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The Best Speaker Of All Time!Apr 12 '06 Write an essay on this topic.
Popular Products in Home Theater Speakers and Subwoofers
The Bottom Line When it comes to great sound reproduction through speakers...only you and you alone will know what you like and whatever that is...is just fine!
When it comes to sound reproduction...audiophiles make no bones about what they feel is best. This is particularly true when auditioning, reviewing or selecting loudspeakers. Usually, much thought has been given to the process as various reviews, ads and postings are considered by the individual. Seasoned hobbyists quite often end up with the speaker system of their dreams but some do not because of circumstances both in and beyond their control. For those of you interested in finding that certain speaker that is to your liking...you must first consider a few extremely important factors. The listening Room: I cannot emphasize enough the importance of the actual room you choose to enjoy your system...whether it be stereo or home theater. You can conceivably place the same speaker system in several different rooms of size and furnishings and it will sound different in each and every one of them. Some such room comparisons would prove the resulting sound to be slightly different whereas others would reveal rather more drastic changes in the sound. The speaker may basically sound the same from one to the next within the same model number...but NOT THE ROOM! Roy Allison did extensive research on the matter of speakers interacting with different rooms in different positions and completed this extensive research in 1975. He found that many speaker/room combinations created a null in the 150 Hz to 300 Hz region resulting in poor or erratic bass response and overall power response. He also discovered that both room and particular speaker had to be considered and matched. He designed his own Allison line of loudspeakers so that their respective woofers or bass drivers would couple with room walls or floors or both! In other words...the right speaker for the right room! Anyone interested in the now legendary report and man himself should follow this link...http://www.allisonacoustics.com/press.html A further explanation of Allison's report is made available by Thomas E. Young...http://www.noisecontrol.net/follow.html If your room is relatively small...say 8' x 10'...then relatively high output large speakers will impose themselves on you and your area while possibly not achieving their full potential because they crave a much larger than average area. By the same token...a 30' x 50' room would make smaller types sound thin and weak or at least somewhat dull without emotion regardless of price or construction. Do keep in mind also that size and cost do not always correlate with each other. If you plan on configuring your system as a "stereo only" type, then larger higher output transducers will be your only option for these larger listening areas. Here is where "home theater surround" systems will generally allow for use of smaller speakers provided that a subwoofer and center speaker are also part of the package. The 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1 configuration should throw enough sound to cover the rather large area provided that the power response and sensitivity are high enough. In a "stereo only" configuration, high output speakers must be considered. Bose 901s, larger Polk Monitors, Def-Techs, Martin/Logan and Quad Electro-statics, Allison Ones, B&W Nautilus models, Boston Lynnfields, Vandies, larger BICs and Sonys plus many more represent high output models at all price points. One way to fill a large area with quality sound is with direct/reflecting Bose speakers such as the 901s or bi-polar technology using various Cambridge Soundworks and Definitive Technology models...BP series in particular. These types assault the listening room with sound emitting from both front and back sides of the loudspeaker but many audiophiles will caution you that the resulting stereo image will be somewhat diffuse and less precise than typical forward radiating non bi-polar models. If your listening room is going to be filled with sound absorbing materials like drapes and curtains...then it may be very wise for you to consider forward radiators only as these materials will absorb too much energy emitting from the rear of bi-polar or direct/reflecting models. If the stereo is going to be setup along the longer wall, you may want to consider towers or speakers made for corner placement such as the Allison Threes. These types can easily be turned inward slightly so as to maintain a proper precise soundstage along such a wall or as in the case of the Threes...placed directly into the corner as the rear apex of that particular speaker is a perfect triangular fit for such placement. Then again...if corner placement is not possible or at least feasible then towers or bookshelf models may be the answer. Yes...size, shape and design will have to be carefully considered. Then there are your room's furnishings to consider. If the room is heavily carpeted and/or draped...then you may want to consider speakers that have an upper treble boost or slightly favor the higher frequencies. The modern Sonys PSBs, Axioms, Paradigms along with the classic Bostons like the A-70's would more likely to be ideal here. The furnishings will absorb some of the high frequency output resulting in a flatter overall power response. Also...if the room is highly reflective lacking in sound absorbing material, then extremely neutral warmer liquidy sounding speakers like the older ARs and Dynacos along with the modern-day Polk R-30s will better balance the room. The Amplifier: The old philosophy regarding amplifiers used to be that amps with the same specs all sound alike. This idea stemmed from those held in high esteem within the audio community such as stereo reviewer Julian Hirsch and Acoustic Research founder and designer Edgar Vilchur. Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately...this is simply not true and one must consider cost and whether one must go the "separates" or the "integrated" route or even choose an all-in-one receiver. The AR amplifier, tuner and receiver were all built with the philosophy that specs within the audible range were the only ones that really mattered and indeed these components sounded great as long as one did not mind a little amplifier "hiss". However...as time went by amps from the high end such as the Belles, Parasounds, Adcoms, Harman Kardons, Yamahas, Nads and others proved that great sounding amps with frequency response specs that went beyond the audible range still sported their own outstanding listenability and unique identity at all price levels. Even great stereo receivers from Sherwood, Yamaha, Pioneer, Fisher, Lafayette, Heathkit and others had their own idiosynchrosies both good and bad at their respective price points and the same can be applied today to home theater types although I personally do not put much faith in mass-produced modern gear. Just as a good engine with high horsepower is to a decent automobile...amplifier power must also be considered as each speaker system has its own efficiency rating which brings us to the next item to consider. Efficiency: The amount of amplifier power it takes to drive a loudspeaker to a sound pressure level {SPL} of 87 db at one meter distance from the loudspeaker itself defines loudspeaker efficiency. One meter represents you lying on the ground at ear level right in front of a speaker so keep things in proper perspective. It ain't batting practice! I am more concerned with levels achieved at about five to ten feet away. Although an SPL of 87 db represents a "Live" concert hall level for Classical music or a Broadway show...it is not quite the same for Jazz, Rock or R&B which get a bit higher at around 90 db to 95 db or so. 87 db @ 1 watt 1 meter or less represents a lower efficiency rating. 90 db @ 1 watt 1 meter or higher represents a higher efficiency rating. Classic acoustic suspension designs were generally lower efficiency types although many produced after 1985 successfully increased their efficiency to around 89 db @ 1 watt 1 meter. Vented and ported types typically sport higher efficiency ratings of 90 db @ 1 watt 1 meter and thus require much less amplifier power in order to get going. However...be careful here as the lower efficiency acoustic suspension {sealed box} types actually boast a much higher efficiency in the 32 Hz region with a smoother more gradual rolloff than ported types! Ported ones may be more efficient in the upper bass but sometimes tend to be somewhat boomy or fat sounding with a faster rolloff at the aforementioned extreme bottom frequency. The Dynaco A-25 was Aperiodic which in turn was neither sealed or vented but did require a bit more amplifier power to get started. This design sported a precisely damped slot that appears to be a vent but in reality allows for little air to pass through it. Its actual efficiency rating was about 88 db @ 1 watt 1 meter. Just remember that if one watt produces an SPL of 87 db. It will take double that power to reach an SPL of 90 db. Four watts will produce an SPL of 93 db while eight watts will be required for an SPL of 96 db. Note that each three decibel increment in SPL requires double the previous amplifier power. In a real world situation...a speaker with an efficiency rating of 87 db @ 1w 1m may actually require five to ten watts of power to fill a room with a realistic SPL. All things being equal...if a fifty watt per channel amplifier proves to be inadequate for a given loudspeaker then one must consider at least a hundred watt per channel amp in order to drive the unit sufficiently....and double that power for the next appreciable SPL! Remember too that we all tend to have a different idea of what is loud and what is not. I know that my lovely wife...Regina and I certainly do not agree on this matter although I myself find that a high end showroom listening level to be a bit overbearing most of the time for my modest 8' x 10' listening room. Thus the reason for my also very modest 45 watt per channel Yamaha R-500 stereo receiver. Even my backup Pioneer SA-500 amplifier boasts only ten watts of quality amplifier power per channel. But then again...my Polk R-30 ported speakers are fairly efficient at 91 db @ 1w 1m. And so must you consider the amount of amplifier power needed for your size of room, speaker and budget. While on the subject...I must tell you that I am not impressed with virtually every modern receiver with inflated power ratings well over one hundred watts per channel and don't think for one second that these types can hold a candle to classic designs rated at half the power that in reality can deliver twice their power wshen called upon. And do not be fooled into thinking that these receivers can power your loudspeakers like a hundred watt Rotel, Plinius, Belles or Audio research model. Even a forty watt modern-day Jolida or classic 60's twelve watt Fisher {both of tube design} will sound considerably warmer and easier on the ears and basically embarrass the highway high-felootin' mass-produced stuff by the proverbial mile! So if your budget dictates an all-in-one receiver...do not hesitate to consider those of yesteryear or at least listen and choose wisely from the present-day contraptions. As for home theater...if I ever decide to surround myself with an added center channel speaker and two rears...I can do so easily by just simply adding the Dynaco QD-1 Home Theater Adapter that I purchased over a decade ago at an electronics flea market price of twenty bucks. The doggone thing retailed for $150 and is still available from Dynaco today as the QD-2. It will give me lower distortion sound from my stereo Yamaha receiver than whatever digital modern miracle you can think of. Whatever you purchase in the way of amplication...choose wisely! If your room is large...then you may need some hefty power. If it is small like mine...then you won't. But do choose quality over quantity in any case! Some highly regarded speakers like the Dynaco A-25's and AR 3a's although very natural and extended sounding...have a slight rolloff in the highs. In this case you might like a sweeter sounding amp {like the Parasounds} or one that favors the high frequencies. If your speaker of choice is a Boston or Sony...you may wish for a warmer sounding amp that favors the lower frequencies to offset the imbalance. Again...consider your room's furnishings when choosing an amp. Budget: Obviously...your wallet or pocketbook is also going to play a huge part in whatever loudspeaker you decide on. Just remember that great loudspeakers come in all sizes and prices and I defy anyone who says otherwise! Regardless of your price range...listen to some top-rated expensive models so as to have a good benchmark for your own final choice. Also remember not to confine yourself to the highway discounter or the high priced high end store. Also do not think that that particular high end parlor can't save you money. By the same token...don't be fooled into thinking that the discounter couldn't possibly rip you off. Keep an open mind to speaker brands you never heard of or that have not been reviewed as the most highly respected models in the industry itself started out in this fashion. Speaking of reviewers...ok...at least I thought I was...do not take any speaker review as the bottom line Bible truth. And I include my own in this regard even though I try to be as honest as humanly possible in my reviews. Go listen for yourself! Your Own Tastes! In the end your own personal preferences must prevail but beware of trying to impress your friends and neighbors as they may not agree with yours. Do not become an audiophile freak and tweak as this can lead to personal frustration and despair or fun {depending on your outlook} and hundreds or even thousands of dollars out the window and down the proverbial "drain". Also beware of the dreaded disease known as "Listener Fatigue" as it can come a-creepin' 'round your door right at about the two month mark or even earlier in some cases. This can be caused by pronounced upper bass boomines or treble. You must ask yourself..."Do I want more bass or deeper cleaner bass?" Do you want more highs or natural cleaner extended ones? Do you want to hear brushes on cymbals cleanly or would you prefer a sound that resembles two sheets of sandpaper rubbed together? Do male and female voices sound natural or is there a honk shrill bassy underline quality present? Is the music emotionally involving...revealing dramatic changes in amplitude and does it reveal nuances subtleties that you never heard before like the simple striking of a tubular bell with full detailed resonance and overtones? Also remember that associated gear such as turntables, phono cartridge/arm combos, tape equipment, CD players and even tuners can possibly affect the overall response of your system. A brighter sounding cartridge or CD player may be ideal for a speaker that rolls off the highs slightly. Even tuners can sound different...not only on FM but more apparently in AM response. This was important to me when I dee jayed for AFRN back in the early 70's and taped my shows directly off the air. It may concern those of you who now listen to many of the former FM "Oldies" formats that have moved to AM radio while simulcasting over the internet. Like it or not...the aesthetics of a speaker {how good the cabinetry finish and grills look} will greatly affect your perception of its overall quality. If a model looks goofy to you...you are not likely to praise its performance. Likewise...if a particular design is most appealing to you...then you will also be rooting for its sound quality...fact of life! Just keep this in mind while auditioning your perspective treasure as you are not likely to use a blindfold during this time. Don't be overly concerned with modern exotic driver materials such as Kevlar and composite stuff with rubber surrounds as some outstanding systems utilize paper drivers with foam surrounds. Polypropolene may look impressive in a driver's appearance but may not be to your liking when it comes to actual sound reproduction. The same can be said for metal and aluminum tweeters versus paper convex or air spring dome tweeters. In Conclusion: I never recommend purchasing speakers on-line before auditioning but am aware that some of you are confined to do so for various reasons whether it be lack of time or a crippling disability or whatever. In fact my purchase of the Polk R-30's of a year and a half ago was made precisely in this fashion. However...I had enough knowledge, familiarity and experience {twenty-six years worth} with the manufacturer to at least have some idea of what I was getting although I must admit that in the end I was most pleasantly surprised and quite possibly woundup with the last speaker system I'll ever own! Here...you should use as much common sense as you can possibly muster up while making sure your dealer has a liberal return policy. Bose.Com and Winslow Burhoe's Silent Speakers offer a thirty-day return policy while others offer a seven to ten day period. Don't be pressured by others into buying what you really don't want and remember that it is not always possible to get it right the first time and that indeed it took some of us years to get it right. Also...remember that sometimes...speaker designs that look good on paper don't always translate to good actual performance. Conversely...designs that seem to defy one's sense of what should be on paper don't always sound bad! Each manufacturer or designer will take great pride in claiming their system to be best. In the words of the great rock band...The Moody Blues..."But you decide which is right...and which is an illusion." But most of all...don't just sit in front of your new found love criticizing every detail of its sound quality like some of us do. Just sit back...relax...get lost in the music...and enjoy! In the final analysis...you may very well endup with your own personal best loudspeaker of all time!...P2  |
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by sam-pro
