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A Big Aussie - Marquis Philips Shiraz, 2003

Oct 21 '04

The Bottom Line Pros: Fairly inexpensive; jammy, dense and complete.   Cons: Can't think of anything flagrantly wrong. A slight bit alcoholic. May be had to find in some markets.

Earlier this week, I was sharing a bottle of the 2001 vintage of Columbia Crest "Two Vines" Shiraz with my wife, marveling at how well made, how delicious, this under-$8/bottle wine was. It is an impeccably balanced wine with luxurious dark fruit flavors accented with a delicate mocha highlight. "A tremendous performer," I thought, especially considering the price. A Best Buy with an excellent rating of "90" according to Wine Spectator magazine.

And then, last night, I pulled a big Aussie Shiraz from my wine cabinet and the experience was amplified and my delight even greater:


Marquis Philips Shiraz, 2003
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Alcohol:  15.5% by volume.

Production:  Vinted in South Eastern Australia (from fruit harvested from a variety of vineyards in the Padthaway, McLaren Vale, Fleurieu Peninsula, and Riverland wine regions) by winemakers Sarah and Sparky Marquis. The wine is aged, for the most part, in a combination of new and 1-year-old American oak barrels. This label was developed only a few years ago and the first offerings were delivered to the US market in the fall of 2001.

Appearance:  Dark ruby-purple color; thick-legged and coats the walls of the glass like a liqueur. 4/5

Aroma:  Spicy dark fruit, plum, and roasted cocoa bean. Very fragrant and open. 18/20

Flavor:  Mouth-filling, powerful, sweet black plum, fresh blackberry, with accents of clove, rich mocha, dark chocolate, and a faint, soft, suggestion of anisette. Nothing earthy or vegetative... just a profuse jammy attack framed by sweet cocoa. Dense and complete... but, perhaps, a little alcohol heavy. 36/40

Finish:  Slightly alcoholic with a long, velvety, warm finish. A powerful, expressive, juicy Shiraz. 9/10

Overall:  23/25. Very well made with a personality and a flavor profile that is hard to resist.

Price and Availability:  This is a boutique wine brand that is just starting to develop some buzz in the United States. Imported by The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, California (headed by Dan Philips, is partnered with the winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis). Purchased at Costco for about $15 per bottle ($13.99 plus tax). Also available for this price at The Wine Exchange (winex.com). Shop around... I've seen some retail prices as high as $26/bottle.

Recommendations:  Would pair well with spicy barbecue pork ribs. Rich and heavy as it is, I'd almost want to recommend it as an accompaniment to freshly roasted chestnuts. I think it would make a wonderful pairing on a cold evening in front of the fireplace. Would also perform well as a dessert offering with a slice of Chocolate and Chestnut Cake.


Verdict:  90 - 4¼ stars. Confidently recommended in the under-$20 price range. Not shy, and definitely a wine that is ready for consumption even at its young age.

Look also for the 2002 vintage, which--according to wine writer, Robert Parker--is fabulous: "...reveals a gorgeous perfume of blackberry liqueur, white flowers, vanilla, and a hint of figs. Opulent, voluptuous, and sexy, it is both flamboyant and immensely satisfying. This big, silky, flesh bomb should drink well for 3-4 years. For the price it offers unbelievable value. 93 Points."


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