Indonesian Cuisine: The Year of Eating Vicariously, part one
Sep 29 '06
The Bottom Line ...
Part of my series of essays on my trip to Indonesia Jan/Feb 06
I saw an episode of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservation on the Travel Channel recently where he visited my ancestral land of Indonesia. It's rare to see any television show about my country devoted to one hour of positive aspects like cuisine. Lately, the region suffered numerous natural disaster's like earthquake, tsunami, volcanic eruptions and mud flows. Tony's take as always been his impromptu musings of it's people, language, customs and, notably, it's food. Though I am not reviewing his program, I would rather contribute to my experience with this wonderful cuisine.
The Indonesian cuisine comprises of various cultures. True, it is Asian, however, there are blends of tastes ranging from China, India, Arab, Persia, Dutch, English, Portuguese as well as indigenous influences. It's well known that its 13,000 islands that make up the nation providing the world spices, coffee, tea and other provisions for many centuries. Pepper was very highly prized as to gain actual currency in certain localities during medieval times and subsequently, were cultivated on the islands like Java and Sumatra. Cloves, another spice of import, was only found, back then, on the islands of Maluku, (also known as the Spice Island). The product of all these years of trade is the rich heritage that makes Indonesian cuisine truly delicious or enak.
Sembako
The term is an abbreviation of SEMbilan BAhan poKOk, means in Bahasa Indonesia, nine essential ingredients - rice, eggs, sugar, meat, flour, corn, gas fuel, cooking oil and salt. Not far back in time, most of the archipelago did not have sufficient electricity therefore did not have adequate refrigeration. These ingredients were readily available at the local market and meals prepared on the spot so the upside is your food is very fresh. Whether one is the President or a pauper, one can't rely without these basics. So much so, the past monetary crisis of 1997-98 created price spikes across the board resulting in riots in several cities, destruction of property, deaths of hundreds and the overthrow of President Suharto. Moral to this episode: don't mess with these nine ingredients.
Sarapan
Sarapan or breakfast is a must to start the day. When I'm there I'm usually treated to a bowl of bubur ayam or rice porridge with mince chicken. Very savory and hearty, the meal can be topped off with a fried egg, fried onions and if your daring a bit of chilli sauce or sambal. What's special is if I have no inclination to cook, I can wait for the pikulan (street peddler) to come by. He'll come stroll down the street and cry out, "'rapan, 'rapan, 'rapan" or rap his wooden bowl rhythmically. Carrying his ware like a cooker on one end of a long bamboo stick balanced on his shoulder with ingredients baled on the other end. Other vendors meander about selling sweets like pisang goreng (fried bananas) or lontong ((rice logs with meat fillings) think: swiss roll).
Another offering I had is soup. Soto, a chicken broth light enough for breakfast tinged with cilantro, angel hair noodles, shredded chicken, fried onion oil, and assorted herbs & spices. Accompanied with shrimp crackers or krupuk is a good start for the morning.
Makan Siang/Malam
In most households, a family retains the help of a perbantu or housekeeper. She will prepare the meals in the morning at one time for many who haven't eaten to help themselves throughout the day. That means makan siang/malam or lunch/dinner. The rice cooker is rarely left cold and ready to fill the bowls of even guests that drop by. She will also make three or four other dishes like ayam goreng (fried chicken), gule (mutton soup), or kangkung (water spinach). A popular refrain by many to ask a house guest is not to say "hello" or "good morning" but "sudah makan?" or have you eaten yet? Before you can reply, your host will coyly nudge towards the table and you'll plop down for the meal of the day. Customarily, you can't say no, in all manner Javanese, however, discretion is the better part of valor. Even this custom is almost universal with a southern American hospitality similar to "Deeg ya eat yet?"
If I'm strolling through the streets especially through Yogyarkarta, the cultural capital of Java, I ply through Jalan Malioboro via alleyways and side streets. The dish is gudeg or jackfruit curry. It's young jackfruit steeped in coconut milk blended with coriander, candelnut, galangal, palm sugar, garlic, shallots and salam leaves. The texture resemble meat however it's entirely vegetarian. Almost every street corner has some sort of variant of gudeg so no one comes away with the definitive example of the dish. Like New York-style pizza, you may have to go sample some, if not all.
Jogya, is also famous for it's ayam goreng Mboh Berek (fried chicken). Unlike Col. Sander's recipe, Nyonya Suharti's, a chain restaurant or rumah makan, chicken tends to be free roaming versus farmed which yields a very tasty treat. The dish's is sort of a secret but what I gather is that they use again palm sugar, garlic or coriander, cumin, corn starched, boiled or semi-stewed, and then deep-fried. What you get is crispy chicken with the crust resembling textured lace. It literally melts in you mouth. I've tried to create the recipe with no avail. If you get a chance to visit the city, don't miss it.
In Semarang, another city where my relatives live, is famous for many dishes. One is ikan bandeng presto, milk fish pressure cooked in a Presto® processor. Prepared as is or in a soup or side dish, bandeng is a favorite to many here and abroad. Because the manufacturer was very successful in producing and marketing worldwide their pressure cookers, the name presto stuck. Lumpia or Chinese spring roll is also a specialty and can be found at the kaki-lima (five-legs) or push carts throughout the city. The rolls resembles crepes, filled with savory meats, mung beans, cabbage, fried and must be eaten right away - these tasty morsels make for good eats. Finish it off with a dessert treats like wingko babat, gelatinous rice and coconut squares. Mmm, mmm good.
In the next installment...
I'll be addressing beverages, desserts, snacks and national dishes like nasi goreng (fried rice), gado-gado (salad with peanut sauce dressing) and satay (skewered broiled meats). Some elements were derived from a book I'll be reviewing soon - Lonely Planet World Food: Indonesia by Patrick Witton.
© 2006 javajoop
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