Ritz-Carlton New Orleans....The Resurrection of Maison Blanche
Written: Aug 31 '07 (Updated Aug 31 '07)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Magnificent building- restoration of former Maison Blanche department store, handsome rooms and public areas
Cons: All the requisite amenities, but lacking the essential character of New Orleans
The Bottom Line: The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans comes through in most respects. Great bar- ask for Chris.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Ritz-Carlton New Orleans |
The Ritz-Carlton occupies one of New Orleans' grandest beaux-arts structures, the former Maison Blanche department store, fourteen stories (sans 13th floor) of white brick crowned with an elaborate terra cotta frieze. I have fond memories of drooling over the cases filled with costly coins in their numismatic department as a child. The retail exodus if the 1980's proved to be too much for the venerable grande-dame of New Orleans department stores and her doors were shuttered for good in the early 1990s.
Fortunately for the Crescent City, a savior came along to rescue the great building from the clutches of possible destruction and she was reborn as a hotel. To be correct, the building is actually two hotels, the Ritz and her more down-market sister, the Iberville Suites. Except for sharing a building and the health spa, never the twain shall meet, as they have separate lobbies and services.
Lobby
One enters from Canal Street to a well appointed hall which leads to the elevators. There is also a motor entrance on Dauphine Street. The actual registration lobby is on the third floor. Gleaming brass elevators whisk you up there in no time at all.
The lobby itself is attractive without having much distinction. The space is undoubtedly inviting, but it leaves no real mark upon the beholder. It certainly doesn't feel like New Orleans. A few steps into the courtyard may bring a bit more of this atmosphere to hand, but it's still a stretch. You may be lucky enough to find one or two of the hotel manager's parrots in residence at the wrought iron aviary.
There were no difficulties with registration and I was soon on my way upstairs.
Room
In sweltering August, one has the distinct pleasure of seeing prices fall across the city as the temperatures rise. I was assigned to Room No. 810, an Executive Suite. What one loses in the way of a view is more than compensated in terms of space. Nothing about the room was daring or adventurous. Indeed, the ponderous armoires for the televisions almost seemed like dinosaurs from another era. Without them, however, the rooms might have seemed empty. The living room had a couch, desk, another reading chair with ottoman and the aforementioned armoire. Near the entrance was a table with a box. Ingeniously disguised inside was the coffee maker, one of those one cup numbers which don't always make decent coffee. I was pleased to discover that theirs was more than drinkable.
The bed was enormous and had just about every kind of pillow imaginable on its acres of bedspread. I slept soundly under these covers until roused by my wake-up call.
Bath
The Executive Suites boast baths which are about twice the size of those in normal rooms. I had almost more space than I knew what to do with. Twin pedestal sinks of shining porcelain rose above an expanse of white marble flecked with gray. Contrary to reports I'd read elsewhere, there were no problems with hot water. The Bulgari soap must have been expensive, but I found its perfume rather strong. The tub was just deep enough for a long soak after a huge repast at Galatoire's. As for other amenities, there were mounds of towels, mouthwash and the usual shower caps and hand lotions. Anything you might have missed could likely be had by calling the desk.
There was also a half-bath near the entrance, a good idea if one is planning to receive guests. Closets, by the way, were stocked with bathrobes and an umbrella- a particularly helpful item during stormy August.
Dining
The hotel's celebrated original main restaurant, Victor's, has closed in the wake of Katrina. Its replacement, Melange, purports to offer faithful facsimiles of the classic dishes of the city's best restaurants. I was too busy dining elsewhere to give this one its due, but I enjoyed my breakfast there.
The room is large and low, but the skylights above, whether lighted naturally or not, do provide a sense of airiness and space. Breakfast here will also cost you a bit more than at most places, but it was good enough to warrant the cost. I had an Eggs Benedict with crab meat. They get points for their strong coffee as well, though those unused to chicory in their morning coffee may be in for a surprise.
Bars
Of the three original bars in the hotel, only two are now in operation. My favorite was the Library Lounge, an enclave of dark wood paneling and marble presided over by the amiable Chris McMillan. Chris is no ordinary bartender. He takes pride in the re-creation of the long-lost cocktails of the Crescent City. I watched in awed silence as he prepared the famed Ramos gin fizz. He vigorously shook the silver shaker, slipped in the gin and the egg whites and deftly added other ingredients with a flourish, all the while continuing his dissertation of the historic watering holes of New Orleans. This man knows his craft! On Thursdays through the weekends you can enjoy live jazz.
The salon adjacent to the restaurant has been worked over and is now known as On Trois. I didn't really go in there much, but there was a jazz pianist hard at work. The space is attractive enough, but still suggests an afterthought which one passes through on the way to the restaurant.
The French Quarter Bar, a good looking room with brightly burnished wood floors, appears to have been closed, at least until business picks up enough to warrant its existence.
Maison Orleans
The adjacent S.H.Kress building has been converted into the Maison Orleans, once an ultra-luxurious hotel within the larger hotel. Since Katrina, it has been re-formatted into the Ritz-Carlton Club with the usual requisite amenities. Unfortunately for me, this section of the hotel was under renovation during this very slow period. I shall have to return in order to sample its amenities. Suffice to say that the usual buffet through the day will return drenched in rivers of champagne.
Spa
The hotel has recently invested millions in the rebuilding of the spa and health club. The entrance is actually on Canal Street, so in order to reach it from the hotel, you will have to wend your way through a number of corridors. A trail of breadcrumbs might be helpful if you plan to return.
Much of what has been previously written about the hotel and spa will suggest that use of these premises is free to guests of the hotel. This is not strictly true, as only those who book spa treatments are accorded free use of the place. Otherwise, a $25.00 charge will apply.
The steam room didn't appear to work at first, but after playing with the dials, I was able to coax it up to frightening temperatures. I was soon scalded pink and happily returned to the fluffy bathrobe they provided. I thought of trying the resistance pool, but found that it would entail a trip downstairs. If you plan to use the spa for any length of time, be aware that not all services are on the same level.
Was it worth the hype? The spa was very nice, yes, but hardly comparable to others I have visited elsewhere. I can't exactly place it among the best I have seen.
Service
In spite of what you may have read, the service here was faultless. I'm sure they may have had post-Katrina tribulations in recruiting an effective staff. In fairness to them, I would suggest that they may be back to speed as far as service is concerned. Nothing was amiss. Everyone smiled and I really wanted for nothing. The concierge was extremely helpful and knowledgeable about restaurants and local attractions.
In the wake of Katrina, one is tempted to be more charitable in reviews of hotels. After all, the levels of service previously possible are nearly unattainable in the present situation.
Cost
Rooms here generally go for about $200+, but I was able to find published rates as low as $129.00 for a standard room. When the city is busier, expect to pay $200.00 pr more. If you want the best suite in the house, the Ritz-Carlton Suite on the 15th floor, the published rate is $3000.00 per night. Good luck to you in getting a discount!
Overall
In spite of its location on Canal Street, the hotel is at the edge of the French Quarter, rendering it accessible within five minutes. For those who are looking for luxury, this should fill the bill. Travelers who seek more of the atmosphere if the city may find that other hotels have more character. Whether or not time will imbue this hotel with layers of character remains to be seen. As with all of New Orleans at this point, it's a work in progress.
The Ritz-Carlton New Orleans
921 Canal Street
New Orleans, Louisiana 70112
Tel. 504- 524-1331
FAX 504- 524-7675
Toll free 800-542-8680
Recommended:
Yes
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tombarnes
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
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