Svyturys Ekstra Beer
Feb 17 '05 (Updated Feb 23 '05)
The Bottom Line A column of simple figures on a sheet of white paper prepared by a woman produces a designer beer that can be tasted merely by reading a formula.
Just try pronouncing this beer's name... a tough thing to do even before you start drinking a couple (or three) big brown bottles of Švyturys Ekstra Beer.
This beer is a Dortmunder Export (malty, dry and full bodied; typically less aromatic than a Pilsner) from the oldest brewery in Lithuania (founded 1784). The brewery is proud of the post-communism modernization and production improvements that were implemented a few short years ago in 1998.
It, very oddly, is proud that its beers are products of modern technology--not old world techniques--and are designed "on the white piece of paper in the white room where technologist works." (So the English-translation appears on the Švyturys website.) There's just something very humorous about some of the re-invented/revived beer brands from former Soviet satellites.
I suppose one of the more curious aspects of this beer is that it is designed by a woman. According to the brewery: "Every new taste and feature of the aroma, every unique characteristic created for the new beer first of all appears as a column of simple figures. ŠVYTURYS beer is unique, because it is the only beer in Lithuania created by a woman. Mrs Džuljeta Armoniene, Chief Technologist of ŠVYTURYS brewery says that she can already taste every new beer at the tip of her tongue when she is righting [SIC, yes, 'writing'),figures on the sheet of paper."
Alcohol: 5.2% by volume.
Production: Basic beer ingredients--barley malt, hops, yeast, water... and rice.
Appearance: Medium yellow-gold color pouring with a fair amount of carbonation and a dense, white-colored head of foam that settles fairly quickly. Drains the glass leaving a chunky, almost scummy foam residue that doesn't look quite natural.
Aroma: Malty & possessing a somewhat sweet aroma. Pleasant hop signature with mild floral tones. Not particularly engaging; average.
Flavor: Refreshing when gulped, but not much here to crow about. There is a slight soapy tone that presents itself first, followed by a moderate bitterness and finishing with a slightly sweet, powdered sugar tip and some pleasant fruity flavors of yellow apple & pear. In the end, though, it's a bit too sweet for this style. So, in short: average, soapy, bitter, sweet.
Price and Availability: I purchased a 4-pack of .5 liter bottles at Trader Joe's for $4.99 plus tax and CRV (a California Redemption/Recycling tax). A product of Baltic Beverages Holding. Thus far, I've only seen this one at Trader Joe's. Imported by B&J Overseas Trading, Inc.
Recommendations: A Gold Medal winner at the 2000 World Beer Cup and World Beer Championship, a Silver Medal winner in the following year... and I'm not sure that this one would even rank a Bronze in my book of beers for 2005. I'll classify it as an "Aluminum Foil" contender. Consider a try if you feel adventurous. You can do a lot worse and the price is fair. I like the serving size. All-in-all, a pretty average performer. Perhaps you'd do better by trying a real Dortmunder like Dab (Dortmunder Actien Brauerei). It doesn't contain rice adjuncts; it is less sweet and has more hop bitterness.
Verdict:
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Appearance: 3/5 - average
Aroma: 15/20 - average, not particularly engaging
Flavor/Body: 31/40 - a tad too sweet
Finish: 7/10
Overall Quality: 18/25 - average
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My Score: 74 -- 2¾ stars.
The brewer's website:
http://www.svyturys.lt/en
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