1998 Alban Vineyards Edna Valley RoussanneJun 30 '06 (Updated Jul 01 '06) Write an essay on this topic.
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Most of my favorite California wines these days are "Rhone Ranger" wines-- wines made by vintners who focus on grapes that are traditionally grown in France's Rhone Valley. Syrah is the indisputable king of the Rhone Valley, and also the most popular Rhone varietal in California, but the Rhone Rangers are making excellent examples of other varietals as well. Roussanne is a difficult grape to grow, but it can produce beautifully aromatic white wines that age well. One of the original Rhone Rangers, John Alban, produces a lush, full-bodied Roussanne that's a must-try if you can get your hands on a bottle. Alban Vineyards sells their wines through their mailing list. The wines are so well received that even if you join the mailing list, there's no guarantee you'll get even a single bottle of any specific wine. Over the past two years, I've received two offers from Alban, and each was for a mere four bottles of wine. I've gotten my hands on several bottles of Alban "Reva" Syrah, but no Roussanne. Then, unexpectedly, I lucked into a single bottle of 1998 Alban Vineyards Edna Valley Roussanne on sale at a restaurant a few months ago. Roussanne was a poor match for our meaty entrees, so we bought the bottle for $28 (50% off the restaurant's regular price) and took it home. We kept it in the cooler until Memorial Day, and then packed it away for a weekend (without kids!) at the cabin. Roussanne is not an easy wine for me to pair with foods. "Classic" pairings are all seafood, and I don't eat seafood. We paired our Alban Roussanne with a simple dish-- linguine tossed with olive oil, garlic, and porcini mushrooms. The Roussanne is throwing a ton of sediment, but we didn't have a decanter at the cabin. We opened the bottle about an hour before dinner. In the glass, the wine is a very intense, deep gold color that reflects the wine's age and maturity. On the nose, it smells like a dessert wine, with butterscotch, honey, coconut, ripe pear, burnt sugar, and slight smoky oak. There's a definite floral quality, too. Alban's wines aren't subtle, and tend to have high alcohol levels. The nose is a bit hot, but the alcohol is not overpowering. On the palate, it's very dry and full bodied. The oak is more noticeable, and there's a pronounced intensity of the smoke and floral notes, with a long, rich finish. This is not the kind of wine I like to drink on most days, but on a cold, rainy day in the woods, it really warmed the soul. Alban Vineyards wines are neither cheap nor easy to find, but if you have the opportunity to try one (especially if it's on sale or on someone else's dime!) don't miss it. www.albanvineyards.com  |
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