the water's edge who'll try to "sell" you tickets for the ferries. Fares are collected on board. What's being sold is a trip or more likely a river tour in a private boat.
Most of these boats are the famous long tailed boats. Narrow fragile looking craft with outboard motors and propellers attached to long poles, hence the name.
In addition to plying up and down the river they also can be found on some of the canals. There are several canals in the city. Most of these narrow waterways run east from the river towards the centre of Bangkok and beyond. They offer another quicker if somewhat smellier, due to the polluted waters, alternative to the jammed roadways.
Often it is faster to use a combination of modes of transport and a roundabout way to get somewhere rather than what appears to be the shortest distance on a map.
For example it’s only six kilometres in a straight line from the Grand Palace to Siam Square. However in rush hour it might be faster to take a ferry from the dock near the Palace downriver to the Sathorn Bridge, five kilometres, and then board the BTR at Saphan Taksin Station and ride the Silom Line up to Siam Square Station, another six kilometres.
Finally there is one other way to get around Bangkok, and as I feel it’s the best way, I’ve saved it for last. These are the tuk tuks. A tuk tuk is a Thai innovation. It’s basically a small gasoline engine scooter that has been modified. There are two wheels instead of one and a small bench seat has been added to this motorized tricycle that can carry two or in a pinch three passengers. I’ve even seen and ridden in a stretch tuk tuk that has two rows of seats and can carry four or five passengers. A canopy roof and a colourful paint scheme complete the description of your average tuk tuk.
Small, fast and manoeuvrable the tuk tuks are the perfect solution to Bangkok’s traffic woes. This is matched by the fearless attitude of their drivers. Unlike most of the Bangkok taxi drivers I met, the average tuk tuk driver probably could do the Formula 500 circuit easily. Mind they’d probably find it boring.
They can literally turn on a dime and weave in and out traffic making for a somewhat thrilling ride. When traffic comes to a halt and the taxi or bus driver pulls out his newspaper, the tuk tuk driver looks for a new route or a short cut. This can involve circling back, driving on the sidewalk, down the wrong side of the street, through narrow alleyways, and in one memorable white knuckle ride, I swear through some poor souls living room.
There are no metres and all fares must be negotiated beforehand. This makes the tuk tuk the preferred option for short distances and during peak traffic times. Most drivers don’t speak English but negotiating a price isn’t too hard to do.
I found just pointing at where we were on a city map and where we wanted to go a good start. The driver would quote a price often using his fingers or writing it down. I’d shake my head and make a counter offer usually 10-20% of his opening bid and we’d haggle it out from there. Sometimes starting to walk away especially towards another driver was enough to seal the deal. Average prices for short trips should not exceed 150-160 Baht or less.
Only once was I not able to haggle the price down from the driver’s initial offer. At the night market in Patpong I tried to get him down from 300 to 100 Baht to run us back to our hotel. He saw that we were loaded down with shopping and that as it was past midnight the BTR wasn’t running anymore.
Tuk tuk drivers are no angels. One of their favourite scams is to tell you the temple or other attraction you want to visit is “closed” that day. Instead he’ll offer to take you somewhere else, usually shopping. Unless your idea of a good day out is being scammed at some overpriced shop that will kick back a commission to the driver, then be aware of this possibility. There have also been reports of assaults on lone female tourists by drivers at night so caution and common sense should be observed.
Bangkok also has a fleet of motorcycle taxis, which offer many of the same advantages as the tuk tuks. The downside is they can only carry one passenger, or at least that’s all they’re supposed to carry.
Bangkok is an exciting and vibrant city that has a lot to offer the visitor. The trick is knowing the ropes that make getting around so can experience the sights.
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